The SAFC will work..I installed and tuned the one in Nsanesrts car....the only thing you will need to buy is a tach adaptor..we used an MSD unit. Have fun finding a way to run the wiring in the car without drilling holes....I ended up extending the wiring harness a few feet so that it could be placed exactly where we wanted it..and still allow enough wire to hold and tune in the pass seat. Also...Im hoping you are wanting to use the SAFC to take fuel out..because attempting to add fuel will cause the ecu to throw codes and make life really hard on you..
For the car to hold boost up top, you are going to have to adjust the wga...hook the rage up with no boost controller...then adjust it to hold the boost level you wish to run up top [say 17psi or so]..then use the boost controller to allow more boost/faster spool off the line [can we say no traction]...
I just tuned the wga in for 17psi up top...it will gradually build to 19psi and slowly go down to 17psi near the shift point...[once the new agp wga gets here..get to tune it again].
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Ill take a note of where I have the NE points on nsanesrts car next time I get a chance...However, I hope that noone posts thier actual tune...and if anyone does..I hope noone else uses it...as EVERY car will be different..including two stock cars. This isnt something you just guess and play with. Improperly tuned, and you WILL screw something up. Basics such as Hi and lo throttle points and NE points are fine..as they will help you get a baseline for being able to do fine adjustments later on. Tuning should be accomplished with nothing less than a Wideband...You MIGHT be able to do SMALL adjustment utilizing the factory o2 sensor readings, however, I would highly advise against it.
why would the SAFC cause the ecu to throw codes when trying to add fuel??....When I try to boost over 17lbs in 3rd,4th,or 5th gear my car will hit a fuel cut, jerk forward, throw a check engine light and prevent me from boosting w/out some serious jerking and studder. Once I disconnect the neg. battery terminal the light goes away and I can boost again, but only to 14psi or less....
why would the SAFC cause the ecu to throw codes when trying to add fuel??....When I try to boost over 17lbs in 3rd,4th,or 5th gear my car will hit a fuel cut, jerk forward, throw a check engine light and prevent me from boosting w/out some serious jerking and studder. Once I disconnect the neg. battery terminal the light goes away and I can boost again, but only to 14psi or less....
do you have a return line?
the AFC will work best on the car if you have one so you can run higher fuel pressure while on boost and then trim the fuel out with the SAFC (this lowers the voltage the pcm sees and thus keeps you from hitting fuel cut) it does get complicated to explain but if you write down on a post your list of mods we can help.
Like NIVO said..the SAFC is better for pulling fuel.. If you attempt to add fuel, the afc is raising the voltage that the computer sees from the MAP [IE..higher boost]...So what happens is when you get higher in the boost the computer will throw the 0108 code [map voltage high output]..and the car will feel like it hit a brick wall....This is the major downfall of the afc...you cant effeciently add fuel..only take it away. So to solve this, you either need to go with a returnline kit, or bigger injectors. Then you use the AFC to pull fuel out and at the same time..this will make the computer see less boost so there is no need for a FCD anymore..
Power is gained by stabilizing the a/f ratio....depending on what boost you run and what other modifications are done..depends on the target a/f ratio at a given rpm level...For the srt, a nice safe a/f is 11.5:1 or so...When using the safc to tune....usually you have to go a little overkill on the fuel system [bigger injectors, return line kit etc..] and pull out fuel to achieve your goal..Widebands and egt gauges are really nice tuning tools...and I wouldnt attempt to tune without a wideband myself..
I use a generic wideband..cost around $315 or so...digital readout..with datalogger outputs..Using this while doing 3rd [for tuning] and 4th gear pulls [to ensure streetability] from 2500 rpm...Ive gotten nsanesrt's car pretty close to dialed in where we want it.
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