Everyone is saying you only cut one wire when installing the SAFC.
I did my install yesterday. I "tried" to cut two wires. One of course is the wire going to the tach for the tach adaptor. The other was the MAP wire (dark green and red I think?). I cut that wire, hooked up the wires as Pap's diagram shows and it would not idle for shit. It would go way rich at idle and then way lean as soon as I touched the accelerator. My connections may have been bad but was I wrong to cut those wires?
Like someone else said, I put the wire back together and it ran fine after that. But, aren't you supposed to cut that wire so the SAFC actually alters the signal before it goes back to the PCM? I'm pretty sure thats whats going on. If you leave it connected and just tap into the wire then the SAFC really doesnt have a chance to alter the signal, correct?
I was woring mine up the other day & noticed some difference's in Pap's directions & AGP's directions.
I wired up my SAFCII according to AGP's directions. I started it up & there was power but the display wasn't working? I hooked up the Brown (ground)from the SAFC like it says to do in Pap's directions. Boom, it worked now. I took the car to the dyno & started to tune it. This is when I realized that there's no readings being displayed? Everything read "O"? I was still able to pull some fuel out but not as much as it should have been able to. That's when I started thinking about the wiring differences again?
In AGP's directions it doesn't mention or use the Grey wire on the SAFC at all? On Pap's it states to splice it in before the signal is altered on the MAP signal wire (Green w/ red stripe)? Could this be causing a problem?
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Hey guys, please help me. I am getting this code and the guy that installed it is telling me that there is something wrong with my afc, that it has a defect. Is this true or could it be that something is not hooked up right, again guys please help me I am not driving the car because of this code.
Thank you!!!!
Hey guys, please help me. I am getting this code and the guy that installed it is telling me that there is something wrong with my afc, that it has a defect. Is this true or could it be that something is not hooked up right, again guys please help me I am not driving the car because of this code.
Thank you!!!!
Are you adding fuel? With the afc you can only take away fuel. When you it starts to throw codes like the p0108
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so there's nothing wrong wiyh my afc? He was messing with the numbers and than the afc threw that code (p0108), and than he tells me that the afc is not working right.
so there's nothing wrong wiyh my afc? He was messing with the numbers and than the afc threw that code (p0108), and than he tells me that the afc is not working right.
If fuel is being added with the afc, its going to throw the 0108 [map high] code, and if thats the case, and this guy says the afc is broke, then find another tuner...
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If you are talking about the Sensor type, it should be set to PRESSURE and have a setting of 10 in & 10 out.
Essentially, the map clamping feature on the afc is to pull fuel out. That basically restricts the ecu from seeing x amount of voltage. Just be sure you have enough fuel. Make sure your 02's are good to go.
I would also set the high throttle position to 40% when using the MAP as a reference. Example 40%=2volts=7.4 psi.....50%=2.5volts=9.25psi......20%=1volt=3.7psi...etc. So at 40% or 7.4psi the high throttle settings start to take effect.
Pap
What if your using the TPS signal? What settings would you set that stuff at?
On that note, is it really a bad route to take? My friend and I didn't realize until after we soldered the grey wire off the tach adapter into the TPS wire that it recommended to tap into the MAP instead. Are there any downfalls to the way I did it using the TPS vs the MAP? If so, the good and bad?
Can you still tune your car reliably using the TPS signal vs MAP signal? This is a big question I have. I need to know if I should rewire...
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Last edited by WhiteRob1984 : 06-27-2005 at 02:10 PM.
I just read through all 14 pages and still have many questions. But I think I would better understand what is being said after I actually see the SAFC direction and have it installed.
What the hell is this Low/High setting? throttle?
I just dont understand i guess. Maybe i should just buy it and find out.
What if your using the TPS signal? What settings would you set that stuff at?
On that note, is it really a bad route to take? My friend and I didn't realize until after we soldered the grey wire off the tach adapter into the TPS wire that it recommended to tap into the MAP instead. Are there any downfalls to the way I did it using the TPS vs the MAP? If so, the good and bad?
Can you still tune your car reliably using the TPS signal vs MAP signal? This is a big question I have. I need to know if I should rewire...
Yes, you can still get a reliable tune with the tps signal, thats how I have installed and tuned.
Using the map is better as it uses actual boost signal to switch from lo to hi, but if you set your lo/hi percentages right, its still pretty accurate. I don't have to pull fuel at idle, so I was able to set the lo and hi % based off that. The biggest thing I had to deal with was fine tuning the NE points, as when the boost comes on, you need the NE's a little closer to compensate and allow the afc to more accurately respond to it.
The NE points, actual tune etc, as said a thousand times before, is different for every car, even two identical stock cars, but for your main question, you can leave it wired as is, and get a good solid tune out of it.
I just read through all 14 pages and still have many questions. But I think I would better understand what is being said after I actually see the SAFC direction and have it installed.
What the hell is this Low/High setting? throttle?
I just dont understand i guess. Maybe i should just buy it and find out.
The lo/hi throttle percentages are setup so the afc knows when to switch over from the lo tune to hi tune [ie idle/cruise to WOT]. The safc has two different "maps" ,so to speak, and the hi/lo is just telling it when to go from one to the other.
The lo/hi throttle percentages are setup so the afc knows when to switch over from the lo tune to hi tune [ie idle/cruise to WOT]. The safc has two different "maps" ,so to speak, and the hi/lo is just telling it when to go from one to the other.
Nice, that clears up EVERYTHING about that. Everybody just threw up numbers. Thanks alot.
Cant wait to tune. So you have to tune this twice. Once for the low setting and another time for the high setting?? I think I read that in one of the 14 pages.
Yes, you can still get a reliable tune with the tps signal, thats how I have installed and tuned.
Using the map is better as it uses actual boost signal to switch from lo to hi, but if you set your lo/hi percentages right, its still pretty accurate. I don't have to pull fuel at idle, so I was able to set the lo and hi % based off that. The biggest thing I had to deal with was fine tuning the NE points, as when the boost comes on, you need the NE's a little closer to compensate and allow the afc to more accurately respond to it.
The NE points, actual tune etc, as said a thousand times before, is different for every car, even two identical stock cars, but for your main question, you can leave it wired as is, and get a good solid tune out of it.
Thanks man, that helps. Also, what should I set my Pressure IN/OUT at? I heard earlier on here 10/10, but that was through the MAP. I tried it last night and threw the P0108 code, or whatever, put it back to 0/0 and reset my computer, code went away. Tried it again and it worked, no code. Let me know what to set the IN/OUT at and why. Thanks!
EDIT: Now after reading this thread, Nick @ AGP is saying it's better to hook it up off the TPS, that there is no since in adding/taking away MAP voltage. Check it out for yourself: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...17#post2087917
Last edited by WhiteRob1984 : 06-28-2005 at 07:10 AM.
Actually, in that thread, nick is saying that you dont use the afc to add fuel because it will cause the computer to see an overboost code and throw the ses light. Not to mention, you can only go so far adding fuel before the injectors can't add anything more anyway. Top that off with the fact that the srt in general runs so rich that there is no reason to be adding fuel, especially with a stock turbo.
When running an AFC, you want the fuel system to be overkill, so that you can pull fuel to achieve the optimal a/f ratio.
The SAFC is going to be manipulating the MAP voltages regaurdless of how you hook up the TPS signal wire, whether is be on the TPS or MAP wire. The only real difference is the MAP way uses actual boost to switch the hi/lo, and the TPS uses how far you have your foot down to switch the hi/lo.
Actually, in that thread, nick is saying that you dont use the afc to add fuel because it will cause the computer to see an overboost code and throw the ses light. Not to mention, you can only go so far adding fuel before the injectors can't add anything more anyway. Top that off with the fact that the srt in general runs so rich that there is no reason to be adding fuel, especially with a stock turbo.
When running an AFC, you want the fuel system to be overkill, so that you can pull fuel to achieve the optimal a/f ratio.
The SAFC is going to be manipulating the MAP voltages regardless of how you hook up the TPS signal wire, whether is be on the TPS or MAP wire. The only real difference is the MAP way uses actual boost to switch the hi/lo, and the TPS uses how far you have your foot down to switch the hi/lo.
Ahh, I'm starting to get it now. So the HI/LO still function properly off the TPS signal, right? And you can still tune reliably and just as efficiently as hooking it up to the MAP, but instead of reading off boost, it's reading off TPS pressure. Are there any benefits to using the TPS signal vs the MAP signal? I have mine up to the TPS...
Also, what do I set my Pressure IN/OUT at? 10/10? And what direction does the TPS arrow point?
Last edited by WhiteRob1984 : 06-29-2005 at 08:50 AM.
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