HOW-TO: Remove & Install Oil Pump - SRT Forums

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-13-2008, 09:03 PM

Ok here is a removal and install if you have questions or confused just ask me.. This is the removal part.
Difficulty: medium to hard. Requires you to set engine timing and installing oil pump. Critical part to engine start up
Time required: A weekend preferably about 6 hours for me i would go say 6-10hours.
Tools needed: 8mm-21mm sockets deep or regular size i used both. Screwdrivers flat head really only one needed. 8mm-19mm box wrenches i have ratcheting ones to make removal and install faster. 3 ton jaw puller or special Mopar Underdrive pulley remover. Mopar oil pump gear remover (SPECIAL TOOL 6793) . Impact wrench 1/2in drive. 1/2in drive breaker bar. 1/2in drive torque wrench 20-150ft lbs. white motor assembly lube to prime oil pump.

Jack up the car then remove the right side splash shield exposing the pulley. You will need a 15mm box wrench to loosen the tensioner for the power steering/ac belt. Then you will need 15mm socket to loosen the back bolt to the alternator. This will allow it to move forwards and backwards. loosen it enough to pull it towards you and take the belt off. Next take the upper motor mount off. The bolts are 18mm. There are two ways to take the pulley off. #1 is get a 3-ton 3jaw puller take a impact with a 19mm socket loosen the pulley bolt out. Put the three jaws on the inside of the pulley closest to the center. Center the jaw bolt to the bolt on the center of the pulley bolt. You can turn it with a breaker bar until it gets tight make sure the puller is on there and center. Take a impact make sure its going clockwise and slowly pull it off the crank until it comes off. Loosen the center bolt to the crank/pulley out a little more to get it further off the crank. #2 is take the Mopar puller it has 3 rods use the 2nd longest one. take the center pulley bolt completely out put that rod in there. put the puller jaws on the puller. The puller has 3 magnets that slide on the jaws to keep it from slipping off the puller. Turn it with a breaker bar until it is tight to make sure it will not come off. Take the impact and turn it until the pulley comes off. I have tried both methods #2 is hell of alot easier. For those who have the timing belt covers those bolts are 10mm i think one or two might be 8mm. Take as many as you can out since you need to take the center and lower motor mounts out to get to the rest. Now take a jack and support the engine you can support it on the oil pan by the oil cooler or by the lower motor mount. its part of the block that sticks out put the jack there its where the bolt goes through,but i would recommend the oil pan. To take out the lower mount you need a 21mm for the big bolt and the other bolt is a 15mm to loosen it up. Now the engine has to be supported now and use a block of wood put on jack and support it by the oil pan. There is a small cap pop that out there is a torx bit. This is a T-55 torx bit. Jack up the block slightly to take weight off of bolt. then take bolt out. Next part is the center bracket this is a PITA!!! You need 15mm box wrench and short socket. If you have ratcheting box wrench that would help you out greatly. There is 3 large bolts you also have to take 2 of 3 power steering bolts out to get this bracket out as well. Those are 10 mm loosen the one and take out the other two. Take out the lower bolt of the bracket first. It will not come out yet just pull it out far enough. Then jack up the block really high to get the second bolt. You need to get it high enough to get a socket on to the bolt so you need to jack it up so your wrench don't hit the frame. Then take out the third bolt hold the bracket up and maneuvering this thing is a (PITA). Jack it up a little higher and move the bracket out from the block. now take the rest of the bolts to the front of the timing belt cover off. You need to loosen the timing belt now..MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT AT TDC WHEN REMOVING BELT turn the crank using the crank bolt from the 12 o'clock to about 3 o'clock position. first some of the tensioner's use either a 1/4 drive wrench or a 6mm hex key loosen the tensioner to the right that will take out tension for the belt. Loosen the bolt on the tensioner as well. It is a 15mm take a 17mm socket and loosen the idler pulley (don't take it off) then take the timing belt off from the water pump. (thats the easiest). Lower the engine and support the block from the corner where the lower motor mount bolts to. You will need to take off the hot side pipe. Next take the dust cover off that goes to the transmission. (some oil pan bolts are behind it) you need to take off three big bolts 2 silver and 1 black one. they are 18mm. I am talking about the bracket that sits on the forward side of the block by the crank sensor.

then there are 3 small bolts that are 15mm as well take those out and the bracket comes out. Take the silver bolt out on the dust cover you will see want im talking about. Then you need a 10 mm deep socket and extension to get the 13 bolts out. for the oil pan. Now take off the oil filter/cooler bracket. Three 8mm bolts hold that up. Take that off then drop the oil pan. Now we can work on getting the oil pump off. Unbolt the 1 bolt going to the oil pick up tube and take that off. Now you need the special oil pump gear puller to remove the gear. If you have it then i would take a old head bolt cut off the head of it about 3/4 inch so you can insert the bolt in the crank.

so the bolt is flush with the crank like in this picture.

Take the oil pump gear puller and put the 3 bolts in the puller and on to the gear. Tighten the bolts down, (make sure they are even or the bolts will strip) if they do strip coil bolts are the same size and little longer. Slowly put tension on the puller using a 21mm socket then tighten the small bolts. Have a friend keep the crank from moving jam a rubber mallet or breaker bar to keep crank from moving.(look at the gear the small notch is about 1/4inch away from the notch on the crank so make sure the gear is a little further out and not flush with the notch on the crank. If you don't do that you will not get the timing belt on or keep it from rubbing on the oil pump. This means putting the gear puller back on there and pulling it until its a 1/4inch out. This applies to when installing it but i want you to look at it and see where it is positioned) you want to remove this gear with a breaker bar. Impact will tear those small bolts up and you wont go anywhere. Turn it to the right keep turning it until you hear like a pop/snap noise. That means you loosened the oil pump gear then turn that sucker it should move hell of alot faster. Take the gear off. Rake off the bolts that go to the pump. There will be 7 they should be 13mm.

There should be a lower timing belt cover to take off as well. Take out the seal that goes to the oil pump.Use a screw driver you should have a new seal. When you take out the pump you might need to move it clockwise or counter clockwise to get the oil gear in right position to remove it from the crank. You will see on the crank there is a TDC indication when you put the new oil pump on there make sure the crank is at TDC IT is important to do that.

. Well you can see that i have the balance shaft chain removed you look on the approved how-to's to see on the removal. Or just simply remove the chain by cutting it with a dremel tool and removing the plastic tensioner's from the balance shaft assembly. Look on my pic here:

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-13-2008, 09:15 PM

Now you have your new oil pump and oil pump gaskets. One that goes on the front of the pump and there will be a red one that goes to the back side.

Now what i did next is to prime the oil pump. To do this you need a tube of white assembly lube. Do this or the oil pump will have air bubbles and will not pick up oil at all and your car will seize. Squeeze as much as you can inside the pick up hole (thats where the oil pick up goes). Put some on your finger and jam it in there until there is no air bubbles pack it in there tight. Look on the second pic

I put a small dab of black rtv on the red gasket to hold it in place. Put a little oil to help make a seal. Now you need to buy red Mopar Anaerobic sealer. It goes on the aluminide to cast steel mating surfaces so you need to apply sealer on the oil pump to ensure a proper seal. See here

rtv will not work ...Make sure the crank is at TDC then put the oil pump on there. The front gasket gets installed. Torque oil pump to block bolts to 20 ft lbs

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-13-2008, 09:34 PM

Bolt the pick up to the pump make sure you put your new gasket on the pick up tube in this pic.torque to 200in lbs

(don't worry the grease will dissolve when the motor starts running) then install the gear like i said "in above" not too far in or your going to mess it up. Use a 24 mm or a big socket to fit around the crank and tap the socket with a mallet until you get the gear 1/4 from it being flush with the notch. See pic

use a little wd-40 or a small amount of molly bead grease to help get the gear in. make sure the oil pump gear is at TDC i marked the TDC arrow with a yellow paint pen. Next put some black rtv sealant on the oil pan gasket so it don't leak. Bolt up the oil pan to block torque to 105in lbs. Then the oil filter/cooler. You can leave the timing covers on or off its up to you. Next is the timing belt. Put it on the oil pump gear first then around the tensioner. then on the cam gears. (this is a delicate operation and takes practice to get it right.) The intake has to be 1/2 a tooth above the exhaust gear. You will need a 18mm box wrench on the exhaust gear. Once you have the belt on the gear have a extra hand and hold the crank at TDC.Now turn the exhaust gear to the right until its about 1/2 notch below the intake gear(Never at any time turn the crank counter clockwise this will mess up your engine) loosen the idler pulley then slide the belt on from the water pump. Once on then tighten the idler pulley . Keeping the crank at tdc because it will move when you move the belt.. The reasoning is when you tighten in the tensioner the gear will pull its self up about 1/2 notch then your timing is usually right on. sometimes you might have to hold the exhaust gear to the left when you tighten the tensioner. It usually takes me a couple tries to get it.(over tightening could mess up the tensioner or over tightening it could cause the belt to be uneven and rub against the block. (seen that happen before) keep a eye on the crank make sure its at TDC and look at the timing make sure its right. TO ENSURE YOUR CAR IS AT TDC TURN THE CRANK CLOCKWISE 2 FULL TURNS AND LOOK AT THE NOTCHES if its at tdc the intake and exhaust cams are dead on. so you did it right. this pic is before you tighten the tensioner to show 1/2 notch below the intake.

Then install the motor mount bracket. Jack up the engine way high up again put the two big bolts on the upper part of the bracket and tighten them. Put the power steering pump bolts in and tighten them up. When lower the motor enough to get the lower bolt in and tighten it. Next is the center motor mount bolt. Jack it up until its level and you can see the bolt hole. Have a extra hand or two pull the engine to the front of the car until you see the hole and put the bolt in. Put it in there best you can hand tight. If it gets difficult jack it up or down ever so slightly see if that helps the tension. Next is tighten it up. You can remove the jack from the engine then install the motor mounts and pulley. Use a mallet to put the pulley back on the crank and put the belts on. Take the fuel pump relay out and disconnect the coil. crank the engine a few times to get it primed then put it back in and fire it up.

westrock · 01-15-2008, 02:44 PM

Good work.

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-15-2008, 06:16 PM

thanks alot!

it was alot of writing. i could only post up 5 pics at a time so thats why i split it up in three parts. anything you see i need to edit at all?

uncommon© · 01-15-2008, 06:21 PM

good write up

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-15-2008, 06:26 PM

thanks uncommon

i looked on your how-to for the LCA bushings. i plan on buying the bushings kit tommorow. i just need to buy a torch.

uncommon© · 01-15-2008, 06:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey69

thanks uncommon

i looked on your how-to for the LCA bushings. i plan on buying the bushings kit tommorow. i just need to buy a torch.

go to home depot, that's where i got mine ... it was like $15 or so

just don't install the bushings upside down like i did

.... those damn bushings would only fit in there the way i did it so i figured i was reading the instructions wrong lol

btw, i may have to buy a DCR oil pump now that there's a how to on it lol ... i didn't know how to do the oil pump before but this willl make it easy

GreaseMonkey69 · 01-15-2008, 10:33 PM

yea this is my 3rd oil pump install. not that they failed just i spun a rod bearing and punched it through the block so i have done two pumps and did 1more one for dj2. it gets easy after you do it a few times lol. yea i saw that post the guy said you had your stuff upside down

. well im glad this will help out people on installs down the road.