nice detail, but qiuck ques, i have seen some topics on the timming marks, so you saying it has to be 1/2 tooth on the exhaust side, not even with the intake, once you have tighting the tenior...
yea intake 1/2 tooth above the exhaust cam after you tighten the tensioner. best way is because sometimes the exhaust gear will move when you take tension off of it. what i do is take a 18mm box wrench and pull the intake gear 1/2 notch above the exhaust and i hold the gear there with my other hand on the belt then i get a extra person to tighten the tensioner. when the tensioner tightens up the exhaust gear moves upwards slightly about 1/2 tooth to make the intake match the exhaust. it is a delicate process and takes time to do. first time i replaced a timing belt took me 30 min to do it. and the mopar manual for the cars specify the intake having to be 1/2 tooth above the exhaust before tightening the tensioner. a friend said he would do the timing belt while i install the valve cover. i did not check it he left the intake cam a full tooth above exhaust it was loping pretty good until i checked timing and it was 1 tooth off. with the 1 tooth above my car would be 6 degrees advanced on intake side. on a side note when tightening the tensioner and setting the timing belt you have to hold the crank at TDC or your car will not start. make sure the two arrow's line up. have someone hold it with a breaker bar and a extension with one hand and tighten the tensioner.
__________________
DBB 50Trim devilsown and diablosport with a few supporting mods
Last edited by GreaseMonkey69 : 01-22-2010 at 01:10 AM.
very good writeup man but one thing to add.. fyi anyone trying to do this that has an aftermarket tranny mount.. you cannot get enough flex in that to get the mounting brackets off.. you risk breaking off the tabs on the tranny.. put the stock tranny mount back on first and you will have all the flex you need.
that is also a good point NASTY_NAS. thanks for the info. what also helped me i have a mac tool looks like a ratcheting box wrench the socket fit inside of it which is a 15mm and gives me enough room to loosen the bolt with out having to lift the motor as high. i do understand the motor mount thing thats good thinking there.
very good writeup man but one thing to add.. fyi anyone trying to do this that has an aftermarket tranny mount.. you cannot get enough flex in that to get the mounting brackets off.. you risk breaking off the tabs on the tranny.. put the stock tranny mount back on first and you will have all the flex you need.
Quoted for truth. I just did the removal side of things last night...I just about broke some stuff when moving the motor around that much because I forgot I had a solid tranny mount. I did manage to get everything out without breaking anything on the tranny, but it was very close if I had jacked it up any higher.
I have to say thanks a lot for this write up as this was what I used as a guide when I had to change my rod bearings this week. This made the process a simple streamlined operation instead of just pulling a bunch of stuff apart that didn't need to be. One thing I want to add that made it easier is on both O2 sensors, forget unscrewing them, just unplug them and leave it in the downpipe and in the O2 housing. I installed my 3 inch O2 housing while I had the head off and just switched the O2 sensor over outside of the car. This made it much easier. Thanks again for the writeup!
__________________
2004 Flame Red SRT-4 - 14.298 @ 95.5 - Stock
K&N Filter, DCR Oil Mod, Chargepipe Mod, DIY Hotside Pipe, In-Car Bleed Valve, 180º T-Stat, Prothane MM Inserts, Rage Shifter Bushings, ES Front LCA, Sway and End Links. Werks Shift Selector & 3rd Extender.
hey man your welcome i wanted to incorporate everything i can to make it easier and faster for people so they don't think it is such a headache to remove the head.
I must add to this, the removal/install can be done with a solid transmission mount, but it makes removing and installing the middle motor mount a VERY time consuming and anger-causing task.
i don't think so. removing my center bolt with a aftermarket tranny mount was not a problem. don't understand how you have any problems with it.
__________________
U N D I S P U T E D
The best engine in the world is the vagina, it takes any size piston, its self lubricating, starts with 1 finger, and every 4 weeks does its own oil change. It's just a pity the management system is so fucking temperamental.
yea you have to remove the cams to get the head off. you need to remove them to get to the head bolts there are 10 head bolts. as for your other question i would leave the exhaust manifold on the head, but take the turbo and o2 housing off. well for my way of thinking is all of that weight on the back side of the head with out the bolts being torqued your torque might be off and your head might not seal correctly.
yea you have to remove the cams to get the head off. you need to remove them to get to the head bolts there are 10 head bolts. as for your other question i would leave the exhaust manifold on the head, but take the turbo and o2 housing off. well for my way of thinking is all of that weight on the back side of the head with out the bolts being torqued your torque might be off and your head might not seal correctly.
Thank you so much for the info and the amazing write up. This will no doubtingly help to make things easier.
thank you both! i am just trying making things easier and give people more confidence in doing their own work! i plan on trying to get a video of setting timing on here to make it even easier!
Ok, so maybe I'm trying to simplify things and I'm sorry if I missed the reasoning but I'm to the point where I need to take off the crank pulley.. Can you please explain why I need to take this off in the first place?? I'm having a bitch of a time getting it off because I don't have the 3 prong jaw thingy you're talking about...
Also, if I'm just taking the cams off the way they are.. do I really need to be concerned with timing? I'm just going to be putting them back on the way they are now all I want to do is get a new gasket in there.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
