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Old 01-10-2005, 11:37 AM   #166 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by RoostBoost
with those NE pts your going to be taking the avg. of what you have the % set at @3k rpms. what the SAFCII does is take the avg of your setting between the NE pts so if you have on pt at 3000rpms set @10% and another set at 3400 rpms @20% then the SAFC is going to give you 15% at 3200rpms.


when I had my SAFC II I had most of the pts. around 400rpms between each one on the low end and then closer as I got to redline...this gives you a more consistent AF ratio.

I have my NE points set up this way as well. I am trying to get to the dyno this weekend to see about setting corrections. Any advice on tuning it. Its 100 bucks for three runs on the dyno with A/f in my area so I don't get many chances to get it right. What kind of correction should I be looking at. I know its different with each car, but generally speaking.... At what rpm range are the most significant correction needed????

Also currently I have my NE points set as stated above. And everything is set at zero correction. I have it set on the factory default for high and low , which i think is 10 percent to 50%. Should I change this????

Finally with everything set as I have stated, is the SafcII making any adjustments or is it still running on the stock pcm settings..
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:46 AM   #167 (permalink)
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at 0% correction the sAFC isn't correcting anything and you are running the stock pcm settings....as far as dyno tuning, you're probably going to need more than 3 runs to tune it perfectly...you might be able to get a decent tune, but at least an hr. would be better to allow cool down and proper tuning to be done on each run...
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:01 PM   #168 (permalink)
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So since I have my NE points set, I will be compairing the A/F ratio at each rpm point on the dyno graph looking where I may be running rich. Then I will go to those NE points and remove fuel by going to negative points at each NE point on the safcII??? Is this correct?? And if so how much adjustment is made to a/f at each negative point on the safcII
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:12 PM   #169 (permalink)
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yes, go negative to remove fuel or %, not sure what each % corresponds to as far as the A/F ratio, that's why you need to properly tune w/sufficient tiime to do it correctly. I used my PlX wideband to tune my car on the street w/many 4th gear runs on the hwy!
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:18 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help, I will do some minor tuning on the dyno. What is a good wideband to buy????? I will get one so I don't have to spend tons of money on the dyno...
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Old 01-11-2005, 02:12 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Hey guys, i used to have a SAFC 2 in my DSM so ill shed a lil light, im thinking of buy'n a SRT-4 i might go test drive tonight, here are some examples of how we used to tune DSM's , i will show some example #s and such however EVERY car needs diffrent settings, so please research before you do any mods to see if the management in the SRT and DSM are similar...

here we go

If your trying to add fuel up top for more boost and you are hitting fuel cut we would do things like
1. remove honeycombs from the mas/maf so it see's less flow, you can also run a diffrent maf "maybe off of a srt-10?? or similar?" or make a larger houseing with the stock maf sensor bolted into the tube.

2. you will need larger injectors and fuel pump, like most of what i have read here, you mostly take away fuel on lower rpm settings.

3. do a search for "the blue wire mod" its a blue wire on the safc2 that is for cars with dual mas/maf meters, you can tap this wire into your o2 sensor wire then go to the sensor readings in the menu and i think its #3 or such will read o2 voltage, this will tell you if your running lean or not, then you adjust the safc to each rpm where you might be lean or rich, usualy you want to pull in 3rd gear from 2-3k rpms to redline then adjust and do it again untill you get it right

on dsms 2g .92 - .94 o2 readings were the target "THE SRT-4 WILL BE DIFFRENT MAYBE SO ASK SOMEONE WHAT VOLTAGE TO TUNE TO!"

so if you were hitting .98 at 5k rpms you would go to the 5k rpm adjustment point and leab it out 2 notches or so then pull in 3rd again, follow?

another great investment is to get a EGT gauge, then you know of problems before things melt. u usualy want to mount the probe on the intake runner last to get fuel on the rail between the manifold and turbo "pre turbo"

please do some research before tune'e with special maf's and such, ask someone with a wide band what is ideal o2 voltage to tune to for the srt-4 because all motors are diffrent,

its pretty easy once you figure out the basics, maybe i will own a srt-4 soon and will be here with many new friends, we will see how the dealer treats me heh

good luck send private msgs or whatever if anyone wants to chat or send me help,

please chime in if any of this sounds familiar to past srt-4 tuners and help some of these guys out, id also like to know if the motors can be tuned the same way as a dsm,

brax

p.s. i ran 20 psi for 3 years on a 2.0 4g63 on 93 octane with out any troubles,

i tuned like i just described and with a EGT
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Old 01-11-2005, 02:16 PM   #172 (permalink)
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p.s. when tune'n with the voltage on the blue wire mod,

you really need to ground the safc wire into the main ecu harness ground, also tap power here also, dont just ground it to the chassy

make sure you solder all the connectors,

all it takes is one wire the slightest bit loose and it will throw your o2 numbers out of spec.

the best readings were with the power and ground tapped straight into the ecu's harness


also if one guy has a setup and needs -5 at 6k rpm or whatever

and another guy has the exact same mods, the numbers usualy will not be the same, so use it only as a base to start from!
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Old 01-13-2005, 09:44 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Ok I have had my SafcII working fine for some time now and all of a sudden today it has thrown a P0137 and a P0108. I know the P0108 code is for map high voltage, and the P0137 is 1/2 map low. Does this mean my High/Low settings are wrong??? This is what I am thinking..... I have stage I and have the High/Low set at 20/90. What should I set them to, to get rid of the code. Should I set it back to 10/50 the default setting???? Need Help please... As of right now the codes are not affecting the driving......
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:18 PM   #174 (permalink)
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try setting it to 30/70 or so, it will save you from runn ing rich when scooting off boost around town, all it does is when you mash the gas pedal past 30% it richens up the fuel...

map= manifold absolute pressure sensor
prolly a warning that the ecu is see'n too much boost, try that cap mod yet? the red line or whatever?
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Old 01-13-2005, 07:40 PM   #175 (permalink)
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you can also set the safc to the screen that shows you the throttle position that counts to 100% when you press the gas pedal, then drive in 2nd gear or so and mash the gas pedal slowly and look at the safc right as it starts to spool the turbo, then set the percentage where boost hits as your hi/low setting
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:06 PM   #176 (permalink)
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something that would be helpful for those people that are new to any kind of engine management, would be to list all of the parts that you must have inorder for the SAFCII to work in the first post, along with a general price of what they will cost you. because the implication, if you just read the first post, is that you can buy the SAFC and tune your car, without anything else. disclosing that a return fuel line or bigger injectors are needed, along with a WB or dyno tune would give someone a better initial picture of what is involved...just my .02
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:40 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Question,please help; I will be installing the AFC soon, I run S1 with a down pipe Mopar Borla exh., Mopar BOV and 18psi. Should I install the down stream O2 back in the down pipe, or is it ok to leave it straped to the frame. I have read the AFC can only remove fuel if no fuel up grade is done! What about part throttle lean areas I can see on the DRB? Can I add fuel in those areas? May be some of you Experts can post your AFC fuel maps Even thought I know all these rides do not burn the same. It would help me out greatly when tuning time rolls around.
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:51 PM   #178 (permalink)
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does anyone have any info or wiring diagram for the Apex i AVC-R boost controller, I've got mine partially hooked up and its pissing me off, need to tap into my RPM, speed, throttle and a couple more wires for this to work right. I appreciate any help thanks!!
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Old 02-20-2005, 08:34 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by RoostBoost
the NE pts. are rpm points that you can adjust in 200rpm increments which serve as your correction factor pts. I'd start your 1st pt. at/around 2k rpms and go up from there in 400rpms or so till you get your last(12th) pt. at 6400rpms to cover our power band/rpm range... you can't adjust the idle correction factor as the SAFC II is controlled by boost or map voltage and the ECU will try to adjust the best it can.

So if this is true, how are you guys getting a good idle and good light throttle drivability with big injectors and no return line? Such as the AGP fuel kit with 750s?
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Old 03-14-2005, 06:56 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Default SAFC problem Help!

I just installed my safc in prep for my new turbo kit going on this weekend. Anyways, I am now throwing a code and believe I might have hooked something up incorrectly. The code is P0111. I did not hook the grey wire up at all. Instead I only hooked up the two for the MAP signal. My TPS always reads "0". Also my pressure always reads -760 hg. It seems like a wiring probolem or misconception. Thanks for your help!
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