Mopar Stage 3 w/toys. Walbro 255lph and fuel pump rewire.
My car has been running rich lately specially during spool up. (LAG) and my buddy said I should switch over to a return style setup and that would solve that problem since I could adjust the FPR at the rail.
Has anyone done this and netted good results?
Could I keep it on PCM controlled boost?
Would I need a tuning device to optimize this?
Thanks for any input. I remember seeing a thread aobut this ages ago but I could not find it.
You can but I've yet to have any experience with doing so. Its an alternative to not running the S3 fuel setup.
A friend of mine OrionR12 on here is running a returnline setup with his S3 w/toys kit. Its on PCM controlled boost and uses all the toys features. He adjusted the fuel via the returnline, other then that no other tuning device involved. AFR's on his car are within a mid 11 to 11.8 range I believe.
Problem I get is upon spoolup I am low to mid 10's then it gets leaner towards redline, like mid 11's... I always thought it supposed to be lean and then start going rich towards redline.
Problem I get is upon spoolup I am low to mid 10's then it gets leaner towards redline, like mid 11's... I always thought it supposed to be lean and then start going rich towards redline.
A fpr with 1:1 raise like what I'm running, rich and just about everyone else is.. would help with your running into the 11's towards redline.
Has anyone datalogged fuel pressure throughout the powerband, with a s3 set up?
If it keeps the same pressure throughout the powerband OR raises at a 1:1 rate with boost...this will be an extremely easy upgrade.
If no one has stephen, I say we put a gauge on the end of your fuel rail and moniter it during your next dyno day. This would also tell you if the fuel pump is getting maxed out or not.
i'm stage 3 and my fuel pressure at wot holds at 68psi to redline. i also run rich at first during woot starting out at 3000rpm then it gets leaner towards redline.
You could have gotten an isolator kit and then run the mechanical fuel pressure gauge in cabin. Or you could have gotten a fuel pressure sending unit and run the 0-5v signal to your scan gauge and recorded the fuel pressure reading.
You could have gotten an isolator kit and then run the mechanical fuel pressure gauge in cabin. Or you could have gotten a fuel pressure sending unit and run the 0-5v signal to your scan gauge and recorded the fuel pressure reading.
Quote: Originally Posted by raul-01
Its taped on for a 10-15minute ride,guys. A quick trip around the block, a few WOT runs and you're done.
Yes it looks a little goofy but its quicker, cheaper and easier than buying expensive in cabin fp gauge or worse blindly throwing parts at it. Too many newbs rather ask someone's opinion when they think they have fuel system issues rather than just test it. If fp is stable, there's no issues. If it drops at WOT, somethings up.
I monitor fp only when there might be a fuel issue--thats been only twice in over a year. Thats not enough to spend $80-$150 on a in-cabin fp gauge.
A good fuel pressure gauge is a priority to have in anyone's tool box. Although I've only used my gauge 2 time in a year on my SRT, I must have used it a dozen times or more on other vehicals.
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This path assumes they knew what they were doing, which isn't necessarily the case"..........RB Racing
I was just laughing because it looked funny with all the duct tape and all. I guess I will try it out. It just hooks up to the schrader valve on the right side of the fuel rail?
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Stage 3 w/ return style setup?
Linear Mode
