HOW-TO: Test for Boost Leaks - Page 2 - SRT Forums

Hi N Mity · 02-16-2007, 05:45 PM

you can do it either way, key on or off. if you do the test with the key in the ON position, you will have to reset the PCM after you are done. With the key ON, the pcm will see the 20+ psi you are testing too, then go into limp mode due to the overboost it see's.

westrock · 02-16-2007, 08:03 PM

Quote:

wait so u dont put the key into the on position? I always thought it was to be in the on position is it ever supposed to b in the on position while doing a boost leak test?

When your doing a pressure leak test, your only testing the physical connections in the system. So you do not need to power anything up in the car.

Also if you want, you could just unplug the charge pipe from throttle body and put tape over the end of the hose or something (cap it off somehow). That way you don't have to worry about pressure leaking out of the system while your inspecting. That would also let you use a bike pump if it makes you more comfortable or is more practical.

BoostingSnail · 02-18-2007, 09:24 PM

Dont know if this should be added or brought up...but what about the factory boost leak that connects to the intake(between air filter and turbo)?...its just that when i did my boost leak test with the tester i built, I couldnt 'hear' for other leaks bc i use a compressor w/ the tester i have. Did some research about it and just pulled and capped the line temporarily to test the system. I plan on pulling the line and capping it for good shortly...but i wish i had the link handy on the factory boost leak so i could post it for everyone else to read about if they dont already know about it..but maybe someone here can add it

jyndrus90 · 02-18-2007, 09:36 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by BoostingSnail

Dont know if this should be added or brought up...but what about the factory boost leak that connects to the intake(between air filter and turbo)?...its just that when i did my boost leak test with the tester i built, I couldnt 'hear' for other leaks bc i use a compressor w/ the tester i have. Did some research about it and just pulled and capped the line temporarily to test the system. I plan on pulling the line and capping it for good shortly...but i wish i had the link handy on the factory boost leak so i could post it for everyone else to read about if they dont already know about it..but maybe someone here can add it

I believe hi n mity took care of this by posting pics. Look through the thread. Thanks anyway

Hi N Mity · 02-18-2007, 11:00 PM

BoostingSnail · 02-19-2007, 12:46 PM

ah...alright...i just read the how to and didnt see it...good addition with the pictures for the newbs

jaymzx · 02-19-2007, 01:00 PM

I've heard that you need the key turned with the Mopar BOV plate to enable the solenoid that equalizes the pressure on both sides of the diaphragm in order to keep it from 'blowing off'.

Fact?

stowaway · 02-27-2007, 08:58 PM

yes, fact.

desertsoldier22 · 03-19-2007, 03:22 AM

I am running stock turbo setup, what size intake adapter do I need when purchasing the Mach V tester. I have no way to check right now (deployed)

03-SRT4 · 03-28-2007, 08:50 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by BoostingSnail

Dont know if this should be added or brought up...but what about the factory boost leak that connects to the intake(between air filter and turbo)?...its just that when i did my boost leak test with the tester i built, I couldnt 'hear' for other leaks bc i use a compressor w/ the tester i have. Did some research about it and just pulled and capped the line temporarily to test the system. I plan on pulling the line and capping it for good shortly...but i wish i had the link handy on the factory boost leak so i could post it for everyone else to read about if they dont already know about it..but maybe someone here can add it

so can this line be blocked off permanently? it's in the pic that Hi n Mity posted, the green circle on the left.

and if you leave the key in the "on" position during the test, you'll get a CEL when you start your car.

**glhs837** · 03-29-2007, 07:29 AM

Can it? Yes. Should it? Now thats a Family Meal size can o' worms there, my friend.

SRT Team says, and I personally believe, that what tiny amount of boost you lose to that is insignificant, like the heat gain from the stock surge valve.

What this line does is produce vac to vent the fuel tank evaporative emmisions system, even when in boost, using the venturi effect. Now, many here feel that you can do this and never ever have an issue.

And, quite honestly, there has never been a reported issue from doing this. That said, I didnt do it on my car, and would not do to anyone elses car. But, my day job involves aviation and ordnance,so maybe I'm just more cautious than most. I dont blithely dick around with safety systems.

03-SRT4 · 03-30-2007, 06:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by glhs837

Can it? Yes. Should it? Now thats a Family Meal size can o' worms there, my friend.

SRT Team says, and I personally believe, that what tiny amount of boost you lose to that is insignificant, like the heat gain from the stock surge valve.

What this line does is produce vac to vent the fuel tank evaporative emmisions system, even when in boost, using the venturi effect. Now, many here feel that you can do this and never ever have an issue.

And, quite honestly, there has never been a reported issue from doing this. That said, I didnt do it on my car, and would not do to anyone elses car. But, my day job involves aviation and ordnance,so maybe I'm just more cautious than most. I dont blithely dick around with safety systems.

true, i agree..i just found it wierd that everyone complains about boost leaks and that you should cap them all etc., i've seen people complain about pin sized holes in thier turbo housing, so i figured such a huge(compared to what i've seen) boost leak would make a difference..i actually tried this yesterday with no performance effect. Maybe only the boost held better at redline, and my idle is MUCH smoother than before. But i think i'll be returning this back to normal this afternoon.

BoostJunkies · 04-04-2007, 07:47 PM

Cannot *advertise* normal products. If you have 1 or 2 that you are selling take it to Classifieds to Local sub-forum

i11.tinypic.com/2gspx6a.jpg

Heres a normal boost leak tester for you. I also have the one with the air pressure gauge to check how much psi is being pressurized into the engine.

srtkidd · 04-09-2007, 01:40 PM

hey what kind of compressor do i get?? where do i get one and does there have to be certain specifications to this compressor?? some one help me ouT!

stowaway · 04-09-2007, 01:51 PM

you need one with a tank and regulator. Bigger the better as far as tank size goes (won't kick on while you are working as often). The more CFM the better, figure an impact wrench needs 4-5CFM @90psi minimum if you want to use the compressor for more than boost leaks and tires. Oil-less ones are noisy and don't last as long, but are cheaper. I picked up a "kit" at Wal-Mart of all places that had a decent compressor and tank size, flows enough for what I foresee myself doing for at least the next few years, and had impact gun, brad nailer, tons of attachments for various tasks, and basically fit what I needed. Harbor Freight has some cheaper ones that may show good numbers, but it's hit and miss with them. Northern Tool has a pretty good selection if you are wanting something pretty nice, but Home Depot/Lowes carries compressors also.

If you get one, make sure you pick up a 50 ft hose. They are cheap and are much easier to work with 90% of the time compared to the coiled hose that's included in many starter kits you buy. This also lets you put the compressor around the corner or something so that if it does kick on while you are under the car, it doesn't startle you.