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Old 04-18-2005, 06:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HOW-TO Rear Tension Strut Kit Install

Rear Tension Strut Kit Mopar Part # P4510826




Stock VS/new


What do they do??

Higher durometer bushings virtually eliminates wheel hop under braking for improved suspension control.

Rating 1 -10 For Difficulty

2-3

Tools needed

Jack

1/2" Wratchet

Sockets
21mm Deep
19mm Deep
18mm Deep
15mm

14mm box end wrench

First Jack up rear end of car


Next Remove the Wheel using a 19mm Socket

Next remove the rear 21mm nut from the Tension Strut



I used a impact gun and didn't need to hold the Tension Strut. If you need to hold the Tension Strut you would use a 14mm Open ended wrench.

Once that nut is off take of the washer and bushing.


Next at the other end of the Tension Strut is the bracket for the E-Brake cable

Take the two nuts off 15mm



Once that is off take off the E-Brack bracket and move aside

Next Take off the two studs that hold the Tension Strut to the Chasis.
They are 18mm and you will need a deep socket.



Once that is done you can remove the stock Tension Strut. Repeat the proccess for the new Tension Strut. Torque the chasis studs to 70ft/lbs the 15mm brake line bracket to 250 in/lbs and the rear 21MM Nut to 70 ft/lbs.

Put the wheel back on and torque the Lugs to 95-100 ft/lbs.

Repeat for the other side.

Have fun.
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Last edited by Masssilversrt4 : 04-18-2005 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 04-25-2005, 06:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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so these reaplace the stock ones? I assume they make a big diff on auto X but not so much on drag and daily driving?
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Old 04-25-2005, 07:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Replaces the stock ones.. helps for braking. Eliminates rear wheel hop on hard braking.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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isn't it the same thing as replacing the stock bushings with urethane ones?
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Old 10-16-2005, 12:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great how-to, Masssilversrt4. People like me that usually fix one thing and break another appreciate the pictures.
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Old 10-16-2005, 02:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Wheat_Burner
Thanks for the great how-to, Masssilversrt4. People like me that usually fix one thing and break another appreciate the pictures.

That makes two of us

Thanks for me also!
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Old 02-05-2006, 01:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just used this. Thanks for putting it up.
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Old 03-06-2006, 12:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The stock tension struts look identical to the new ones... Am I missing something? Should they look IDENTICAL?
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Old 03-06-2006, 12:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The difference is in the durometer rating of the bushings. They're stiffer.
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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you can get the same resaltes from getting urethane bushings and putting them in, I just got the master suspetion kit and man did it make a differance in the handling in the car.....
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Old 03-06-2006, 05:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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thanks Jaymzx... I'll put them in tonight
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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what bushings? mine look identiocal and have the smae part number, even the numbers stamped on the big forward bushing are the same. I didn't get and bushings for the back part though...
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Old 05-08-2006, 02:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Mine had identical part numbers, too. If you feel the bushings at where they attach to the frame rails, there is a big difference. My 03 bushings felt like a pink eraser and the new ones felt like a super bounce ball.
You don't get the bushings that attach to the knuckle. You reuse the stockers. Remember, it goes washer, bushing, knuckle, bushing, washer, nut. I screwed that up the first time and had to climb under and redo one side the next day
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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went to discount tire today and they had showed me my back tires and i could set the tire on the ground and it wouldent move because of the flat spots on my tires.
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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???

Don't think that's a torsion strut issue.
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