How-To: Replace Outer Tie-Rods
Removal:
1) Jack up car (obviously)
2) Remove tire
3) Take note of where the backing-nut is placed to keep alignment in check once new outer tie-rod is installed. I used a sharpie to mark it (it's the nut on the end of the outer tie-rod neck, closest to the transmission).
4) Loosen the backing-nut. The driver's side must be turned right to break free, the passenger side must be turned right, too).
5) Break the nut free on the bottom of the knuckle that holds the end of the tie-rod into it.
6) Take a tie-rod separator tool and slowly pry the tie-rod out of the knuckle.
7) Spin the old outer tie-rod off of the inner tie-rod.
Installation:
1) Get Moog replacements (stronger and better than direct OEM replacements). They're like $17 at Advanced Auto Parts with a 1 year warranty.
2) Put grease cap (supplied) into the top of the outer tie-rod and use a grease gun to insert a moderate amount of grease.
3) Put the Moog replacement onto the inner tie-rod and spin it on.
4) Rotate the backing-nut up against the Moog replacement so it's lined up with the mark you made earlier for alignment purpose, but do not tighten it just yet.
5) Put the other end of the Moog replacement into the knuckle and put the crow-nut on the bottom. Make sure you add some high strength threadlocker.
6) Tighten the crown-nut on the bottom to 55 ft-lbs and put the cotter pin through the hole at the end of the bolt and wrap it around the crown-nut.
7) Tighten the backing-nut snugly against the outer-tie rod, again, taking note of where you made your alignment mark.
8) Put tires back on and torque lug-nuts to 100 ft-lbs.
If all goes as planned, your alignment should be spot on again. I have done this a few times and the alignment has never been off. If it is, get an alignment done so you don't ware your tires faster.
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