so I fixed it today, purrs like a kitten at idle anyway, going to take it for spin in a few just to make sure its drivable but I redid all the connections again for a third time after reading some soldering how tos on the web and talking with a friend of mine. I heated my wires up with a butaine torche and it seemed to make all the difference. I've never been able to solder so easily before. I also shrink wrapped all the solder points (except one, the wrap fell off before I soldered the wires and I didn't realize it until after I soldered them together. It was in a tough spot so electrical tape will have to do for now). I also had the SAFCII wired wrong...... I had the yellow wire going to the MAF and the white and gray going to the PCM. Basically backwards (damn I'm a moron). Anyway, all looks good now, thanks again for all your help guys.
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ok sounds good..but with my injectors i should not really be leaning out...I know it's two different beasts, but with my eclipse I was running Rc 550's and hitting 18-20lbs of boost tuned on a maf-t and it was fine no lean. how should i adjust the fuel settings on the safcII? where should they be at to get my a/f ratio's within spec? as i said, i'm completely new to the safcII so I don't know how to adjust it. also, b/c of this, I have not spent ANY time at WOT for the time being
what is everybody setting their NE points at for the stock turbo? im going home and getting my car out tonite
i have it set at 6k rpm's and decending in the 500rpm increments..is this the best idea?
im a ported turbo with all supporting mods..i wondered what people's opinion on this was..
would the safc or tach adapter have anything to do with me throwing the P0508 code which is the Idle Air Control low voltage?....my safc is hooked up the way the original post is written....my car would sit at a high rpm or just fluctuate, and at first my safc read as if i was stepping on the throttle when i wasnt but then the rpm's would fluctuate and the safc would show that the throttle was at 0%
That sounds more along the lines of a TPS issue to me. Your safc isn't going to read the correct throttle percentage anyways as it is not hooked up to the TPS (or shouldn't be atleast) it'll only read the map signal as a reference and not the throttle position, so disreguard having to worry about watching it all the time. As for the problem at hand, if you're not stepping on the gas pedal and the rpms are climbing or fluctuating then it's most likely the tps. Usually you can have the car running then go out there and wiggle it a little bit. If you can hear the rpms make changes then you need a tps rewire.
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O4 PT Cruiser non GT
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That sounds more along the lines of a TPS issue to me. Your safc isn't going to read the correct throttle percentage anyways as it is not hooked up to the TPS (or shouldn't be atleast) it'll only read the map signal as a reference and not the throttle position, so disreguard having to worry about watching it all the time. As for the problem at hand, if you're not stepping on the gas pedal and the rpms are climbing or fluctuating then it's most likely the tps. Usually you can have the car running then go out there and wiggle it a little bit. If you can hear the rpms make changes then you need a tps rewire.
ya i know about all of that....actually i didint mention the whole fact that i threw a p0508 which is the IAC low voltage....ever since that happened my throttle on the safc doesnt read 100% anymore( it used to read 0%- 100% depending how much throttle i'd give it.....the IAC fixed itself for now i guess since i straightened up the wires and the connection is back to normal....for now at least.....how would i get the safc to read at 100% again at WOT is what im asking? im sure i still get full throttle but its just that the safc is not reading it fully
QUESTION:
I have the SAFC installed but not tuned yet. Will Stage3 users tune the SAFC different than user with larger injectors/fuel return lines/etc, considering they will need to tune at different RPM points? Seems to me that Stage3 users will only need to tune at WOT.
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Mopar Stage 3R with Toys
2004 Flame Red SRT-4
Turbocharged 2.4L DOHC I4 HO
ya i know about all of that....actually i didint mention the whole fact that i threw a p0508 which is the IAC low voltage....ever since that happened my throttle on the safc doesnt read 100% anymore( it used to read 0%- 100% depending how much throttle i'd give it.....the IAC fixed itself for now i guess since i straightened up the wires and the connection is back to normal....for now at least.....how would i get the safc to read at 100% again at WOT is what im asking? im sure i still get full throttle but its just that the safc is not reading it fully
Yea, my girlfriend's idle air controller went out on her srt and it would go away and come back and go away, then one day it was just broken. It's a fairly cheap part, I can't remember how much, if you have a friend at the dealership you can get it cheaper with their discount. I'd replace it now before it goes out for good. It's not fun to drive around when the iac is f'ed up waiting for the iac to come in.
im about to install a used safc II and the tach driver, and i was just wondering will all the parameters of the safc be set to zero when i install it on mycar?
so if everything is reset that means my car will run exactly the same with nothing changed?
Reason im curious is because i dont want my car running all jacked up until i get it tuned by the shop! thanks
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2005 ob srt-4
Performance Mods:Apexi Safc II tuned by Extreme Motor Sports. AEM uego a/f, AEM SRI, Needswings 3" DP w. Electric cutout, AGP mm inserts, KM WG 21spike 15 red, agp fuel return kit tuned at 48psi idle, 3" o2 housing, msd coil pack, ngk iridium spark plugs, msd 8.5mm wires. BWoody C.V, Home D catch can, mpx Lfmic w/ hard piping, oil catch can, and m/t slicks 22x8x15 ( alil short but works fine)
im about to install a used safc II and the tach driver, and i was just wondering will all the parameters of the safc be set to zero when i install it on mycar?
so if everything is reset that means my car will run exactly the same with nothing changed?
Reason im curious is because i dont want my car running all jacked up until i get it tuned by the shop! thanks
Depending on what type of car it was on before then you may want to reset the settings (last option on the settings menu I believe). If its brand new, I'm sure everything will be at zero. Make sure it is set to run on your type of car (4cyl. w/ arrow pointing NE). Mine somehow got reset to the settings of the car that it was on before and it was not a fun driving experience.
im about to install a used safc II and the tach driver, and i was just wondering will all the parameters of the safc be set to zero when i install it on mycar?
so if everything is reset that means my car will run exactly the same with nothing changed?
Reason im curious is because i dont want my car running all jacked up until i get it tuned by the shop! thanks
after installling the safc turn your key to power and set everything to 0%.....also change all of the other settings to your own..ex..4cyl....etc.....i started my car without checking everything out and my car was idling really bad untill i fixed everything up
can anyone help me out? Been pming a bunch of people and posted on a few different forums, I don't understand the problem. lean A/F after SAFC2 install
Being told it's possibly a wiring issue somewhere. Probably up near the MAP sensor. even if this was the case, why would the pcm freak out and start going to mid-high 13's afrs on the s2 injectors?
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Last edited by siberian57 : 04-02-2008 at 10:46 AM.
so where do i just take out the wires behind the fuses by the driver's door inside the cabin and sauder the wires from the safc to those?
No. You run the wires into the engine bay (you will most likely have to solder extensions because you won't have enough from the safc) to the PCM. You will unhook the wiring harness from the PCM and solder most of your connections there.
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