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Old 07-19-2006, 03:21 PM   #46 (permalink)
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he is back on stock gears because his fidenzia's cracked. so basicly he is at 0 with his cams if that helps youa t all
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:26 PM   #47 (permalink)
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billy your boosting 19 psi on a ported stock turbo with a higher 8.5 compression, i think the slight knock is caused by a hi level of boost + hi level of timing.

record the knock and timing tommarow when you run the good gas to tell a dif

dan his cams are the 2.0 cams but with stock gears, jsut to clarify
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:27 PM   #48 (permalink)
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haha true about the 2.5 i used the same formula....

on a more serious note...i forgot to mention according to the aeroforce gauge...my intake manifold psi...*MAP boost* only reads 14.5....which means im that much clamped ...on my friends big turbo/AFC tuned car it only red like 10-11 psi..hmmm...

im gonna try running some race gas tomrrwo night...and see what happens
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:33 PM   #49 (permalink)
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take off the map clamp billy, and just tune with the fp regulator off boost source
the comp has the ability to add or pull fuel... id say take off the clamp with your st1 injectors you shouldnt have to pull any more fuel hell your fp reg is set at 58 (stock) just lower the fp to 56 or somthing and try it out. i bet the map clamp is causeing the timing adition and if you were to remove it and alow the pcm to see full map your timing and knock retard curve woul dbe dif
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:34 PM   #50 (permalink)
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If you're stock/S1 with a 2.25 BAR MAP sensor you could also turn the MAP clamp up so the PCM sees about 16-17 pounds of boost and see what that does. It should get richer but will also try to run less aggressive timing advance. See what the race gas does and you might need to play around a little. Also is your manifold/turbo by any chance glowing abnormally more red than stock after your runs? I'd check with the couple other people running the 2.0L cams but straight-up could very well be an issue. Get back to us after your testing.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:35 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Lagzilla
take off the map clamp billy, and just tune with the fp regulator off boost source
the comp has the ability to add or pull fuel... id say take off the clamp with your st1 injectors you shouldnt have to pull any more fuel hell your fp reg is set at 58 (stock) just lower the fp to 56 or somthing and try it out. i bet the map clamp is causeing the timing adition and if you were to remove it and alow the pcm to see full map your timing and knock retard curve woul dbe dif

He's also need to turn boost down otherwise it's going to hit the limit of the MAP sensor.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:42 PM   #52 (permalink)
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well the car spikes 19-20 then falls to mb 17, still that IMO is too much boost for even a stock turbo car, with the turbo spinning that fast im sure EGTs cause the intake temps to sky rocket. the amount of heat generated on that turbo is much higher than the amount of heat generated by my GT40 so my intake temps arent going to be the same as say billys 19 psi running TD04, watch the boost billy.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:48 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Lagzilla
well the car spikes 19-20 then falls to mb 17, still that IMO is too much boost for even a stock turbo car, with the turbo spinning that fast im sure EGTs cause the intake temps to sky rocket. the amount of heat generated on that turbo is much higher than the amount of heat generated by my GT40 so my intake temps arent going to be the same as say billys 19 psi running TD04, watch the boost billy.


i vote EGTs are a big possiblity.

SRTkid, have you every had the EGTs verfied?
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:50 PM   #54 (permalink)
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before i had the exhaust cam retarded about 5* and the intake advanced 2*...it was just street tuned and i found that to pull the best...which doesnt mean the safest...

also i did have the MAP boost clamped to about 16-17 a couple days ago...and the timing was still 20* then goin up to 25*..hmmm

right now have the fuel pressure reg capped off...so im just running about 68PSI of fuel..kinda like an expensive PTP fuel pressure mod
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:52 PM   #55 (permalink)
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thats more than stock
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:56 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Great info guys...aeroforce gauge is the best!!!! I'll be in here after I do a datalogg later this week or early next week...
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Old 07-19-2006, 05:00 PM   #57 (permalink)
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EGT's are NOT the culprit.. UNLESS the EGT's are causing the incoming air to be much hotter than normal, which may lead to more detonation.

This car has no way to measure EGT's.. The computer had no idea EGT's are hotter than they should be.

DO NOT turn the clamp off, your only going to lose more timing.

Dial up your clamp like Blackbird has mentioned and see if the Knock Retard goes away. If it goes away, then you know your losing timing from too much timing advance, which is causing detonation. You then have just a few options... Either increase the octane in the fuel (run better quality gas), cool the intake charge (better FMIC) or install a water/meth setup to help reduce detonation. And of course, you can always lower boost to decrease cylinder pressure and thus decrease the probability of knock occuring.

Taking off the clamp will NOT help, because the computer will see the pressure at 19ish psi, freak out and pull timing (so you are right back to square one). If your lucky enough to have an 05 srt, the surge valve will even open and dump boost there.

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Old 07-19-2006, 05:12 PM   #58 (permalink)
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his car has the "E.D" tip mod and there for throws no boost codes ... weather it will recognize 18 -19 psi as too much just by th emap sensor sensing it... then well have to see
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Old 07-20-2006, 03:25 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by TJ1376
EGT's are NOT the culprit.. UNLESS the EGT's are causing the incoming air to be much hotter than normal, which may lead to more detonation.

This car has no way to measure EGT's.. The computer had no idea EGT's are hotter than they should be.

Just to make sure everyone has a clear understanding on how EGT's relate to knock, they have nothing to do with the compressor side and its charge temps. Basically none of the heat on the turbine side will directly transfer to the compressor side. The heat of the charge on the cold (compressor) side is developed from the act of compressing the air. The compressor wheel draws the air into the inlet and via centrifugal force throws it outwards (in a radial motion) into the diffuser. The diffuser is the inside machined area of the compressor cover housing. The air coming off the compressor wheel is expelled at a high rate of speed and the diffuser slows it down. When it does this you can kind of think of the air as stacking up against it which builds pressure. And heat. When you compressor air it's going to get hotter due to friction of the molecules that are being forced closer together and against the surface of the container (i.e. compressor cover/diffuser) combined with friction of the air moving across the surface of the diffuser and out into the compressor's outlet on the way to the engine. The efficiency of the compressor wheel is determined in part by how well it can draw the air in, accelerate it, and then disperse it evenly over the diffuser.

The high exhaust gas temperatures are influenced by a wide range of variables but it comes down to the fact you're burning fuel in the combustion chamber and fire = heat. If the timing advance is low (such as when it gets retarded/pulled) the ignition is lighting off the burn later. It's safer because it lowers cylinder pressures but you also don't get a complete burn and some fuel will be left over and burn later when the exhaust valves opens. (On a side note that's similar to how an anti-lag "bang, bang" system used on rally cars works to keep boost up and the turbo spinning. When the driver lets off the gas the system dumps a ton of fuel, pulls a ton of timing, and slightly opens the throttle. This essentially causes fuel to go throw the combustion chamber and burn in the exhaust manifold. It can keep it spinning and boost up but is extremely hard on exhaust components.)

The cylinder head cooling and spark plug heat range also affect EGT's. If they can't effectively scrub off heat it starts to build up in the chamber. That's one of the reasons there are piston oil squirters in the block. They spray oil on the bottom side of the piston to help draw off heat. The theory of applying a coating to the combustion chamber on the head to reflect heat downwards is also another example of trying to prevent this heat from building up (but comes with it's own issues such as how that heat will affect the charge pressure). Related to the previous timing example is the valvetrain and camshafts used. If they allow the exhaust valve to open early some of that fuel and heat from the burn will escape into the exhaust and heat up the manifold and head.

Then there's the stock manifold and turbocharger itself. It's small by design to minimize lag and works great on near stock cars. But when you turn the boost up you burn more air and that air has to get out. It also happens that the exhaust gasses from that burnt air/fuel mixture are pretty hot. The longer they stay in the exhaust system the more heat that transfers into the manifold and also back into the head via the exhaust ports. To compound it even worse, when there's so much backpressure it's like compressing already hot gasses, which in turn creates more heat. The turbine is always going to act as a restriction to exhaust flow but it's a compromise to be able to maximize the energy transfer back into turbine rotation without excess restriction to flow. A more efficient turbine/housing that flows better (i.e. less back-pressure) while still being able to spin the compressor in it's desired operating range is what you'd look for. If we could do this on a stock turbo it would help top end but hurt lower end response.


So those are some of the sources and things that affect the EGT's. So how does that relate to detonation and knock? The hotter a mixture of air gets the more it expands. This increases pressure. In the cylinder and combustion chamber you have a piston that's already compressing the intake charge on the compression stroke. Combine that with a turbocharger that's pressurizing the chamber before the piston can physically compress it even more and the cylinder pressures go up higher when the piston reaches the top of its stroke right before the ignition system lights the air/fuel mixture off for burn.

With hotter temps in the cylinder head and combustion chamber it's going to increase this already high pressure even more. That can have an effect of making it more likely to light off early and/or more violently. If you read the other linked thread on timing you'll see that timing advance before top dead center (which is what you're watching on the gauge/scan tool) means the ignition is starting the burn before the piston is all the way to the top of its stroke and on the way down again. So if the mixture lit off too violently and faster because of the higher pressures then the piston would be driven back down in the opposite direction it's trying to move (which tries to stop and reverse the rotating direction the crankshaft is spinning) and it has to fight that high pressure to make it to the top of the stroke before it can continue downwards. That causes the bearings to take a beating and is hard on the piston, rod, and crank assembly. The piston also starts to resonate in the bore during this, the computer hears that via the knock sensor (a small piezoelectric microphone tuned to that frequency), and it pulls/reduces timing advance. That essentially means the PCM and ignition system is firing the spark plug later and closer towards top dead center. The EGT's go up and you don't get as efficient transfer of power from the burned mixture expanding to push the piston down.


Quote: Originally Posted by Lagzilla
...with the turbo spinning that fast im sure EGTs cause the intake temps to sky rocket. the amount of heat generated on that turbo is much higher than the amount of heat generated by my GT40 so my intake temps arent going to be the same as say billys 19 psi running TD04, watch the boost billy.

Like just mentioned the heat from EGT's work a little differently. For the compressor on a stock turbo car we don't have the exact compressor map that shows how efficient the reverse-rotation "16GK" wheel is. But we do know it's similar to a "small 16g" compressor and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries has published that. If you look at the map you'll see the compressor side isn't as bad as you'd think. Sure the charge temps coming off it will be high (which a good intercooler can effectively overcome), but the main culprit and problem is the much smaller 6cm² TD04 turbine on the hot side. It spins the compressor up fast for better boost response but puts that big restriction on the exhaust trying to get out when the volume at higher boost and rpm's increase.

The stock/Stage computers try to combat this by injecting a lot of fuel and running rich under boost. Gasoline in and of itself isn't that great at absorbing heat which is why water injection can be so effective without having to inject as much fluid. But the fuel will work to an extent and it also slows down that combustion process. When it slows down it's less likely to ignite prematurely and create detonation. The high timing advance that those computers run can then be used and that will decrease the EGT's. But it's a balancing act between getting too aggressive on the advance for the air/fuel mixture. Sure it helps lower EGT's and creates good power, but if you lean it out or increase the cylinder pressure (like what happens when you put a bigger turbo on a car with the stock/Stage computer) it can and will detonate creating knock.



By the way I did a quick search and here's some physics explanations to go along with this:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ic/idegas.html
http://jersey.uoregon.edu/vlab/Piston/index.html
http://wine1.sb.fsu.edu/chm1045/note...as/Gases04.htm

While air is not an 'ideal gas' it is close enough to work with the gas laws. And who thought they'd never find a real-world, practical application for that physics stuff?
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Old 07-20-2006, 04:04 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Lagzilla
his car has the "ED" TIP mod and therefore throws no boost codes ... whether it will recognize 18 -19 psi as too much just by the MAP sensor sensing it then we'll have to see [cleaned up a little ]

The throttle inlet pressure (TIP) sensor is used by the PCM to judge and adjust boost response via the factory boost control solenoid. If I remember correctly its solenoid also switches it to atmospheric to measure barometric pressure (sea level, high elevation, etc.). The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is what the PCM uses to calculate the amount of air going into the engine and determine when you're going into "overboost". But if you clamp or limit the output and not the TIP sensor the PCM should be seeing it as excessive pressure at the throttle and try to alter boost (if the factory boost control is still used) or take other measures to protect the engine. I mostly ran my car with Stage 2 so I never played around with tricking the PCM input from that sensor.
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