Parts Needed: ( 20 dollars if u dont have bits or compressed air.)
18mm Spark Plug Non-Fouler (come in 2 per pack)
Avail at local auto store (5 bux)
7/16th drill bit (5 bux)
Compressed air (outta can will work) (5 bux)
7/8th wrench (o2 socket will not work) (5 bux)
Drill
How To:
Jack up car
locate 2nd o2 sensor harness and disconnect
Grab 7/8th wrench and remove sensor
Take non fouler out of package and secure (preferably in
a vise) and drill out the inside of the non fouler. (if u try
to screw in o2 into non-fouler ull see y) just a bit needs
removed. DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE NON
FOULER. You just need to open up the inside of the non
fouler so the o2 will fit inside it.blow out shavings with air.
Screw in o2 into non fouler then install non fouler into o2 bung
* May not work if u dont have an extra 3/4" of clearance around o2 sensor, u can get an exhaust shop to install an extra o2 bung if u need the clearance and u can plug the extra bung with an oil drain plug of m18x1.5
With this mod the o2 get heat for the heater circuit still reads a minimal amount of exhaust (just the tip of o2) making it seem to the 02 there is a difference from o2 #1 t o2 #2.
3 weeks with no cel as of yet.
here is where u bore out the inside of the non fouler the circle in yellow needs to open up to 7/16th so the sensors probe will fit inside.
Thats all fine and dandy, but an easier way is to leave the o2 sensor intact to the wires and zip tie it out of the way of moving parts. The sensor will p/u ambiant air and read just fine.
The check engine light that you are getting is not from the 2nd o2 sensor but from the upstream o2 sensor ( in o2 housing). It is reading no backpressure and sending CEL code p0133 i think that is the right code, its either 0133 or 0833, but either way, if you don't have a cat on your exhaust your gonna get a code no matter what.
Mine is fine for several weeks then when I am just driving on the highway, it will come on. Nothing you can do about it. Just carry around a 10mm wrench so you can reset the pcm (take of the postive cable off of the battery for a few seconds).
Brian
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Brian
04 E-Blue SRT-4
Ask yourself one question:
"When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?"
the cel will only be thrown if ur driving at a constant speed for a certain period of time. and that spark plug non fouler thing is a great idea, i just opted to get stage 1 since i will be needing it with my turbo upgrade anyhow.
stage 1 provides nothing to me as an 2004 xcept overboost code which is an easy fix and the cat delete which i have also fixed, has over 1800 miles since i have done it with at least 600 being highway miles. why would u need stage 1 for a turbo upgrade???
excellent idea. i am going to try this once i order my downpipe. i really hope it works out. i really didnt wanna spend the money for s1 on my 2004 since i was going to go with an AGP kit and fuel system later on anyways. this is very helpful.
stage 1 provides nothing to me as an 2004 xcept overboost code which is an easy fix and the cat delete which i have also fixed, has over 1800 miles since i have done it with at least 600 being highway miles. why would u need stage 1 for a turbo upgrade???
Stage 1 gives you a new fuel map as well as a safe range for more boost, it's stupid to think 2004's come with Stage 1 cause THEY DO NOT. Only the injectors. Sure, you can fool the stock ECU for the overboost code and the CAT delete, but let's see how long your car withstands the added stress without the proper ECU/Fuel map/tuning.
fuel map? you kidding right? Fuel maps are very similar as stage I doesn't give you an upgraded map sensor. Many people have ran on the dyno with no issues on stage 0 running just as much boost as stage 1 cars. Except that stage 0 makes more power. Saying that... using stage 1 injectors on a 03 stock pcm might not be a good idea, i just dont know. but the 04 stock pcm will give u just as much fuel as stage 1 without pulling so much timing.
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11.5mm wires
greddy full auto tt
JMB catch can and breather
mopar bov
front and rear dc sports strut tower bars
mopar sts w/booger
mpx shift knob
agp motor mounts
jlm tranny mount
bdj's no cat 3" side-exit jmihalchik's 2nd O2 eliminator mod
MaxxFab 3" O2 Housing
agp wga
needswings MBC 17psi down to 15psi
Denso Iridium ITL20
JMB 3" SR Intake
180 tstat
LFS 60MM TB/ADPTR
With people running turbo kits, it has been proven that switching from the stage 1 to stage 0 pcm has given them gains. You just wasted money buying stage 1 for a turbo upgrade kit.
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"It's for someone considering an Acura RSX, but actually wants some power" --Road & Track
fuel map? you kidding right? Fuel maps are very similar as stage I doesn't give you an upgraded map sensor. Many people have ran on the dyno with no issues on stage 0 running just as much boost as stage 1 cars. Except that stage 0 makes more power. Saying that... using stage 1 injectors on a 03 stock pcm might not be a good idea, i just dont know. but the 04 stock pcm will give u just as much fuel as stage 1 without pulling so much timing.
Oh boy, I want to see Dale Seeley have a field day with you. With what you just said, it sounds like you're comparing a "map" sensor with fuel "maps." Correct me if I'm wrong.......
yea, i am, but the fuel map really can't be that different, they are the same injectors, almost the same boost levels and the same sensors. So, with exact same input and exact same output, the map can't be changed that much. i would call it a mere tweaking making the car run pig rich. stage 0 runs rich enough to hold 15-16 psi at redline, the max of the stock turbo, midrange is pig rich at 10, hence why people are clamping stage 0 to lean out the midrange a tad and get rid of the spark cut.
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