Awesome...that is a perfect description of what my car does at idle. You can hear it surge, kinda like it revs maybe 50 or 100 rpm, then idles like shiz. Mine has been doing it since I bought the car but has and is still getting worse over time. I have tried every different plug, gap, and wires out there to no avail. Thanks NIVO..good find. I will take a look at mine this week and see how it turns out. I will report back.
I think anyone with a rough idle should take a look at this instead of plugs, gaps, and wires.
NIVO. How far back did you pull the tape off and how much wire did you have to stripback?
JCert did you resolve your problem? I'm having the same issue...
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12.93@109 street tires
Quote: Originally Posted by Exhaust Depot
you're going to have to make love to the car
"its hard for cars to keep up with us when we are vtecing all the way up to 8800." - taken from a post on clubrsx.com
UH OH!!!
I think I might need to be added to this list of people with a bad (rough) idle.
It sounds like I got the same symptoms. My car will not idle smooth seems to jump up a bit on its own then almost stalls. And the RPM's seems to really jump around when slowing down(off throtle) or downshifting it just revs on its own and won't slow down.
It doesn't seem to have the problems when accelerating harder but more so when off throtle or partial throtle. I am still reading up on these posts trying to learn more about it, and still waiting to see if the problem goes away or gets worse. But it sounds like I got the same issue.. And I only have 9000 miles and basically stock.
Oh well it sucks! I was really hoping this car would last.. I try to treat her nice.
I have both issues.. Where it seems to hang around 3000 and then idles like junk..
Surges and feels like it will stall. By the way thanks for the update in the PM I sent you.
for the record...
I just got the same problem on my 04.
The car is an 04 and currently has 8200 miles on it. Current mods are Mopar Stage 1 and Mopar BOV.
I got an exssesive blow off and 30 min later, Check engine light came on, checked the code and there we go... 0123. I'm heading to dealer tomorrow...
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2007 G35 Sedan SOLD YOU WILL BE MISSED: 04 SRT-4 - Pretty much stock with a Red and Blue button - 12.9 @ 107mph
Ok...finally got sick of the TPS volt radical input. Since I went and purchased a new engine harness, I decided to fid the problem to see what causes this situation with the sticky throttle.
Removing the CAI intake tube, discounted the battery, removed anything that was in the way (Greddy Oil Can), I discounted the any sensor that was on that portion of the engine harness.
Discounted both the top and middle harness plug to the ECU. Becareful on this since the shell insert legs can easily brake and wires underneath can be pulled from each pin holder.
Carefully, with a razor, sliced through the electrical tape and remove the portion of the wire cover upto the wire junction (three sensor junction). What I did find was sloppy mechanics fix (Cal Worthington Dodge-not recommended for any engine repair). Where he cut the TPS signal line (Black-blue stripe line), the solder connection had a bare wire that was exposed and improper connected. Hmm....not the first time this idiot done work on this car. Recut and remove all three sensor lines connected to the TPS. Removed the pins as Nivo suggestion and removed the cheap 20-gauge wire. Resolder 18-gauge wire that can withstand the bending and constant stress engine torque. Insert the three lines back into the white sensor plug. Then resolder all three lines back to the orginal engine harness lines. Taped with electrical tape and added new wire line shells. At each end retape it to add strength and not to exposed any winter weather rain to the plugs.
Installed everything and looked at the intake and down pipe. Noticed the Greddy Oil Catch can was 1/2 full and Roman-NO OIL residuel in the intake or in the downpipe. LOL Go figure...
Reapplied everything and connected the battery.
Turned the key and the P0123 code did not show and test ran the car. PERFECT.....Again, sad that a 19-year mechanic from Cal Worthington Dodge could not even make it work. SAD...SAD....this dealership has a great sales force but idiots with SRT mechanics.
Now, with an extra harness, I will keep it when the engine is rebuilt for more power later. LOL
Same time, my 13-year old son installed a ignition switch, like the Viper, in the Metro Mayhem. This kid is going places.
Hemidakota, I'm not getting any codes and yet my car is still messed up. The first dealer I took it to said they cleared the codes for it, but now I can't pull them up. My car idles at about 1000rpm now, and when I'm moving and out of gear, it sticks around 2,000 with some slight variation every so often going from 1,500-2,000 back and forth. As soon as my car comes to a complete stop from neutral, the 2,000rpm revs come back down to a more normal 1,000 rpm. I dunno... Dealer says its not the TPS or IAC because the wires have the proper voltage going through them, but I think the problem is that maybe one of the sensors is fried.
I just removed the old 20-gauge wire and resolder the 18-gauge wire to the old one where the back holder prong clamp is located. You may have some tried moments in getting the wire through the rubber ends.
Reasoning on not recommending the 20-gauge, the mechanic used another 20-gauge to replace the signal line and it had the same reaction has the OEM black line. Nothing against DCx supplier, but with the constant torque stress, heat, and other environmental factors, the 18-gauge has more strength than the OEM. I just replace all three lines going to the sensor and soldered the pins at both ends and 'Y' connection. Retaped everything with durable electrical tape' leave some extra length for those pedal to the metal moments, then shelled it with black wire hoses. Remember to taped the ends where the pin connectors for those who live in the raining and snow areas. Good luck.
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YOU WILL BE MISSED: 04 SRT-4 - Pretty much stock with a Red and Blue button - 12.9 @ 107mph 
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