Ok, this is for a 1G Turbo R/T but I'll ask here instead of the Org since you guys have alot more experience with the clamps. I'm idling very poorly and running very rich. When I disconnect the MAP, nothing changes. I have several posibilities. Either the MAP sensor is bad, the ECU is bad, or since the MAP clamp isn't adjusted yet, perhaps that is causing my troubles. I didn't think the clamp really did anything at idle vacuum but I could be wrong. Anyone in the Tampa, FL. area feel like lending some advice, lease call 727-492-9528 Thanks in advance.
if it hasnt been adjusted yet it wont cause any problems, you can put the map clamp on and drive around with it, as long as you dont start turning it without a wideband or on a dyno is where it can cause problems, it sounds like a bad sensor to me.
well, the sensor was just fine when I ran all-motor and I have swapped in 2 other sensors just to check and swapped in another ECU to check that. Still no change. I am almost ready to pull the clamp back out and try it and see how it idles. Probably the clamp adjusted way to far one way or the other for my car. I don't know, gonna barrow a volt meter tonight and check and see where the clamp is at now and maybe that'll answer some questions.
the map clamp does not effect anything except when you are in wot. unless you were clamped so low that the voltage is not changing to the pcm at all, highly unlikely.
did you solder the wires together? if the wires are not making a good connection you could be throwing off voltage readings.
But your best bet is to do what you said and check voltage off the map sensor. However, if you have swapped in two other sensors with the same results, i wouldn't think that is your problem. I would lean towards a bad wiring job.
And exactly when did this start to happen? Just all of the sudden, or after installing the clamp, or did you change anything else?
Alot of times people will overlook something that they just did because they are set on the idea that something else is causing the problem. I've been there. Had the same issue. Just installed the map clamp and was having a bad idle. I tried everything and I couldn't figure it out. I swore up and down that it was the clamp. Well, little did i remember, i also had pulled the red line off the upp at the same time as the clamp install. Guess what the problem was the whole time, the red line.
Well, the only real modification to the electrical system was soldering in the clamp. No engine codes either. Took the clamp out and the problem persists but I can't find any loose/disconnected wires. very aggrivating since its the only thing keeping me from boost. heres a video of the car when I started it, you can clearly hear the messed up idle: http://media.putfile.com/The-turbo-RT-starts
Last edited by FLNeonRT : 04-14-2006 at 05:28 PM.
Reason: Video added
So you put a turbo on an all motor neon r/t? If so why exactly are you trying to use the map clamp? You need to get some kind of real engine managment.
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Turbo sohc civic. 252whp sae on stock block running a VF39 sti turbo
The clamp is needed to keep the voltage the ECU sees from the MAP in a range the ECU understands. It has no fuel tables for pressure and if it sees any pressure above sea level, it flips out. The clamp keeps it from seeing the pressure, it essentially lies to the ECU. (And at some point, I would like to install the Megasquirt n' Spark standalone since everyone has such great results with it.)
I think back to a past problem now that caused this messed up idle and incrediblly rich condition and it was a bad exhaust leak. My car needs a down stream o2 sensor or it doesn't run right, well, last time I had a bad exhaust leak, it ran like this. I think theres not enough backpressure in the open downpipe to let the downstream sensor see the exhaust. These less then a foot between the end of the down pipe and the o2 sensor. I guess the only way to find out will be disconnecting the charge pipe and driving the car to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust welded up early. I'm gonna bet money its the lack of backpressure.
And this same set-up on 7-10psi went mid-low 13s on a slipping clutch, stock internals, and street tires so it is worth the time and effort
check the voltage & the signal from the map sensor. when you are ready hit me up i may have a piggy back for you. its a split second a/f & timing controller. i spent almost $700 for it.
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Quote: Originally Posted by kevin in okinawa
the one good thing about this thread: i now have a new bitch quote to put at the bottom of my sig!!
I will never again do business with RNR Racing..... Ask me why
The clamp is needed to keep the voltage the ECU sees from the MAP in a range the ECU understands. It has no fuel tables for pressure and if it sees any pressure above sea level, it flips out. The clamp keeps it from seeing the pressure, it essentially lies to the ECU. (And at some point, I would like to install the Megasquirt n' Spark standalone since everyone has such great results with it.)
Are you just using a fmu right now with the map clamp? You can also use check valves if you have to in order to keep the ecu from seeing boost. I agree though you should get megasquirt as soon as possible. That should work out well for you.
The clamp wont effect anything unless your over the amount of voltage your clamped to. The map works just as it normally would until that point. PM neondan he is a neon"all years" god he might have some answers off the top of his head. But no unless somehow the clamp is hooked up wrong and even then i dont think it would effect anything its not that.
You can also use check valves if you have to in order to keep the ecu from seeing boost.
Well, thats what the Missing Link is but I was told I cannot use anything like that since the intake air temp sensor is combined with the MAP.
the intake air temperature sensor shouldn't have anything to do with it. That sensor is only there to measure the air temp. The map sensor is all that worries about pressure. A missing link will work fine. So are you using a fmu or what? Do you have bigger than stock injectors? If so then you will need something to lean them out otherwise your car will probably run like you showed.
I know Neon Dan. I've actually been trying to get intouch with him but no luck.
I'm running 24lbs. Mustang Cobra injectors with a Cartech RRFPR and have set the base pressure at 35psi to clean the idle up.
I think what I'm gonna do for shits and giggles is just put a one-way valve in there and block the MAP from seeing boost that way and see if the air temp sensor gets mad at me. This clamp is starting to really bug me.
BTW, the MAP is clamped at 4.6v. No idea who made it though.
dude holy shit your gonna blow that thing up with a setup like that. 24lbs and you are running no engine managment to control those injectors. Do not boost on that setup because it WILL blow up. What size are those injectors too?
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MAP Clamp help needed....
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