ok, so say just for shitts and giggles i set the 25% side to -5%. will it pull 5% of fuel from anything lower than 25% boost/throttle whatever you want to call it? and when it goes over that 25% it kicks into the next percentage column?
ALL BE ADVISED!
The amount that you correct on the DTEC in the fuel map does not equate to a % of fuel leaned. It's JUST a Value. Use you WB to see the results ONLY.
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ok, so say just for shitts and giggles i set the 25% side to -5%. will it pull 5% of fuel from anything lower than 25% boost/throttle whatever you want to call it? and when it goes over that 25% it kicks into the next percentage column?
Correctamundo!
Actually it extrapolates the value linerally to the next load point.
You can hit a part throttle boost of 12 psi on the flat hiway and not load the motor a lot, but go up a hill with a couple of guys in the car and 8 psi of boost and the engine is loaded more. WOT on the hiway with only you in the car and the engine is fully loaded because it is digging so hard.
Bring up your fuel map while driving and watch the cursor travel thru rpm and load scales during boost, that will illustrates this pretty well. The DTEC takes TPS, Map Voltage (Boost), RPM and calcs the load.
You can hit a part throttle boost of 12 psi on the flat hiway and not load the motor a lot, but go up a hill with a couple of guys in the car and 8 psi of boost and the engine is loaded more. WOT on the hiway with only you in the car and the engine is fully loaded because it is digging so hard.
Bring up your fuel map while driving and watch the cursor travel thru rpm and load scales during boost, that will illustrates this pretty well. The DTEC takes TPS, Map Voltage (Boost), RPM and calcs the load.
but the dtec doesnt see tps signal, it sees map signal and the rpm, while the tps wire on the dtec gets wired in with the map signal per the how to.
i was very leery about this when i installed, but i just did it, since the dtec wont alter the tps signal if you dont tell it to.
ok i am officially confussed now. i thought it was phisically reading the map sensor(not throttle position) but was translating(calculating) it into the tps siganal in which youll be able to edit the map accuratly.
Quick Question. Im currently tuning a buddies car. He's on 750's and No returnline, 60trim. He doesn't have a scan gauge yet, so im not sure what his timing looks like at all. Im already pulling in the -30+%, and im a lil nervous to pull more than that. Currently hes at 11.2ish AFR from 4-6k, but from 3-4 hes in the 9's for AFR with -37 on the DTEC. Should i be worried to pull anymore until he gets his scan gauge?
Get a returnline. Without being able to adjust the amount of fuel he's running, you're gonna run into problems. A scan gauge would be beneficial, but if he doesn't have enough money to get both of them, get the returnline first. That's my opinion at least.
Quick Question. Im currently tuning a buddies car. He's on 750's and No returnline, 60trim. He doesn't have a scan gauge yet, so im not sure what his timing looks like at all. Im already pulling in the -30+%, and im a lil nervous to pull more than that. Currently hes at 11.2ish AFR from 4-6k, but from 3-4 hes in the 9's for AFR with -37 on the DTEC. Should i be worried to pull anymore until he gets his scan gauge?
Yes. Be worried.
Don't exceed the high 20's in correction. DTEC and 750's are not the optimum setup.
Get a returnline and drop the FP to the low 40's.
They car will still haul arse in the high 9's low 10's afr. Thats how they come from the factory.
FYI,
Marion
Last edited by mario03srt : 01-25-2008 at 06:44 AM.
ok i am officially confussed now. i thought it was phisically reading the map sensor(not throttle position) but was translating(calculating) it into the tps siganal in which youll be able to edit the map accuratly.
so i finally got off my ass and calibrated my knock/shift light......
so i went out to test whether the shift point was right, and when i got on it, right when i hit full boost the knock light lights up red, which means moderate/severe knock. so i went to the dtec and opened knock on the gauge, and tried it again, and i got 1 count. now im not an expert on knock, but i dont think 1 count is severe.
if this is not a big deal, how do i desensitize the knock sensitivity so that it doesnt happen like that but will still alert me when damaging knock is present?
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