Will this gauge read all of the parameters even if you're off of PCM-controlled boost? Also, is this gauge really Plug-N-Play (straight into the Onboard Diagnostic II Port)?
Yes . it will tell you what the ECU thinkls is going on . For example , it will tell you what the manifold pressure signal is , according to the MAP sensors input to the ECU . but if you are using a Map Clamp , you are basically tricking your MAP sensor to lie to your ECU , so if you set your clamp to hide any boost beyond 17 PSI , then the scan gauge will top out at 17 psi .
It can show pretty much all the advanced OBD data , but only two parameters at a time .
It is absolutely plug & play . One plug . the OBD-II plug . it gets its power from the same plug , so thats it !
As far as I know , these gauges are still the best solution to seeing your OBD data in realtime . They have a little internal memory as well so you can record snippets of data . They can also be used to trigger outboard gear when a certain threshold is reached , so they can be used to trigger a water injection system when you hit a certain boost level , or a nitrous shutoff if knock is detected , ect .
Some people love them ( me ) , some people hate them ( duster360 ) . I guess its all about what your expectations are .
Yes . it will tell you what the ECU thinkls is going on . For example , it will tell you what the manifold pressure signal is , according to the MAP sensors input to the ECU . but if you are using a Map Clamp , you are basically tricking your MAP sensor to lie to your ECU , so if you set your clamp to hide any boost beyond 17 PSI , then the scan gauge will top out at 17 psi .
It can show pretty much all the advanced OBD data , but only two parameters at a time .
It is absolutely plug & play . One plug . the OBD-II plug . it gets its power from the same plug , so thats it !
As far as I know , these gauges are still the best solution to seeing your OBD data in realtime . They have a little internal memory as well so you can record snippets of data . They can also be used to trigger outboard gear when a certain threshold is reached , so they can be used to trigger a water injection system when you hit a certain boost level , or a nitrous shutoff if knock is detected , ect .
Some people love them ( me ) , some people hate them ( duster360 ) . I guess its all about what your expectations are .
Wow, this was informative. Thanks for the info. Yeah, I'm definitely going to buy one in the near future. You can't beat the Plug-N-Play. Yeah, I'm not using a map clamp.
Wow, this was informative. Thanks for the info. Yeah, I'm definitely going to buy one in the near future. You can't beat the Plug-N-Play. Yeah, I'm not using a map clamp.
I just bought one and im not a fan. it feels cheep and the new ones have a chrome and black bezel no silver you have to pay extra on top of the high price tag to begin with (looks tacky). On the other it has a lot of cool dodad's and it is useful for tuning although play back is just still frames that you have to schroll through. i agrea with the above if you have the money or you plan to do more get the dsp
overall I think more people like scangauges than dont like them...whats nice about the scangauge is that it better for dd than the dsp(dsp is def. worth the money tho), it gives you knock, timing, mpg, etc in REAL time, you dont need to datalog and then review like on the dsp. Just plug in the scangauge, and turn to the knock setting, and you instantly see knock if you have any.
If your only going to buy one or the other, get a dsp. If you have the means to get both however, imo its a good investment.
I could not live without both the DSP and the Scangauge. Since the DSP cannot log A/F and I have my wideband tapped into my Scangauge I used the Scangauge to log RPM and A/F. I use a OBDII Y-Adapter to have both hooked up at the same time and it works great.
This setup let's me get better info off to my tuner.
Things I use on mine for all the time:
I have mine set as a 3000rpm shift light - actuator (sp)
Seeing real time how much fuel in gallons the car thinks it has. I always go to .08 gallons now. Before I was never getting close to empty and always getting pissed off when I could not get more then 38 liters into the car.
I have Knock Displayed on the Bottom always and Cycle scan the top from boost, rpm, map, and A/F.
Being able to record runs is helpful for dialing in a tune without having to hookup my laptop.
Reading Trouble Codes as they happen.(was getting P0234 before getting a better tune)
Clearing Trouble Codes without reseting the system.
The MPG is also fun (not sure how accurate) On long drives I try and see how close I can get to the number displayed
Only thing I have not been keen on is finding a Oil Pressure sender locally that will work with the Scangauge (5 volt). Scangauge sells one but I have been too lazy to order it.
But I really like having the info at my figure tips.
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OB 05 SRT-4, FM WGA, Injen SRI,
3Bar Map/Tip, PTP Check Valve,
17x7 DP6, BC Coilovers, Mopure STS,
Scangauge, MM inserts, AEM Wideband
Injen Catback. Tuned By TDSAaron
It is using the total injector PWM to calculate how much fuel is being squirted into the manifold , based on a static fuel psi of 58 . It should be pretty accurate as long as you havent rescaled your injectors , changed your fuel pressure , or such .
once you are up to speed , on level ground with no headwind , windows up , a mpg of 30 is entirley possible . Most versions of this gauge allow you to keep a running MPG avaerage , that will give you your total MPG average , not just the instant MPG .
My scangauge reads dead on for Vac, but I think it might be a little off for boost. Although i'm not cock eyed, so I have trouble looking at both gauges.
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