you tap into all the wires except the map sensor wire which you have to cut because the signal from the map sensor goes into the SAFC II, then the SAFC II alters the signal which then goes to the ecu...look on the first page for the exact colors of the map sensor wires...
doesn't the purple wire connect to the blue/green wire for the knock sensor?? or am I totally off?...it's been awhile since I installed the SAFC and forget...
doesn't the purple wire connect to the blue/green wire for the knock sensor?? or am I totally off?...it's been awhile since I installed the SAFC and forget...
I did it yesterday and you are correct...and the grey goes to the green and orange map wire as the Map reference signal (go Pap!).
What is a good count for idle anyway? And what does your setup show as a 2 rpm value at 1500 and 3200
91 @ 1500rpms 92 @ 3500rpms...the rpms change depending on where you decide to set the pts at...at idle I'm around 4 on the knock which goes to 0 once I start driving/acclerating
Last edited by RoostBoost : 07-29-2004 at 11:08 AM.
Alright. it seems to be hooked up and working now, but what do i have to do as far as settings? Not trying to get it tuned in exactly, i just need it to not hurt anything while im driving it to the dyno
Alright. it seems to be hooked up and working now, but what do i have to do as far as settings? Not trying to get it tuned in exactly, i just need it to not hurt anything while im driving it to the dyno
Rickelus...do you remember which plug you tap into for the blue/green wire for the knock sensor feature(the purple plug coming from the SAFC II)? ...Is it the middle plug or the bottom plug on the ECU...I forgot...
did any one get code p0129 when they installed the safc? did your cars bog when you get on the gas? it seems like i get fuel cut at 3500. is the safc just not set right?
p0129 means the MAP sensor is out of range. More than likely, you don't have it hooked up right or you added fuel with the AFC. This will trip the ECU with a code, and go into limp mode. You then won't be able to go over 3500 rpm with out it cutting out. I know this because it just happened to me over the weekend. My signal wire on the MAP sensor pulled out. I couldn't go over 3500 rpm and threw the same code. I fixed the the wire and needed to reset the ECU to get it to run properly.
The install and tune is complete. I had the car tuned at Raceline Dyno/Speed Shop here in Cincy. The SAFC worked perfectly and the car was tuned at a 12.5-1 AFR in Hi Throttle which was set to come on at 85% throttle. And Lo throttle was set at 20% Throttle to 14.5 or so AFR. I saved the settings ASAP with the lock feature for safety purposes.
The afr did not vary but a .2 or less all the way across and my torque curve is so flat it looks like a Mopar STG2 Race mode sheet. I'm now making hp well up into the rpm range maybe 5600 rpm now. And the car runs so smooth and accelerates not only more powerfully but so much more smoothly. Thanks to Rick the master tuner!!! and thanks to VISA
I did blow off a lot of lines to include the plastic splice on the brake booster vacuum line near the BOV, all of the rubber solenoid (6) boots of the solenoids twice, my boost controller connector and a cap on the T. Just about anything that I had not zip tied yet, which i thought was a lot but I guess not. This is not cool on the Dyno BTW when the meter is runnong :crybaby: Also we ran the Water/Alky tank dry and freaked when the subsequent AFR was way off. I also had 3 CELS (same) for Map Sensor and TPS voltage do not correlate and we just kept clearing them and they stayed away. I dunno if this is from the map clamp or the AFC.
I highly recommend this add on to any SRT in any state of modification to any level of desire or daring!!!!
Marion
Last edited by mario03srt : 07-29-2004 at 09:57 AM.
I just figured since there are plenty of Apex~i SAFC owners out there and many are new to it, this thread might be useful for the SAFC Veteran users to help others.
help with:
Install
set up
SAFC to Vehicle connection
Tuning
and everything else having to do with the Apex~i SAFC(II)
Your going to need a tach driver to get a good rpm signal. wiring of the tach adapter is below with pics by our man Exhaust Depot.
POWER - Red wire (afc)---pin 11 on module C1 (dark blue/red wire).
RPM - Green wire (afc)---tach driver MSD Part #8913 (should be the gray wire on Tach Driver).
GROUND - Brown wire & Black wire (afc)---pin 18 on module C1 (black/tan wire) the brown wire should be T'd closer to the PCM.
THROTTLE POSITION SIGNAL - Gray wire (acf)---pin 21 on module C2 (orange/dark blue wire).
MAP SIGNAL - yellow white wire output signal (afc)---pin 23 on module c2 leading to PCM (dark green/red wire).
white wire input signal (afc)---pin 23 on module c2 coming from motor (dark green/red wire).
The C1 module is the bottom connector going to PCM
The C2 module is the middle connector going to PCM
I would also recomend using the MAP signal as a reference in lieu of the throttle position sensor. So, the boost tells the AFC when to go into the high and low setting. Just be sure to refrence the signal before you modify it.
Cut greenwire with orange stripe on the coil. This is the VCC for the coil. Attach the red with green stripe TOWARDS the COIL. Attach the solid red wire towards the POWER DISTRIBUTION.
THe black is ground, I like to attach it tot he battery cable. THe grey is your tach signal.
You can tie wrap the unit to the hoses and vacuum lines on the side of the battery tray.
If you dont have a soldering iron, then you should not be purchasing this item.
you can add to this too just PM me the info you would like added.
Does anybody know How to tell if the knock sensor is working on the SAFC, I hooked the wire up like its suppose to, or do I need the tach adapter so it would work with the RPM signal??? - MPHSRT4
You need a tach driver to get a good rpm signal...then you do the knock sensor test with the low rpm and higher rpm...set it and then check to see if the x goes away when you access the knock sensor screen. I did it a couple of times and haven't seen the x at all, but it seems to be working... - RoostBoost
Can you tell me what wires to connect/splice into for using the knock sensor feature of the safc. i didn't see it on NIVO's help thread... thanks - srtboy
The blue green wire - MPHSRT4
in these directions it uses a gray wire 2 times, once as a throttle position sensor goin into the orange/dark blue wire, and in the diagram it shows it goining into the green/red wire also, how is this possible? is the gray supossed to go to both wires?
__________________
Best run:12.167@113.93 mph with a 1.82 60'. same mods as below w/ 110octane on 24x8.5x15 MT drags.
Best Run on streets: 12.571@114.61 mph with a 2.0 60' on 18" all season tyres. mods=AGP WGA, S-AFC I, 750cc inj., HKS BOV on ATP UPP, Mopar sts, AGP dogbones, CCA FMIC, and 3" turboback no cat no mufflers.
Best MPH was 116.40 run with same mods as above!!!
Tuned by ME: 286whp 366wtq 22/13 FASTEST SRT-4 ON STREET TIRES, STOCK TURBO, OFF THE BOTTLE
"in these directions it uses a gray wire 2 times, once as a throttle position sensor goin into the orange/dark blue wire, and in the diagram it shows it goining into the green/red wire also, how is this possible? is the gray supossed to go to both wires?"
You can install it one way or the other depending how you want to hook it up. The orange/dark blue wire is for the TPS and dark green/red wire is for the MAP. The suggested way to hook it up is with the MAP so that the AFC references the MAP instead of the TPS to switch between high and low settings. Its a better way of doing it.
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I'm now making hp well up into the rpm range maybe 5600 rpm now. And the car runs so smooth and accelerates not only more powerfully but so much more smoothly. Thanks to Rick the master tuner!!! and thanks to VISA 
Linear Mode
