I've been testing out a set of Race Tech OBDII scanner gauges, and I have a question for you guys.
1) They have an injector pulse-width gauge that currently reads in milliseconds. Do you think it's better to read this way, or to have it read % of duty-cycle? I'm sure it would be an easy adjustment to have them switch that.
These things were fantastic on the dyno when I was trying to dial in my car Saturday! You always see people posting problems, or lack of power, or some other issue and one of the answers is usually "you may have detonation (knock)". The knock/timing/O2 gauge allowed me to not only watch for knock, but see how many degrees of timing was being pulled. For instance, my car in DAB0, running 17 psi of boost, gets 3.5 degrees of timing pulled in the upper rpm ranges. After some testing, it appears that our cars just naturally pull some timing up top. Now, if I go up to DAB2, the car doesn't feel as strong, and sure enough my knock is reading into the low teens.
Well, as I am also an evalutaor for the Tech Gauges, I would like to see the injector gauge show duty cycle. I think it would be easier for everyone to read and tell if your injectors are being overworked versus the injector pulse width. For the average person (like me) I wouold rather know what the duty cycle is versus the millisecs.
I like the easy to read gauges. The large display takes just a quick glance to read. The connection of these gauges is very simple since they plug directly into the OBDII socket and work off the current sensors in the car.
I agree with Pit Viper that the knock sensor is a wonderful addition. It reads in degrees pulled. In the upper end of the RPM's I am also getting as much as 2 degrees pulled on S2 no toys.
Currently, Tech Gauges offers 3 gauges:
1) Pulse Width and MAP
2) Timing/Knock and O2
3) Enine Temp and In-take Temp.
What is important about these gauges is that they show you what the car is seeing from the sensors.
duty cycle is a much easier one to compute in the head so I would say go for that. BTW tell them to get those damn knock gauges up and running already. I want one bbbbbbbbbaaaaaaaaaaaaadddddddddd </sheep>
ooohhh wait a minute, role reversal... you seem to be hooked in with them... how 'bout some freebies... huh.... huh.... Imma stalk all your posts and ask for free gauges ok not really, but damn that would be funny
ooohhh wait a minute, role reversal... you seem to be hooked in with them... how 'bout some freebies... huh.... huh.... Imma stalk all your posts and ask for free gauges ok not really, but damn that would be funny
Go ahead and stalk but won't do you any good.
Out of the three gauges, I will be keeping the PW/MAP and the Timing/KR/O2.
The temp gauge is a great add and shows that my stock gague is off by as much as 10 degrees. But the critical one to me is the IAT and since I have the AGP UHP and sensor, the IAT never goes above 73 degress but I might change my mond on thsi once I get the W?I system working right and it shows me my intake temps drop.
nothing major, fiberglass form fitted panels to hide 3 gauges inside the glovebox away from view. Open it up when you need them (all angled to driver, yadda yadda) more info comin soon
Is IDC something you really need to monitor on a daily basis? Your pulse width isnt a variable that gets modified when the EFI system is in open loop. Just get an OBD-II logger that spits out duty cycle and check it when you are tuning. Other than that it's not something you need to keep an eye on...
100% correct. Once you put your basic tune in there, if your duty cycle is anything over 80% you should rethink your inj sizing to begin with. That's not going to vary much at all
but, for the basic jist of it, Duty Cycle over pulse width still imho
nothing major, fiberglass form fitted panels to hide 3 gauges inside the glovebox away from view. Open it up when you need them (all angled to driver, yadda yadda) more info comin soon
I assume they this holder will mount inside the actual glovebox vs. the inside of the glove box door? It also might help to SOMEHOW add something that will hold the glove box open...Some sort of lock tab...Otherwise if you go over a bump the door could close shut or at least cover a portion of the gauge...
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