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Old 02-13-2008, 01:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW-TO: Remove & Install Cylinder Head

Ok here is a removal and install if you have questions or confused just ask me..
Difficulty: medium to hard. Requires you to set engine timing and installing cams. critical to engine start up.
Time required: A weekend preferably about 5hours for me. 2 hours removal 3 hours install. maybe 8 for first timers.
Tools needed: zip lock bags. for all the bolts and nuts. duplicolor aluminium high heat 1000 degree spray paint. your color rtv black or blue prefered. 6 in adjustable wrench.cam sprocket holder tool. 8mm-21mm sockets deep or regular size i used both. Screwdrivers flat head really only one needed. 8mm-19mm box wrenches i have ratcheting ones to make removal and install faster. 7/8inch box wrench for the O2 sensors. 3 ton jaw puller or special Mopar Underdrive pulley remover. Impact wrench 1/2in drive. 1/2in drive breaker bar. 1/2in drive torque wrench 20-150ft lbs. White motor assembly lube lubricate journals on cams. Engine oil to lubricate head bolts.
Parts Required: Upper gasket set.(head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, spark plug gaskets, cam gaskets, lower coolant housing gasket) new head bolts X10 of them. Unless you use arps. New timing belt if you choose i would reccomend it. New ac/power steering belts if you choose. I bought these parts from S@P the vendor you choose is up to you.

INTAKE SIDE
First step is disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. For saftey purposes. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Drain plug is right next to where the hot side goes into the intercooler it is a small white plug. Next is removing the front or intake side. Remove your cold side pipe by removing your clamps from your intercooler and your throttlebody. Take out the sensor on the pipe and let it hang. Remove two wire harnesses connected to the throttle body.


remove the vaccum/boost lines connected to the throttle body/spacer.


Remove the throttle cable.Use a 8mm socket or box wrench to take off the throttle cable from the throttle body. disconnect the harness from the map sensor. Remove the fuel rail/injectors from the car. Use adjustable wrench to remove the 2 valve cover bolts. Disconnect the harnesses then disconnect the line going to the rail. use a rag to absorb the gas. Remove the upper coolant housing (10mm bolts).


Leave it connected to coolant pipe or take it off it is up to you. (for people doing this the first time you will have to do this. i removed it) there is a small bracket under the intake manifold that is connected to the manifold with a bolt from the starter. Use a 10 or 12mm sockets to remove that bracket and 2 bolts. I never put it back on (easier to assemble).


Next is take a 10mm socket with extension and remove the 5 bolts holding the manifold to the head, remove intake manifold.


Remove the hose going to lower coolant housing and remove the lower coolant housing using 10mm socket. remove the temp sensor as well. Look to the right of the #4 cylinder port. There is the solid coolant lines. there is a bracket that is bolted to the head.


look at the pic. There is two bolts 1 you can actually see.. 13mm i believe. also the ground you can take off as well it is on the right side of the pic you see that single bolt on the head.
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Exhaust Side

Next steps is the exhaust side. This is for a stock manifold design. First is disconnect the cam sensor from the cam two 8mm bolts and zip lock bag it up.
Look up on previous post where the sensor is.Remove the coil pack connector. Remove the coil 4 of them 10mm bolts. Remove the spark plugs and plug wires. Disconnect the ground on the head by the turbo. remove the ground from the passenger side as well.


use a flat head thats what my bolt is. Removing the upper heat shield is a PITA. To ease in removal i removed the valve cover because i have it painted. to remove the valve cover take a 8mm box wrench for the longer bolts and a 8mm socket for the short ones. Remove the 9 valve cover bolts.


Remove the pcv check valve(put with cam sensor). Remove valve cover (keep valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets incase). You can cover up the cams/head assy with a small trash bag. Rags leave lint. Use a box wrench to remove the 10mm bolts some you can get a socket to to break loose they are hard as hell to remove. Remove the upper O2 housing sensor using the 7/8in box wrench. put it a bag. Next is remove the WGA. Remove the cotter pin and remove the 13mm bolts holding it to the turbo. Next is removing the turbo assy. Use a 17mm box wrench to remove the top oil feed line. These pics are with the head off the car,but i wanted to show you where the bolts are and what they look like.


Remove the banjo fitting and there is two crush washers with it. Next is remove the 2 coolant lines going to the turbo. If you can't get it from behind you will have to go underneath the car. While your under there remove the hot pipe from the turbo. disconnect the two 13mm nuts on the transmission dust cover to remove the hot pipe. Disconnect the hot pipe from the hose going to the hotpipe. Remove the exhaust down pipe. use the 7/8in box wrench to remove the sensors from the exhaust downpipe (put in bag with upper O2 sensor).
i used a impact wrench with a long extension to break the downpipe bolts loose. I have seen bolts be between 10-13mm heads. This should get you acess to the coolant feed/return banjo bolts. Remove them with a 17mm box wrench and make sure to get all 4 crush washers from the two bolts. Remove the turbo drain. Use a 8mm socket to remove it from the turbo or get some vise grips and take the clamp off to get the rubber hose off. Or cut it like i did and buy heavy duty oil approved drain hose. i used my own clamps to make it easier on me. THE BIG PITA is the lower heat shield. I left this off after installing a new head gasket. take off the bolts that go to the heat shield 10mm. Remove the bracket holding up the manifold.
This is when i had the 60 trim on there but i want to show you where you will be looking under the car.


Should be 12mm bolts and 13mm bolts to remove bracket. I used a Air Hammer to cut the lower heat shield a little bit to ease in removing it. Next get a ratchet wrench or impact to remove the o2 housing bolts 10-12mm bolts. Go up top and remove the turbo. remove the clamp it is a 10mm nut. Remove the turbo. BE Carefull dont want to damage the turbo.. There is a thin ring keep that and put it with the clamp and the turbo. Look on the top two pics it shows you the ring you need to keep. Leave the exhaust manifold on the head. This will make it easier for you believe me. Take it off when you remove the head.
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Last edited by GreaseMonkey69; 12-29-2010 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Timing Belt Side

-Next we remove the right side splash shield exposing the pulley. You will need a 15mm box wrench to loosen the tensioner for the power steering/ac belt. Then you will need 15mm socket to loosen the back bolt to the alternator.

Next you need to remove the harmonic balancer which you need a special tool for. DO NOT USE A 3 TON JAW PULLER! i have seen them break and mess up pulleys so please get the right tool for the job.
Take the Mopar puller it has 3 rods use the 2nd longest one. take the center pulley bolt completely out put that rod in there. put the puller jaws on the puller. The puller has 3 magnets that slide on the jaws to keep it from slipping off the puller. Turn it with a breaker bar until it is tight to make sure it will not come off. Take the impact and turn it until the pulley comes off.
It is hell of alot easier using this tool. For those who have the timing belt covers those bolts are 10mm i think one or two might be 8mm. Take as many as you can out since you need to take the center and lower motor mounts out to get to the rest. Now take a jack and support the engine you can support it on the oil pan by the oil cooler or by the lower motor mount. its part of the block that sticks out put the jack there its where the bolt goes through,but i would recommend the oil pan. Here is a Vid


-Next remove the upper motor mount This will allow it to move forwards and backwards. loosen it enough to pull it towards you and take the belt off. Next take the upper motor mount off. The bolts are 18mm.


-Don't forget to remove the coolant temp sensor. you don't want to damage it!


- To take out the lower mount you need a 21mm for the big bolt and the other bolt is a 15mm to loosen it up. Now the engine has to be supported now and use a block of wood put on jack and support it by the oil pan. There is a small cap pop that out there is a torx bit. This is a T-55 torx bit.


-Jack up the block slightly to take weight off of bolt. then take bolt out. Next part is the center bracket this is a PITA!!! You need 15mm box wrench and short socket. If you have ratcheting box wrench that would help you out greatly. There is 3 large bolts you also have to take 2 of 3 power steering bolts out to get this bracket out as well. Those are 10 mm loosen the one and take out the other two. Take out the lower bolt of the bracket first. It will not come out yet just pull it out far enough. Then jack up the block really high to get the second bolt. You need to get it high enough to get a socket on to the bolt so you need to jack it up so your wrench don't hit the frame. Then take out the third bolt hold the bracket up and maneuvering this thing is a (PITA). Jack it up a little higher and move the bracket out from the block.
-now take the rest of the bolts to the front of the timing belt cover off. You need to loosen the timing belt now. These vids will help with the removal of the bracket to acess the timing belt.





-.MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT AT TDC WHEN REMOVING BELT turn the crank using the crank bolt from the 12 o'clock to about 3 o'clock position. first some of the tensioner's use either a 1/4 drive wrench or a 6mm hex key loosen the tensioner to the right that will take out tension for the belt. Loosen the bolt on the tensioner as well. It is a 15mm take a 17mm socket and loosen the idler pulley (don't take it off) then take the timing belt off from the water pump. (thats the easiest). here is a vid


- Lower the engine and support the block from the oil pan spot where the filter housing goes into, but make sure you have a block of wood underneath it.
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Last edited by GreaseMonkey69; 11-18-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Cams/cap Removal Head Removal

next is removing the cams from the head. I removed the cam gears from the cams using a impact wrench if you do not have one you will need to get a cam sprocket holder tool and use a 18mm box wrench or breaker bar to loosen the bolt. They are torqued to 75ft lbs so it will not be a easy bolt to remove. Once cams are removed i removed the rest of the timing cover bolts and removed the timing belt cover. Remove the cam caps on the cams. Work your way from the out side to the inside. take the big end cap by #1 cylinder off first. The bolts are 10mm then take the big cap off of the intake cam by the #4 cylinder and the end cap on the exhaust cam by the #4 cylinder the smaller bolts are 8mm.





Do this until the caps are off. Leave the bolts in the caps so you don't loose them. The caps should be labeled L and R. L being intake and R being exhaust each caps should also have a number 1-6. So arrange them in that order or when you remove the caps place them in the way they came off so there is no confusion. Remove the cams the cam seals you can remove now since they are hanging on the cams. Next is removing rockers/ hydraulic lash adjusters. You need to get a bigger zip lock bag or double bag it and remove the lashers/rockers from the head. There is 4 lashers and 4 rockers per cylinder. So total of 16 of each. pour some oil in the bag with the lash adjusters/rockers to prevent rusting. Same with the cams on the lobes and journals. Removing the head bolts. You will need a breaker bar and a 16mm deep socket a small extension might be required to get to the bolts.I removed the head bolts the same way when you install head bolts it goes in this pattern.
10-6-2-3-7
9-5-1-4-8
Once bolts are out i had to use a pry bar to break the seal to remove the head from the block. Inspect cylinder walls, block surface, wipe it clean with a rag to ensure there is no oil or coolant on the surface of the block. To remove the exhaust manifold use a 10mm socket and box wrench to remove the nuts/studs from the head. The exhaust manifold gasket,intake manifold gasket, head gasket and head bolts are no longer useful anymore you can discard them.
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Install

Now you have the head off and the exhaust manifold off you want to now put the new exhaust manifold gasket on and bolt the exhaust manifold to the head. make sure you put the part that says manifold to manifold. and head part to head part. Torque to 250in lbs and bolt down in this pattern
7-5-1-2-6-8
9-3-----4-10
Next you can install the turbo on the manifold. Carefully put turbo center housing in the manifold make sure that ring i told you to keep is on there there will be a small nipple on the manifold where the ring can sit on. After installed put the clamp on and tighten down tight but not ridiculous. Next step is taking your new head bolts and soak them in oil. Put them in a bag with some oil and shake them up and have them readily Available like on the car windshield so when you need to put the head bolts on you have them right there. Wipe off the block surface so it is free of oil and coolant. Next step the aluminum paint. Paint both sides of the head gasket with a medium coat of paint let it tack up for about 1min or 2. On the first picture you will see there are numbers this side has to be facing up and the numbers go on the #1 cylinder. Put the head gasket on the block and push it on there.


Now grab the head assembly and put it on the block. You will have to maneuver it around until it falls right in. You will see it kind of seal. It is recommended to have a second set of hands to get the head in the car and to move stuff around to get it on there. Once the head is on there take your head bolts and put them in this order.

Once you have all head bolts in there you need to torque them down to 25ft lbs. in the order shown in the picture. Once all bolts are torqued you need to torque them again to 50 ft lbs. once torqued to 50ft lbs toque again to 50 ft llbs.
once that torque is achieved. you need to take a breaker bar use the same socket with a small extension and turn each bolt a 1/4 turn. do not use your torque wrench for this.
Next pour a little oil in the gallies for the lashers and install the lashers on the head.Put the Rocker/rollers on there as well. You can do two things. leave the timing covers on there or just discard them and save you some time. Put some motor assy lube on the journals of the cams (the parts that spin in the cam caps) and install the cams on the head. make sure the holes are facing up (applies to stock cams cranes and BC cams as well) this makes sure the #1 cylinder cam as at TDC. with the holes facing upward the lobes on the cams both intake and exhaust make a 'A" shape

Next is installing the cam caps. the end cam caps need a small bead of rtv see this pic]


now look at this pic above when torquing down the cam caps. the small 8mm bolts are torqued to 105 in lbs. the larger 10mm bolts need to be torqued down to 205in lbs.
After torquing the bolts you need to put the new cams oil seals on. the seals are behind the cam gears there are 2 of them. They go in a little easier with a little oil put on them and they should slide right in. Install the cams gears on the cams now. Put the cam gears on and bolt them together with a 18mm box wrench. now i did not have a cam gear tool i wedged a long extension bewteen the head and the cam gear. Torque the bolts to 85Ft lbs. the cams might move a bit but pust them back in thier right position. with the holes facing up
make sure the oil pump gear is at TDC. I marked the TDC arrow with a yellow paint pen.You can leave the timing covers on or off its up to you. Next is the timing belt. Put it on the oil pump gear first then around the water pump.KEEP IT TIGHT TOO.loosen the idler pulley then slide the belt on from the water pump. then move on to the cam gears. (this is a delicate operation and takes practice to get it right.) The intake has to be 1/2 a tooth above the exhaust gear. You will need a 18mm box wrench on the exhaust gear. Once you have the belt on the gear have a extra hand and hold the crank at TDC.(Never at any time turn the crank counter clockwise this will mess up your engine) Keeping the crank at tdc because it will move when you move the belt. Now turn the exhaust gear to the right until its about 1/2 notch below the intake gear. here is what the lines should look like with the intake 1/2 notch above the exhaust before you tighten the tensioner


The reasoning is when you tighten in tensioner the gear will pull its self up about 1/2 notch then your timing is right on. By holding the exhaust cam gear it prevents the gears from moving and helps bring up the slack on the tensioner side to get the timing dead on. The lines will match perfectly. It usually takes me a couple tries to get it.(over tightening could mess up the tensioner or over tightening it could cause the belt to be uneven and rub against the block. (seen that happen before) keep a eye on the crank make sure its at TDC and look at the timing make sure its right. TO ENSURE YOUR CAR IS AT TDC TURN THE CRANK CLOCKWISE 2 FULL TURNS AND LOOK AT THE NOTCHES if its at tdc the intake and exhaust lines will match up almost perfectly. SHOWN IN THIS PIC HERE


i know some people will say they can't get them to line up perfectly. even my car from the factory didn't have the notches match up perfectly. If it looks like the picture below and your timing marks on the oil pan match then you did it perfectly


Then install the motor mount bracket and bolts X3 of them. Jack up the engine way high up again put the two big bolts on the upper part of the bracket and tighten them. here is a vid to help.


---put the back part of the bracket behind the timing belt first before trying to fit the rest of the bracket in. getting around the refridgerant lines and behind the timing belt is the hardest task. thats why i said get that part in first. you can use a small pry bar against the center motor mount and the bracket to give you that little bit of space to get it to slide in. you can also remove the small piece of rubber on the center motor mount to help get the bracket in.

--- Put the power steering pump bolts in and tighten them up. When lower the motor enough to get the lower bolt in and tighten it. Next is the center motor mount bolt. Jack it up until its level and you can see the bolt hole. Have a extra hand or two pull the engine to the front of the car until you see the hole and put the bolt in. Put it in there best you can hand tight. If it gets difficult jack it up or down ever so slightly see if that helps the tension. Next is tighten it up not soo much you strip it about 45-50 ft lbs You can remove the jack from the engine then install the motor mounts. The big lower bolt the 21mm needs to be torqued to 85 ft lbs as well as the upper 18mm bolt to 85 ft lbs. Use a mallet to put the pulley back on the crank and torque to 100ft lbs ,but i used my impact since the motor will try to move if done by hand. Put the ac/power steering belt on then the alternator belt on.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Install Cont:

Now that the timing side is complete work on your exhaust and intake side. Connect the coolant drain/feed lines on the turbo and torque to 27ft lbs. Same goes with the oil line 27ft lbs. I know you cannot get a torque wrench in there but make sure they are on there tight and kinda gauge what 27ft lbs feels like. Put your turbo oil drain back into the block now. The 8mm bolts to the drain are 105in lbs if you need the torque specs. Bolt on your O2 housing torque to 250in lbs. Install your upper O2 sensor. Bolt on your exhaust make sure you have your gasket for the O2 housing to Down pipe mating surface. Put your heat shields if you want them back on there torques are 250in lbs. put your hot pipe back on the turbo and connect it to your pipe going to the inter cooler.
INTAKE SIDE
You need to put rtv sealant on specific spots on the head to put the valve cover on look at this picture it will show you where to put it and also torque for the valve cover bolts.


Next Install your lower coolant housing with your new gasket. Bolt it up not too tight tight enough to make a seal. Install your intake manifold with your new intake manifold gasket.(make sure all mating surfaces are clean) Torque intake manifold bolts 10mm bolts to 200in lbs. connect vaccum hose under the intake manifold. Connect your throttle cable to your throttle body. 2X 8mm bolts. install your vacuum hoses and cold side pipe. Install your upper coolant housing. I put a little bit of clear silicone to make sure there is not a leak. Install map sensor, injectors injector cover, coil pack NEW SPARK PLUGS i would, spark plug wires your cam sensor and install any other extra parts you might have connected to your car.. FILL your CAR WITH COOLANT! 50/50 or 60/40 or how ever the temp diff is in your area. Squeeze the hose to get air bubbles out. after it is filled start your car drive around to op temperature. Let it cool down and add more trust me you will need to add more since now the block and all the cavity's are filled now.
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 4cefed View Post
Great write-up. One question though, WTF is the aluminum paint for? Does it help the gasket seal better or something? Have you taken one off that you painted? I wonder if the pain will stick to the block or the head.

it helps make a seal between the head and block to help seal it from coolant leaking and loosing compression. no when i removed my head it did not stick to the block or head.
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Stickied.
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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GreaseMonkey69 damn you're good ... i was going to do a HOW TO the next time i took my head off but you just saved me time
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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hell yea thanks believe me it was a assload of time and pictures. im sure this will be a great help.
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a couple quick questions...the aluminum paint - should I use it on a stock style head gasket replacement?

Also, head bolts - are they torque to yield? I'm assuming so since you say to use new ones.

Great writeup, it is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yea on any headgasket. stock 3 layer or even DCR 5 layer spray with aluminum paint to help with the seal. they are torque to yield bolts the only bolts to be reused would be aftermarket head bolts. everytime if i have to remove the head new head bolts go in. because i have over stretched a headbolt and it was not fun taking it out. then i reordered new headbolts.
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Old 02-21-2008, 08:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. I'll be giving s&p a call today to get some bolts from them. This looks like a pain in the ass, but it'll be fun haha.
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Old 02-21-2008, 10:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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nice detail, but qiuck ques, i have seen some topics on the timming marks, so you saying it has to be 1/2 tooth on the exhaust side, not even with the intake, once you have tighting the tenior...
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Old 02-21-2008, 05:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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very good writeup man but one thing to add.. fyi anyone trying to do this that has an aftermarket tranny mount.. you cannot get enough flex in that to get the mounting brackets off.. you risk breaking off the tabs on the tranny.. put the stock tranny mount back on first and you will have all the flex you need.
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