Ok, many of you may be more mechanically inclined than I, but this one took a bit of persuasion for me, so here's a good method on how to replace your tranny mount.
1: Jack up your drivers side left wheel, jack from the unibody so you can let the suspension drop all the way. Remove driver front wheel.
2: Remove the black circular cap just left of the strut. You will see a ground wire running to it.
3: With another jack, support the transmission - put a slight amount of upward force on it.
4: With your 18mm socket, remove the mount bolt hidden under the previously-removed plastic cap.
5: After the mount is removed, relieve all pressure under the transmission-supporting jack. The transmission will drop several inches.
6: With a 15mm socket, remove all 3 mount bolts.
7: You will have to work the mount out of the compartment. It will pull out towards the bumper. Try to rotate the top towards the engine - keep trying it will come out.
8: Repeat reverse procedure to re-install the new mount.
9: Put the 3 15mm bolts in the mount.
10: Jack the transmission until the hole under the black plastic cap meets the hole in the mount.
11: Re-tighten 18mm mount bolt.
12: Reinstall the wheel, and you are good to go.
There are some pretty good how-to's on the other 2 mounts, just couldn't find a decent one for the tranny mount. Hope this helps. I don't have any pictures but hopefully descriptions are good enough.
No problem... The upper is easy, and here's how you do the lower:
Jack up passenger front
Remove wheel
Crawl under car, remove 3 10mm bolts holding mud/dirt sheild on car. One is right below your hot side intercooler pipe, the other two are up a little in the fender well.
But I just got around to putting this mount in, and figured I'd give a little more help. I added pictures.
This is from after you remove your battery, and air box/ cai...
To remove the battery tray, remove four 10mm, and one 13mm bolt.
Once you remove the tray, the motor mount should be visible from the top.
This is where you move from the engine bay, to the drivers side front tire. Take the tire off, once the car is jacked up in the air, put your jackstand on the unibody, as explained above. You'll be able to see the cap covering the bolt... for some reason , mine was off already?
Take the tire off of the car, and locate the bolt.
This is the step where you put the jack under the transmission with a block of wood and raise the tranny just enough to take pressure off of the bolt...
Loosen the bolt, take it out, and then lower the transmission, but don't take the jack off of the tranny. Just lower it enought to expose the bolts.
take those off, then you can move back to the top of the engine bay and work the mount out, and replace it with your new solid mount. (I didn't take a picture of this cause really, there's nothing to look at. I found it came out VERY easy if you pushed the mount towards the front of the car (radiator).
grab hold of your new mount, and put it back in the stock location. In my case, the letters, AGP went towards the pass side of car.
Put your mount in the stock location, and then bolt up the three 15mm bolts you took out earlier
Raise the tranny so that the bolt holes align with the bolt hole and throw that bad boy back in. (this was the hard part for me. It required the use of a crowbar to align properly.)
Then just reverse the steps and viola! You're done!
Hope the pictures helped.... I'm more of a visual guy myself, and would have loved to see pictures before diving in, but hey, it's done....
3) Install transaxle into position. Install and
torque transaxle-to-block bolts to 108 N·m (80 ft.
lbs.).
(4) Install upper mount/bracket to transaxle and
torque bolts to 68 N·m (50 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 76).
(5) Raise engine/transaxle assembly into position.
Install and torque through-bolt to 122 N·m (90 ft.
lbs.).
Hi N Mity posted it in another post. It's on page 21-80, under installation.
Just did this today - great How To. I tried to "push/pull the mount towards the bumper", but couldn't get the damn thing through. Wound up taking the intake box out and pulling the mount through there.
I did all 3 yesterday and for the trans mount, i took off 2 bolts from the bracket thats in the way and bended it and out came the mount, very easy. Way better than trying to wrestle it out of there.
If you get the transaxle inserts ...they are a PITA..BEWARE..
Here are the things that caused problems for everyone in installing these bitches but its buried in the forums and no one (until now) mentioned these problems...they say "take bolts off, take off mount, pop in inserts, bolt back on ....done.
THis is not true......bull...shit. Here is what will happen...
1. The prothane inserts make slipping the mount back into the battery support/trans mount cage ( I am unsure what this thing is called but the trans mount is underneath it and the battery tray is on top and the big bolt goes through it) ... IMPOSSIBLE...why? because there are 4 metal dimples within the inside of the support. THe prothane inserts are thick and they are already a very tight fit into the support/transmount cage with the metal dimples its impossible (almost) to get them back in.
Save yourself the trouble and take off the battery support/trans support and file down those damb metal dimples..this in itself is a PITA.
2. Note: Even if you can get it past the 4 metal dimples it makes it impossible to move the trans mount when trying to reposition for rebolting and lineing up. Save yourself the hassle and file them down. I tried to do this without fileing them down and it took hours and hours and I finally just realized that I had to file them...save yourself the time and file them down.
3. once your ready to rebolt the battery tray/trans mount cage make sure that you put the transaxle mount partially in first. Dont bolt it in and try to slip the transaxle back in - the inserts will not allow you do do this...So put the trans mount partially in ..not all the way in or you wont be able to put in the 4 bolts that tighten the battery support/transmount cage.
4. The two bolts on the battery support/trans cage that are closest to the driver side window should be tightened up first.. before you push the trans mount into position. The trans mount actually pushes up against these two bolts and they are impossible to tighten unless you do it before you push into position the transaxle mount.
5. Note: the two bolts that I mentioned above cause some trouble when you have to tighten the 3 bolts on the trans mount to the bell housing due to the fact that your prothanes are pushing against them and the bolts make it hard to align the holes. Try moving trans up and down with your jack ...and use a crow bar on top of trans mount and cage...to get the holes lined up. Also tighten the the (3rd bolt to bell housing) closest to the drivers side window first. If you dont it makes it harder to get the other two lined up...I dont know why... I learned this after many more hours of struggle. I got the first bolt closest to the bumper in and could not get the others to line up...
If I had known what a PITA the inserts were I probably would have just bought a performance trans mount instead.