OH another question.. In the Service Manual it states this..
(3) Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate
crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing
aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket
(trailing edge of sprocket tooth) (Fig. 132).
According to your how-to, you said that the engine shouldn't be at TDC it should be at about 3 oclock?? Why the discrepancy?
Ok, so maybe I'm trying to simplify things and I'm sorry if I missed the reasoning but I'm to the point where I need to take off the crank pulley.. Can you please explain why I need to take this off in the first place?? I'm having a bitch of a time getting it off because I don't have the 3 prong jaw thingy you're talking about...
Also, if I'm just taking the cams off the way they are.. do I really need to be concerned with timing? I'm just going to be putting them back on the way they are now all I want to do is get a new gasket in there.
Thanks again
well are you replacing the timing belt? can you see the oil pump/crank sprocket and the arrows on the oil pump husing and the arrow on the pump/crank sprocket? if you can you can leave the timing belt on and don't have to remove the underdrive pulley. this is made so if your removing the timing belt i put the steps in there. i would move it out of the way. just keep oil and coolant away form the belt. and try not to damage the belt teeth. you will be good.
when you loosen the tension on the timing belt tensioner, the cams will move (exhaust gear will move up) so then timing will be slightly off. do you have the timing belt covers on?? if you do you will have to remove the cam gears. (to remove the back timing cover.) loosen the bolts on the cams while there is tension on the belt. you will have to have a another person hold the crank bolt in place while you loosen the cam bolts. use just enough to break the torque on them so when you have to remove the cams it will be easier on you. use a long box wrench don't use a impact wrench you will damage the dowels on the cams and possible ruin the bolts too.
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DBB 50Trim devilsown and diablosport with a few supporting mods
well are you replacing the timing belt? can you see the oil pump/crank sprocket and the arrows on the oil pump husing and the arrow on the pump/crank sprocket? if you can you can leave the timing belt on and don't have to remove the underdrive pulley. this is made so if your removing the timing belt i put the steps in there. i would move it out of the way. just keep oil and coolant away form the belt. and try not to damage the belt teeth. you will be good.
when you loosen the tension on the timing belt tensioner, the cams will move (exhaust gear will move up) so then timing will be slightly off. do you have the timing belt covers on?? if you do you will have to remove the cam gears. (to remove the back timing cover.) loosen the bolts on the cams while there is tension on the belt. you will have to have a another person hold the crank bolt in place while you loosen the cam bolts. use just enough to break the torque on them so when you have to remove the cams it will be easier on you. use a long box wrench don't use a impact wrench you will damage the dowels on the cams and possible ruin the bolts too.
So I guess the question is whether or not I want to do the timing belt.. I don't know the car only has like 23,000 miles on it so I'm wondering if there really is a need to do this at this time.. If i can save the hassle of taking the crank off then I might just leave it for now..
I didn't realize I couldn't use a impact wrench on the cam bolts, good thing you mentioned this.. I got the front timing cover off but obviously the back one is still on.. I don't think the cam bolts should be too much of an issue.. Thanks a lot again.. I wish you were closer.
OH another question.. In the Service Manual it states this..
(3) Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate
crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing
aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket
(trailing edge of sprocket tooth) (Fig. 132).
According to your how-to, you said that the engine shouldn't be at TDC it should be at about 3 oclock?? Why the discrepancy?
on the removal keep it at the 12'o clock position so there is no load on the valve springs on cylinder#1. when installing it put the crank at the 3 o'clock position so none of the pistons interfere when your putting the head gasket on or bolting the head to the block. after you have the head bolts on and torqued. turn the crank 2 times around and stop at the 12 o'clock position the block is at TDC now.
So I guess the question is whether or not I want to do the timing belt.. I don't know the car only has like 23,000 miles on it so I'm wondering if there really is a need to do this at this time.. If i can save the hassle of taking the crank off then I might just leave it for now..
I didn't realize I couldn't use a impact wrench on the cam bolts, good thing you mentioned this.. I got the front timing cover off but obviously the back one is still on.. I don't think the cam bolts should be too much of an issue.. Thanks a lot again.. I wish you were closer.
well timing belts should be done at least every 75,000 miles or i did it when i rebuilt my motor. 23K miles your belt should be in good shape.
yea impact wrench is no bueno on cam bolts. just do what i posted and you should be good man! you can leave the timing covers off or put them on there the option is up to you. if you leave them off then put the cam gears on the cams make sure they say 2.4L on the front put them on and tighten the bolt down the best you can until you get them in the car.
duplicolor 500 degree aluminum paint. i sprayed a good medium coat to make it tacky. you can use the copper paint (the stuff most v-8 builders use it becomes tacky and stays tacky so you can install the head gasket.)
ok, this is a bad ass write up. I have a motor in my garage that I am building and I just about blew a vain until I read this. After I take out the 10 15mm bolts, does the engine separate after that? I cant pull it apart and want to make sure that I doing everything correct at this point. The only thing I am missing is the pry bar idea and I dont not want to beef it up so soon
thanx man it took me a looong time putting it together
yea once you take the head bolts out and you have removed everything else on the head in my write up those 10 bolts are the only thing holding it together.
ok, so im putting my cam caps back on and im alittle lost as to were exactly to put the rtv on the end caps......
Go to the howto forum and check out the pdf manuals. It actually tells you exactly where it goes with a diagram and all. Be sure to use the red stuff from mopar as well thats for aluminum surfaces.
Great thread revived.... I'm starting my build tomorrow, but I need to know which RTV to use on the bed plate. The guy at a parts store told me black, I checked other forums and they said green, some also said red/pink and to not use blue cause it sucks, which one is the correct one and also what can I use as a sub encase I can't find the correct one? Thanks all.
I dont know for sure as I never did it but I would use the highest heat range stuff you can get. The red from Mopar I used in several areas such as the oil pump and the cam holders fwiw. Never even heard of green stuff.
Did you check the service manual? Im sure it says which to use
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rtv?
Linear Mode
