I haven't seen a how-to on this one and it seems like a fairly common fix. So here goes...
Things you will need:
1/2" Breaker bar and ratchet
3/8" ratchet (long handle micro-click)
1/4" ratchet with extension and 10mm socket
1/2" 19mm deep-well (for lug nuts, substitute your size), and 21mm (or 22mm for lower motor mount bolt, I forgot which already)
3/8" 15mm shallow-well socket
18mm wrench
15mm wrench
T-55 Torx male socket
Long flat screwdriver/long prybar/push clip tool
Serpentine belts, belt tensioner, floor jack, jack stand or blocks, and about a 1' 2x6
Some anti-seize, I use nuclear grade N-5000 btw:
you'll need one of these:
and also some extra tools for throwing when things aren't going your way.
Some things you don't need are crushed garages and tools that suck.
Estimated time is anywhere between 1 hour and 2.5 hours if you have problems.
This is not a technically difficult process, but it can be frustrating due to the location of the tensioner.
Torque specs and belt tension specs can be found in the shop guide. Search the site for the download if you don't already have it.
First you will want to put the passenger side on a jackstand or block and remove the passenger wheel. Then remove the splashguard by removing the three 10mm screws and the two plastic push fasteners.
When you get the splash guard off and slide under the car, this should be your view.
PLEASE NOTE: Look at the routing of the PS/AC belt. Take a pic if you need to. It's possible to get the belt nearly on in the wrong path.
Here you can see the 15mm bolt on the tensioner pulley itself and also the bottom alternator hinge bolt. To remove the PS and A/C belt. Put the box end of the 15mm wrench on the pulley bolt and push toward the passenger seat. This takes tension off the belt and you can slide it off the tensioner pulley. With that belt off you can go after the alternator belt. I was freezing and didn't have the extra time so I didn't replace mine. But all you would have to do is loosen the bottom alternator hinge bolt, then loosen the lock nut on the top of the alternator. Looking down at the alternator it would be near the back top pointing at the passenger wheel. The adjustment bolt is in the back top of the alternator pointing at the firewall. When I do my timing belt this summer I'll take more pics and update this section for clarity.
The attachment bolt for the tensioner is almost totally obscured. If you park your head directly under the windshield washer reservoir and look at the tensioner, you can barely see part of the bolt. I snapped this shot from above showing the ratchet and 15mm socket on the bolt.
It's possible to take the bolt out, but unless you have baby hands, you'll never be able to put the new tensioner in and start the bolt back in. There is enough room to get the ratchet on the bolt and start it to loosen, but you will run out of room backing the bolt out and get your ratchet stuck.
At this point, position the floor jack with the 2x6 on it under the oil pan. Jack it up until there is a little weight on the jack. Then remove the three motor mount bolts. The top is an 18mm you will need a wrench for, and careful of the A/C lines. The middle bolt is behind a plastic cap accessible from the wheel well. This one requires finesse and the T-55 torx bit. The bottom bolt is the 21mm (22mm?) and you may need the breaker bar.
Once the motor mount bolts are out, carefully lower the jack about 2-3 inches. Someone mentioned to me that you can raise the engine to the point where the turbo hits the firewall and then get the bolt out from the top, but I think lowering the engine puts less strain on things. There should be a little more wiggle room near the tensioner bolt even though it's still covered by the frame rail. Use the long handled micro-click 3/8" with the 15mm socket and get it on the end of the bolt from the underside. NOTE: with some length sockets, the ratchet may contact the pulley on the tensioner and interfere when loosening. I chipped a piece off mine. Only turn the bolt a few revolutions and then make sure you can get the ratchet back off. You might need to work at it with the wrench for a few turns until you can get it out with your fingers.
You will need to re-use the attachment bolt for the new tensioner. Put a little anti-seize on the bolt end before you put it back in, this might help threading by hand a little.
After the new tensioner is in and tight, you can reconnect the motor mounts. I would try the center first. Raise the engine back up until the thread hole is visible through the wheel well. You might need to rock the engine a bit to get the bolt started. Then attach the top mount, and lastly , the bottom mount. I used a little more anti-seize on the bolt ends to help them come back out some day.
Install the new belts and tension. Install the splash guard and the wheel. Drop the car and start her up.
If you have been careful and didn't get dirt or grease on the new belts you should be fine. If you notice a squeak, you can spray the belts and pulleys with belt dressing.
Hope I helped, any comments and suggestions are appreciated. I will try and update the alternator belt section with pics soon.
How-To: Replace Serpentine Belts/Tensioner
Well done my friend!
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