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Old 03-08-2010, 11:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How-To: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement *PICS*

MODERATOR EDIT: There is another Valve cover H-2 located here: HOW-TO: Install Valve Cover (aka: Cylinder Head Cover)

CAUTION: Do not allow oil or solvents to contact
the timing belt as they can deteriorate the rubber
and cause tooth skipping.


I needed to change my VCG, so i figured i would take pics of every step and make a how to... It was very easy... took less then 30 minutes... The only thing i needed was the VCG (i got a Felpro from Autozone), an 8MM deep-well socket, a 10MM deep-well socket, a ratchet, an extension, and some shop towels. Most people use some RTV to hold the gasket in place, but i didn't use any. I also didn't use a torque wrench, though i recommend you use one.




Step 1:

Pop the hood, and get your 8MM and 10MM sockets and ratchet.


Step 2:

Pop off your spark plug wires off your spark plugs.


Step 3:

Get a flat head screw driver, or use your fingers to push the red clip on the coil pack wire towards the back of the car. Once it pushes out, pull off the plug from the coil pack.


Step 4:

Unbolt your coil pack from your valve cover. These are 10MM bolts. After all your bolts are off, pull your coil pack off, put the bolts back in the coil pack and set it down somewhere out of the way.


Step 5:

Remove the SRT -4 Injector cover. Flip it upside down, and set it off to the side somewhere. Remove the hose going to you PCV valve. After its removed, unscrew your PCV valve, and remove it. Set it in the SRT -4 Injector cover, which should be around your coil pack.


Step 6:

Remove the driver side hose going to your valve cover.


Step 7:

Pull the black clip that holds your coil pack plug upwards, and set it off to the side somewhere out of your way.


Step 8:

Now, we are going to start removing the valve cover bolts. There are a total of 9 bolts in the valve cover. These are 8MM Bolts. Every time you pull out a bolt, make note of which one came out of which hole. After you have done this, set them all in your injector cover.











Step 9:

Now, put your finger under the driver side breather (the bung that the hose slips over on the driver's side of the valve cover) and pull up on the valve cover... If you cant get it after a few tugs, you may want to get a rubber mallet, and slightly tap on the front and rear of the valve cover... Mine has been on my car since 03, and has never been replaced. took me about three good tugs, then it popped off. MAKE SURE no gasket material falls into the cylinder head. You want to keep it clear of all debris.


Step 10:

After you pull the valve cover off, set it aside next to your injector cover, upside down. You don't want to get anything inside of this either, or else you get to clean it. After its removed, it should look like this... If it doesnt, take a pic, and post it on here
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Last edited by RUgoinUp; 03-09-2010 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Step 11:

Now, you need to remove all the old valve cover left on the head...

I used a flat head screw driver, to *easily* scrape off the old gasket. But don't scratch it hard or else you will leave indention's on the head.

After its done, it should look something like this.



Step 12:

Now, you want to make sure that the round parts that the spark plug o-rings sit on are clean and clear of debris.


Step 13:

After the head is cleared of all remaining gasket material, to go the valve cover. Now you need to pull out the old spark plug o-rings.


Step 14:

After the old o-rings are removed, put in the new ones.



Step 15:

After all the o-rings are installed, put the valve cover gasket around the valve cover.

It should look like this when your done.


Step 16:

MODERATOR EDIT:

Apply Mopart Engine RTV GEN II at the
camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of the 1/2
round seal.



Now, you want to put the valve cover back on the head. Have someone hold their hands under the valve cover and turn it upside down to make sure that no gaskets come loose or fall out. it helps to have one person hold the hoses and lines on the passenger side of the block so you can put it on there easily. Once its on the head, it should look like this.


Step 17:

Now, you need to start putting in the bolts. This is a multiple step process. First, there is a pattern to which you tighten the bolts, and then, there is a three step tightening sequence you need to follow.

Here is a diagram of the bolts you need to tighten up first.


And here are the pictures of each hole. These following pictures are in order. Put the bolt in these following holes. When you put each bolt in the hole, tighten them to 40in lbs.










Step 18:

After all your bolts are in, and tightened to 40in lbs, start back at the first bolt (in the diagram above) and tighten them all to 80in lbs. After you have tighten them all to 80in lbs, start again, following the diagram above, start at the first bolt, and lastly tighten them all to 105in lbs.

Step 19:

Now that all of your bolts are finally tightened to 105in lbs, go back to the 5th bolt, put the nut back on, slide the metal around the bolt, then slide the black holder in place. After this is done, re-attach your PCV valve and its hose, and the drivers side hose back to the valve cover... I secure all of mine with zip ties. that's your choice. Next, put to coil pack back on. Set it on the valve cover, thread the bolts in by hands until there tight, then tighten them down with a 10MM socket. These don't need to be very tight... so don't over tighten them. After the coil pack is secured, put the coil pack clip back on... press it towards the coil pack firmly. Whenever it is on there, press the red tab towards the front of the car until it clicks into place.


Step 20:

Now, put your injector cover back on, and clean up your tools. Start the car. Make sure there is no oil squirting out of anywhere... if there is, shut it off immediately, and go back over your steps. let it get to normal operating temperature, let it cool down. Inspect the valve cover front to back for leaks. Pull out the spark plug wires, and make sure that the spark plug o-rings are not leaking. If everything looks fine, close the hood, and call it a day!

After i put mine on, i gained +3 PSI. I thought i was just running lower boost due to low temperatures. Tuns out i must have been leaking boost from around my valve cover.
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Last edited by RUgoinUp; 03-09-2010 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sweet!!!! I love pictures!! Subscribed will be doing this as soon as I get home. Need to replace this and the spark plug seals!!! Thanks again.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't forget about the small dabs of silicone in the corners of the left and right big cam caps. Where the cap ends at the head...sometimes a little oil seepage can occur at these corners

It's in the service manual.
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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humm... i diddnt do that :/

ill keep an eye on it for a while.
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Fischy View Post
Don't forget about the small dabs of silicone in the corners of the left and right big cam caps. Where the cap ends at the head...sometimes a little oil seepage can occur at these corners

It's in the service manual.

^this is important if you want a leak free valve cover
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You need to go back and fix this on your car.

I inserted this important step into the instructions. I also added the link to the other H-2 into this one, and added this link to the other.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Appreciate you taking the time to write this up.

PS, I'm using the same gaskets.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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where did u get the gasket?

ok nevermind i see now.. lol

Last edited by D Eagle; 03-12-2010 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice write up. Thanks, Keep us posted on the cam corner leaks.
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Old 03-11-2010, 04:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is one of the best write ups I have ever seen, great pictures and detail.
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks all!!! i actually will keep you updated on the leaks lol... if it starts leaking ill post up the miles i put on it before it started leaking lol!
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Old 03-12-2010, 01:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i just did this and got the same gasket you got.

Also mine was leaking where the exhaust cam was on the right hand side next to the intake pipe.

you have to apply silicon on all the corners.
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by D Eagle View Post
i just did this and got the same gasket you got.

Also mine was leaking where the exhaust cam was on the right hand side next to the intake pipe.

you have to apply silicon on all the corners.

yea when i painted my valve cover i reused my gasket and seals..but i used rtv sealant high temp the copper color stuff..and 1 and a half years later its leaking in he same spot as u..i dunno about using a aftermarket cheap gasket over a oem
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Old 03-12-2010, 02:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I broke bolts 7 and 9...not fun!
nice write up... what did the gasket set cost at autozone?
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