STUPID QUESTION ALERT!! Are we testing the main intake and the plumbing in and out of the inter-cooler? Does this also test the vac lines? I would think not. Like i said its a stupid question.
Not stupid at all.. we are testing the physical condition of the plumbing, so if you have a leak in your vac lines listen for the noise and spray soapy water everywhere look out for them bubbles. I swear by tthe boost leak test. and i hate when i see srt lose because they have boost leaks, thats what really kills us. the gauge should go to 17-18 after that is over kill.
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280hp 323tq
Exhaust Depot SEE with Maxx Fab DP, Turbo XS FMIC,
E/D Hardpipes with HKS SSQ Purp Tops,Koyo Radiator,
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So I boost leak tested the other day... has to use a 150 psi compressor (no others available) I just slowly opened the valve to let a very small amount of air in until my EBC read boost. I tried to just keep it at like 10psi -- not closing the Compressor-- just keeping the PSI at 10, but after about a minute the Boost leak tester would pop off the turbo intake So my only alternative was to just shove some air in there and then close the compressor valve to stop the air flow, but by the time I could get around to really looking for the leak ( which I could hear btw) the pressure would be gone. I was losing about 2 psi a second and the highest I put it up to was 15 - kinda afraid to go any higher, esp after my boost leak tester popped off from trying to keep a steady amount of air flow so I could search for the leak. Why cant I just keep a constant flow of air going through? The boost controller was only reading 10 psi.
Anyways: The leak I could hear was coming from the front of the engine area - my intercooler pipes all seemed to be seated fine and didnt appear to have any major leaks. I didnt have any soapy water so I couldnt be sure I need to buy some T bolt clamps and try this again. Anybody know what might be leaking in the front engine area? (near the intercooler, but definetly in the engine area)
RUgoinUp 2 Heaven? Ever lie, steal, dishonor your parents, commit adultery, use God's name in vain? Those are only 5 of the 10 Commandments. Breaking one condemns you to Hell. Claiming to be a good person won't work in a court of law, nor will it when you stand before God. If you want Heaven, admit you're guilty and ask God to forgive you solely on Jesus' death on a cross. Then love God with all your heart, and love people too.
if it's on the pass side, all I can think of is the intercooler clamp, or where the factory charge pipe goes into the flexible pipe that goes to the intercooler.
Driver's side is a lot more.
- red line on tb
- gaskets on tb, iac, tps
- air temp sensor
- another clamp on the intercooler
If it's near the back on the driver's side, there are probably over 20 different possible points. Lots are near the brake booster and underneath where the factory intake is.
if you don't have an air compressor, you could probably make due with one of those air storage tanks. Fill it up to 120 psi, then put an air regulator in between it and the boost leak tester. 20g @ 120psi should probably last pretty long when you're only testing up to 20 psi.
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RUgoinUp 2 Heaven? Ever lie, steal, dishonor your parents, commit adultery, use God's name in vain? Those are only 5 of the 10 Commandments. Breaking 1 condemns you to Hell. Claiming to be a good person won't work in a court of law, nor will it when you stand before God. If you want Heaven, admit you're guilty and ask God to forgive you solely on Jesus' death on a cross. Then love God with all your heart, and love people too.
Anyways: The leak I could hear was coming from the front of the engine area - my intercooler pipes all seemed to be seated fine and didnt appear to have any major leaks. I didnt have any soapy water so I couldnt be sure I need to buy some T bolt clamps and try this again. Anybody know what might be leaking in the front engine area? (near the intercooler, but definetly in the engine area)
There is a vac line on the bottom side of the IM. That could be it.
I recently changed out my WGA and it fixed pretty much all my boost problems. Although I know that I have a leak because I'm only holding 12.5 to 13 to redline and spiking 16.5. I could crank up the boost a little more, but I wanna wait till I get the wideband in it first.
ok ive tried several times now to boost leak test my car but my mopar bop wont stay shut, i tried key cycling and all that, i can hear air coming from it at even at 1psi, ive never herd it leak while im driving tho so im not sure if its a leak or what, it was on the car when i got it so i dono if it was put on right or not, is there anythign i can check on it to see if its leaking or just not closing for the test?
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Ditch the plate dude...thing will leak past 15psi. In your case 10psi.. might actually was the charge pipe. I thought iwas the mopar when i had it but it was acutallly the charge pipe. connect to the turbo. Get deep socket and tighten it up.
well i dont think its the chargepipe cus i can feel the air coming out of the BOP vents but ill tighten it up asap anway... i was thinking of taking off the bop but i really dont wana lose the blow off sound and i dont have any cash for a new BOV and all the stuf to install it.....
Ditch the plate dude...thing will leak past 15psi. In your case 10psi.. might actually was the charge pipe. I thought iwas the mopar when i had it but it was acutallly the charge pipe. connect to the turbo. Get deep socket and tighten it up.
the blue plate will NOT leak if you install it correctly.
the blue plate will NOT leak if you install it correctly.
well like i said before i got the car with it on so i dono if it was installed perfect, it dosnt seem loose or anything but ive never really tried to take it of or play with it or anything cus im paranoid about messing with stuff im not 100% sure about... what should i look for to tell if it was done right or not?
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So my only alternative was to just shove some air in there and then close the compressor valve to stop the air flow, but by the time I could get around to really looking for the leak ( which I could hear btw) the pressure would be gone. I was losing about 2 psi a second and the highest I put it up to was 15 - kinda afraid to go any higher, esp after my boost leak tester popped off from trying to keep a steady amount of air flow so I could search for the leak. Why cant I just keep a constant flow of air going through? The boost controller was only reading 10 psi.
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