Now you have the head off and the exhaust manifold off you want to now put the new exhaust manifold gasket on and bolt the exhaust manifold to the head. make sure you put the part that says manifold to manifold. and head part to head part. Torque to 250in lbs and bolt down in this pattern
Next you can install the turbo on the manifold. Carefully put turbo center housing in the manifold make sure that ring i told you to keep is on there there will be a small nipple on the manifold where the ring can sit on. After installed put the clamp on and tighten down tight but not ridiculous. Next step is taking your new head bolts and soak them in oil. Put them in a bag with some oil and shake them up and have them readily Available like on the car windshield so when you need to put the head bolts on you have them right there. Wipe off the block surface so it is free of oil and coolant. Next step the aluminum paint. Paint both sides of the head gasket with a medium coat of paint let it tack up for about 1min or 2. On the first picture you will see there are numbers this side has to be facing up and the numbers go on the #1 cylinder. Put the head gasket on the block and push it on there.
Now grab the head assembly and put it on the block. You will have to maneuver it around until it falls right in. You will see it kind of seal. It is recommended to have a second set of hands to get the head in the car and to move stuff around to get it on there. Once the head is on there take your head bolts and put them in this order.
Once you have all head bolts in there you need to torque them down to 25ft lbs. in the order shown in the picture. Once all bolts are torqued you need to torque them again to 50 ft lbs. once torqued to 50ft lbs toque again to 50 ft llbs.
once that torque is achieved. you need to take a breaker bar use the same socket with a small extension and turn each bolt a 1/4 turn. do not use your torque wrench for this.
Next pour a little oil in the gallies for the lashers and install the lashers on the head.Put the Rocker/rollers on there as well. You can do two things. leave the timing covers on there or just discard them and save you some time. Put some motor assy lube on the journals of the cams (the parts that spin in the cam caps) and install the cams on the head. make sure the holes are facing up (applies to stock cams cranes and BC cams as well)
this makes sure the #1 cylinder cam as at TDC. with the holes facing upward the lobes on the cams both intake and exhaust make a 'A" shape
Next is installing the cam caps. the end cam caps need a small bead of rtv see this pic]
now look at this pic above when torquing down the cam caps. the small 8mm bolts are torqued to 105 in lbs. the larger 10mm bolts need to be torqued down to 205in lbs.
After torquing the bolts you need to put the new cams oil seals on. the seals are behind the cam gears there are 2 of them. They go in a little easier with a little oil put on them and they should slide right in. Install the cams gears on the cams now. Put the cam gears on and bolt them together with a 18mm box wrench. now i did not have a cam gear tool i wedged a long extension bewteen the head and the cam gear. Torque the bolts to 85Ft lbs. the cams might move a bit but pust them back in thier right position. with the holes facing up
make sure the oil pump gear is at TDC. I marked the TDC arrow with a yellow paint pen.You can leave the timing covers on or off its up to you. Next is the timing belt. Put it on the oil pump gear first then around the water pump.KEEP IT TIGHT TOO.loosen the idler pulley then slide the belt on from the water pump. then move on to the cam gears. (this is a delicate operation and takes practice to get it right.) The intake has to be 1/2 a tooth above the exhaust gear. You will need a 18mm box wrench on the exhaust gear. Once you have the belt on the gear have a extra hand and hold the crank at TDC.(Never at any time turn the crank counter clockwise this will mess up your engine) Keeping the crank at tdc because it will move when you move the belt. Now turn the exhaust gear to the right until its about 1/2 notch below the intake gear. here is what the lines should look like with the intake 1/2 notch above the exhaust before you tighten the tensioner
The reasoning is when you tighten in tensioner the gear will pull its self up about 1/2 notch then your timing is right on. By holding the exhaust cam gear it prevents the gears from moving and helps bring up the slack on the tensioner side to get the timing dead on. The lines will match perfectly. It usually takes me a couple tries to get it.(over tightening could mess up the tensioner or over tightening it could cause the belt to be uneven and rub against the block. (seen that happen before) keep a eye on the crank make sure its at TDC and look at the timing make sure its right. TO ENSURE YOUR CAR IS AT TDC TURN THE CRANK CLOCKWISE 2 FULL TURNS AND LOOK AT THE NOTCHES if its at tdc the intake and exhaust lines will match up almost perfectly. SHOWN IN THIS PIC HERE
i know some people will say they can't get them to line up perfectly. even my car from the factory didn't have the notches match up perfectly. If it looks like the picture below and your timing marks on the oil pan match then you did it perfectly
Then install the motor mount bracket and bolts X3 of them. Jack up the engine way high up again put the two big bolts on the upper part of the bracket and tighten them. here is a vid to help.
---put the back part of the bracket behind the timing belt first before trying to fit the rest of the bracket in. getting around the refridgerant lines and behind the timing belt is the hardest task. thats why i said get that part in first. you can use a small pry bar against the center motor mount and the bracket to give you that little bit of space to get it to slide in. you can also remove the small piece of rubber on the center motor mount to help get the bracket in.
--- Put the power steering pump bolts in and tighten them up. When lower the motor enough to get the lower bolt in and tighten it. Next is the center motor mount bolt. Jack it up until its level and you can see the bolt hole. Have a extra hand or two pull the engine to the front of the car until you see the hole and put the bolt in. Put it in there best you can hand tight. If it gets difficult jack it up or down ever so slightly see if that helps the tension. Next is tighten it up not soo much you strip it about 45-50 ft lbs You can remove the jack from the engine then install the motor mounts. The big lower bolt the 21mm needs to be torqued to 85 ft lbs as well as the upper 18mm bolt to 85 ft lbs. Use a mallet to put the pulley back on the crank and torque to 100ft lbs ,but i used my impact since the motor will try to move if done by hand. Put the ac/power steering belt on then the alternator belt on.