Was just out there checking by drop light till it burned out on me
Power = SAFC Red / Cars Blue w/red stripe
Ground = Black to cars Black w/white stripe
Brn = T'd in to Ground between ground and ECU
Tha SAFC is getting power and holding the settings.
Thats as far as I got before the light blew out. I'll have to wait till morning to check the Map signal wires, but if thoses were connected incorrectly, would that cause the fuse to blow?
Also reseated all the ECU connector blocks. I had them all disconnected and unloomed.
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Guess again my foreign friend,
American Muscle will DO You IN!
OK So I've removed the SAFC and the damm fuse is still popping.
I found a cut wire going to the sensor/relay on the rear of the head by the turbo. Repired it with sloder and shrink wrap. Still popping the fuse;
safc has nothing to do with a wideband. if you need a wideband then you need to buy one period. only piggyback that i can think of that links to a wideband is the dtec
OK, well after several days of researching and troubleshooting I have my problem worked out. It had nothing to do with the SAFC-2. My MSD DIS-2 took a dump internally. S soon as I took it out of the equasion the car fired right up.
My next question is this, Since the MSD was my tach signal source, will the SAFC mees up the car without an RPM signal or should I take it out until I get a tach driver? It's zero'd out and has not had anything other than the initial configuration put in to it.
OK, well after several days of researching and troubleshooting I have my problem worked out. It had nothing to do with the SAFC-2. My MSD DIS-2 took a dump internally. S soon as I took it out of the equasion the car fired right up.
My next question is this, Since the MSD was my tach signal source, will the SAFC mees up the car without an RPM signal or should I take it out until I get a tach driver? It's zero'd out and has not had anything other than the initial configuration put in to it.
You will be fine with the safc in..even if you kept the fuel corrections in. Without a rpm reference, the safc cannot pull fuel as it has nothing to go by to reach the various NE points.
One quick question....I dunno if this has been covered at all in the many pages of this thread. But when I have my key turned to on (engine NOT running) I'm getting a pressure reading of around 0.20 on the S-AFCII. Should it be at 0.00 or is that correct and it's just reading atmospheric pressure?
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AGP DBB 50 trim + all the good stuff. Basic street tune, needs some dyno time now.
Best Time: 7.92 @ 88 MPH (stock turbo and slicks)
Best Time with 50 Trim:
8.54 @ 91 MPH (2.2 60') (19 PSI) (Street Tires)
Plenty of room for improvement!
had a quick question? i just installed my 50trim and all of a sudden my SAFC-2 is reading 84% pressure and thats b4 starting the car and even at idle. what the heck is going on?
heck ya! spent quite some time 2day going over the wires! i didn't install it but the mechanic that did, did a pretty bad job as of connecting the wires! so i went back through them and soldered all of them instead of just electrical taping them.you think it might be a problem with the way i ran my vaccum lines?
if its reading before you start the car then its a wiring issue. shouldnt read anything before starting and if its reading the same at idle as you discribed then its even further more of a wiring issue
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