How-To: Replace Shift Linkage Bushings - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum
 
 


Go Back   SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum > SRT-4 FAQ / How To > How To Forum

SrtForums.com is the premier Dodge SRT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-05-2010, 08:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
FiRnoEvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member Number: 77147
Location: Marion, NC
Posts: 62
Default How-To: Replace Shift Linkage Bushings

I'm not exactly sure how much this is needed, but there wasn't one so I figured I would post this up just for the heck of it in hopes that someone is able to take away from it. But anyways here it is: If your experiencing trouble shifting or problems getting in gear, on top of other things such as low trans. fluid, or clutch problems, it may be time to replace your shift linkage bushings...

The shift linkage is defined as 'the system of cables, levers, rods, etc. that connects the shift lever (shifter) to the gear box in order to transmit forward motion.'
So obviously the 'shift linkage bushings' are what connects these things to make the system work. Over time, through heavy use, these can become worn out and need replaced. Here is how you do it...

First things first you'll need some tools:

1. Standard flat head screwdriver
2. Standard phillips head screwdriver
3. Standard socket wrench w/ extension and 13mm, 8mm, and 10mm sockets
4. 10mm wrench
5. Needle nose pliers
6. Channel locks

Step 1.
Removing the center console and shifter

To access the shift linkage located under the shifter you must first remove all the screws located within the center console. There are one in each of the front cup holders, and four located inside the console, making a total of six.




Once removed, place the screws in a location where you will not loose them. (It is common practice to place the shifter in fourth gear and have the parking brake engaged in order to pull out the center console, but you will have to place the car in neutral in order to properly line up both linkages to the shifter, so be sure to do this on level ground.) You will then need to remove the shifter knob, in most cases the stock knob will simply pull off, and the shifter boot. Be careful when removing as to not break the boot's anchors.


Pulling out the console is relatively easy, lifting up from back to front. Once pulled, the shift linkage will be completely exposed allowing you to examine the bushings located underneath the shifter. It should be relatively simple to judge whether these bushings are worn out or not. Next you will need to remove the three nuts holding the shifter in place. You will need to use the 8mm socket here, once removed place the nuts where you will not lose them.


Now you will need to pop off the old bushings from the connecting shifter linkage, this can be done by hand or using a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to break the plastic bushing receiver. To remove the bushing from the housing you will need to use needle nose pliers, grab the bushing by placing each of the ends of the pliers in opposite bushing holes, gently squeeze, and pull until the bushing removes itself. Replace the bushings and use the channel locks to gently squeeze the bushing back into place, where it meets the shifter linkage grommet flush. Then just backtrack your steps to complete this part of the installation. (Here is a picture of the replaced bushings)




Step 2.
Changing the bushings atop the transmission.

When trying to replace the shift linkage bushings located on the top of the transmission the first thing that must be removed is your CAI (cold air intake) and sensors. All you will need to do this is a flat head screwdriver to loosen up the clamps connecting your CAI to the turbo, head, vacuum lines, and the sensor. Once removed, pull your CAI out, begin to remove the battery.

Once the CAI and battery are removed you will need to then remove the battery tray.


To do this:
1) Remove the battery retensioner plate located on the back to the tray

2) Remove the line cluster arm pin located on the front of the battery tray

3) Then remove the four bolts that hold the tray itself in place

Once the tray has been pulled, you will be able to see the two linkage arms that sit on top of the transmission. You will need to pull these bushings out in the same fashion that you did the others. (or in my case there wasn't any of the bushing left to replace.)


When properly replaced it should look like this:


Now just back track your steps and marvel at the difference in feel of the shift



Here are the stock bushings just for you to see.
When replacing I personally prefer Booger Bushings, you can find them here at Modern Performance.
Booger Shift Linkage Bushings 03-05 Neon SRT / 03-07 PT Cruiser GT - 03-05 Dodge SRT4 Drivetrain Parts, Clutches, Axles, Short Throw Shifters, Booger

Good Luck, Thanks.
FiRnoEvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-09-2010, 03:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
emanuelcurly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Member Number: 79089
Location: Albany
Posts: 465
Default

Great How to Broo!!!! ! Should u see a day and night difference after installed?
emanuelcurly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2010, 10:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
FiRnoEvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member Number: 77147
Location: Marion, NC
Posts: 62
Default

Quote: Originally Posted by emanuelcurly View Post
Great How to Broo!!!! ! Should u see a day and night difference after installed?

Thanks man and yes its a crazy difference in the feel of the shift. nice and tight, crisp and clean.
FiRnoEvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 10:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
emanuelcurly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Member Number: 79089
Location: Albany
Posts: 465
Default

Quote: Originally Posted by FiRnoEvO View Post
Thanks man and yes its a crazy difference in the feel of the shift. nice and tight, crisp and clean.

Yeaa!!! I Just got mines From Maperformance.com. I will be doing them this weekend.I went to back into my parking spot last night and i Couldnt even Get the Car In Reverse! It wouldnt Fall into gear! So this should help and im Also Changing the Tranny fluid to Royal Purple Synchromax.
emanuelcurly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2010, 10:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
FiRnoEvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member Number: 77147
Location: Marion, NC
Posts: 62
Default

that should take care of it. good luck man hit me up if you have any problems with the install
FiRnoEvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2010, 09:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
emanuelcurly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Member Number: 79089
Location: Albany
Posts: 465
Default

Quote: Originally Posted by FiRnoEvO View Post
that should take care of it. good luck man hit me up if you have any problems with the install

WOW! Talk about a night and day difference! I did the shifter bushings, msd coil, fuel pump rewire, and Changed my Tranny fluid to Synchromax! Car feels so much smoother in high rmps shifting issues are gone, and more popping noise from the exhaust!!!! FKN LOVE IT! Cant Wait to get my dsp and exhaust over the winter! Thanks alot FiRnoEvO.
emanuelcurly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2010, 11:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
FiRnoEvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member Number: 77147
Location: Marion, NC
Posts: 62
Default

no problem man glad to help
FiRnoEvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2010, 03:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Member Number: 73280
Location: Louisville
Posts: 556
Default

I can't seem to get the bushings off, no matter what I do. I've tried with needle nose, flat head, etc. It will not come off.
__________________
04 Flame Red -Gone
04 E-blu - 57 trim - SOLD
04 Silver - FP Green powered - SOLD
05 Stone White - DD
ShamWOW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2010, 03:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
Drago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member Number: 65338
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,146
Default

Quote: Originally Posted by ShamWOW View Post
I can't seem to get the bushings off, no matter what I do. I've tried with needle nose, flat head, etc. It will not come off.

its just rubber,,,and you will never use them again....destroy them and then take them off...jajaja taking them off is the easist step...put some elbow grease on it. good luck
Drago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2011, 12:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
Premium Member (Lifetime)
 
myteluze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Member Number: 82927
Location: South Korea
Posts: 1,040
Lifetime Premium Member
Default

I just took a look at my bushings and they seem to be brand new aftermarket red bushings, but I'm still not able to stay in 4th gear, it pops out. The shifter cable also "looks" brand new. When I'm shifting w/o the car on everything sounds fine. The shift to 4th doesn't sound any different than the others. Could this cable still be bad?
__________________
My Build Thread
My Facebook Page
My SRT-4 Facebook Album (public)

Garrett GTX3076R .63AR, Tuner Geeks Manifold, CNCport.com Race Head, Crane 16s, BST Built 8.8:1 Bottom End, Boomba 70mm, BST Built KW Input Shaft/Gears, MagnaFuel 625 EFI, FID 1200cc.
--- old build numbers ---
510whp/455tq @ 25psi on e85
424whp/363tq @ 19psi on 93
myteluze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2011, 12:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
Premium Member (Lifetime)
 
FlameRedDead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member Number: 81420
Location: Dallas
Posts: 16
Lifetime Premium Member
Default

The problem with 4th sounds like a synchro issue be sure to take care of these soon! I had bought my car used from a dealer like that and 3rd was the issue. It did it most on the down shift but a couple of times on upshift. Could also be input shaft is missing teeth. This issue always gets worse. I found out the hard way. Got on it one day and boom no gears. The issue got out of control and the input shaft became shrapnel.. 2500 dollars later nobody but I work on my car. haha wonder if they have a synchro replacement how-to?

Anyone agree with this?
__________________

zoom a zoom zoom
FlameRedDead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2011, 12:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
Premium Member (Lifetime)
 
FlameRedDead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member Number: 81420
Location: Dallas
Posts: 16
Lifetime Premium Member
Default

They also have a transmission removal video on you tube for our cars and loads of how tos for dropping the whole tranny for clutch replacement and what have you.. That is if you are feeling brave and have the time.
__________________

zoom a zoom zoom
FlameRedDead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2011, 06:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
Premium Member (Lifetime)
 
myteluze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Member Number: 82927
Location: South Korea
Posts: 1,040
Lifetime Premium Member
Default

Sigh. Yeah I do feel brave after reading reading the 3/4 gear replacement howto on here. Our transmission seems incredibly easy to work on. I would have no issues *replacing* the gearset. But repairing is something I can't do. I don't even have a garage, no tools, etc. I'm hoping that the new cable I bought fixes it. I also have a perrin short throw shifter, I'm thinking that this could have been part of the reason that the cable *could* be bad. We'll see...
__________________
My Build Thread
My Facebook Page
My SRT-4 Facebook Album (public)

Garrett GTX3076R .63AR, Tuner Geeks Manifold, CNCport.com Race Head, Crane 16s, BST Built 8.8:1 Bottom End, Boomba 70mm, BST Built KW Input Shaft/Gears, MagnaFuel 625 EFI, FID 1200cc.
--- old build numbers ---
510whp/455tq @ 25psi on e85
424whp/363tq @ 19psi on 93
myteluze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 09:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
SRT4SINA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member Number: 30904
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 2,840
Default

Quote: Originally Posted by ShamWOW View Post
I can't seem to get the bushings off, no matter what I do. I've tried with needle nose, flat head, etc. It will not come off.

A good trick to get them off is to use the pin that the bushing attaches to pry one side of the bushing out from the back. They come off like a nice breeze. Lube the pins as well to sit the booger bushings much easier on the pins.

The result: Car shifts like butter and better than ever before. The transmission is actually solid now!

__________________
<--------------------------------Twisties Freak.



PCM Controlled Boost
SRT4SINA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2011, 01:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
SRTforums Member
 
FiRnoEvO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member Number: 77147
Location: Marion, NC
Posts: 62
Default

Glad to help everyone here.
__________________
BWoody Solid Motor & Trans Mounts/ AEM CAI/ Aftermarket Boost Gauge/ Snow Performance Meth Kit/ RFL BOV/ Stage 1/ BWoody Axles/ Aftermarket WGA/ 3" Down Pipe
-------------------
Carolina SRT
100+ Mile Club

"Embrace The Hate"
FiRnoEvO is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:33 PM.



(C) SRTforums.com

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2