HOW TO: Stock Oil Pressure Sender

[Icecreamman]

I looked for a good how to on this as I replaced my stock oil pressure sender today but I found that there isn't really one for this particular install. I appologize for not having pictures but I couldn't really get any helpful ones because you can't actually see the pressure sender from the top of the car (or from the bottom for the matter without removing some stuff first). My car is almost completely stock so that is where I'm getting the tools from.

Tools you will need:
Sockets: 5/16", 10mm, 13mm, 18mm, 1 1/16" 6 sided deep socket (12pt socket will not work).
Wrenches: Multi sized Wratcheting wrenches sized 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm
Misc: Phillip's head Screwdriver, 3/8" drive socket, 1/2" drive socket, 3/8" u-joint, rubber mallet/hammer, about 18" of extensions, magnetic extension (not needed but helpful if you drop stuff alot like me).

1. Loosen the two hose clamps on the intake hose between the turbo and the air filter box. Pull the hose off.

2. Take the battery blanket off and unplug it, unbolt the 13mm bolt on the battery tie down. Losen the battery cables with the 10mm wratchet wrench and pull them off the battery. Remove the battery.

3. Using the 12mm Wratcheting wrench, unbolt the two 12mm bolts from the WGA. Pull the cauder pin out and remove the wastegate. You don't neccessarily have to pull the vacuum line off of the WGA, just move the entire unit off to the side.

4. Using the 16mm wratcheting wrench, unbolt the feed line from the turbo. Wrap the end of the feed line with a paper towl and put it off to the side.

5. Unbolt the two coolant lines from the back of the turbo. In my case with the wrenches I had, I had to unbolt the coolant bottle and move it over to give me room.

6. Loosen the top hose clamp on the charge pipe and the top hose clamp on the oil return line.

7. Unbolt the 3 10mm bolts on the stock recirculation valve. If you have an aftermarket BOV, you don't need to worry about this step. Alternately, if it comes off easy enough, you can just remove the pink line.

8. Using some extensions and a 10mm socket, loosen the center clamp on the turbo and remove it.

9. Using a Rubber maller or hammer, gently tap the compressor housing to seperate it from the exhause manifold. Now carefully pull the turbo out of the car. Now you can get to the Pressure sender.

10. This is where you have to do most of the work by feel. If you look behind the engine, you'll see the wires coming off of the back of the engine block. Run your fingers along the wires until you come to the plug. There is one of the red plastic sliders on the bottom side of the plug that you have to slide out before you can unplug the harness.

11. One the harness is unplugged, you come to another optional step. I took the 18mm sockets and 3/8" u-joint with some extensions to unbolt the shifter cable bracket to give me more room to turn the socket wrench. There are two bolts, one towards the firewall, and another one underneath the shifter cables.

12. Put the 1-1/16" deep socket over the pressure sender. My socket was a 1/2" drive so I had to get a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter because the 1/2" drive socket was too long to be able to be used. Essentially you just have to loosen it up and you can stick you hand down to finish unscrewing it.

13. Screw in the new pressure sender and tighten it. Make sure to turn the plug the right way when plugging it in.

14. Put everything back together in reverse order and you should be good to go.