Yea, I did mine last summer 'cause they stopped working. Good write up!!! My only .02 cents is this... When you think that you have it all adjusted right by how much drag you get from the free spinning tire, you need to go do a 20 mph e-brake stop in your street (making sure your thumb is holding down on the button). This is what I did to test the setup, and I'm glad I did. Thing was still only working on one side even though the spin test said it was good. the stop test said it was, FAIL! Tried to go sideways on me!!! When Oh-Shit happens, you can count on the worst when you pull that fucker and the car goes sideways... Just make sure that after you get everything adjusted all nice, you keep at adjusting the offending side till both tires are leaving the same amount of rubber on the road and the car is stopping its self straight... Most important!!!
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Take all that crap out of your console, then unscrew the 4 screws in the pocket, then the two screws in the cupholders in the front. Next, unscrew your shift ball and shift into neutral. pull up the e-brake as high as you can. Now lift the back of the console high enough so you can see the brake equalizer. Make sure that it is pulling both of the cables equally. If it's not, then you're going to need to take off the brake rotor on the side that's not moving right and try working the cable in and out enough to free it up.
In my case, the drivers side was stuck solid until I sprayed the workings of the cable/drum assembly with brake cleaner and then worked the cable several times. After I put it all back together then I was able to adjust both sides. Now my ebrake cable pulls both equally and I confirmed this by a hard yank on the ebrake at 10mph which produced two equal length skid marks.
I did this and it still doesn't grab well enough. How hard is it to replace the E-brake pads?
drum brake friction material is called shoes. Our parking brake is a set of shoes which sit inside the drum part of the rotor. The shoes are imo very difficult to replace. There are two springs that are used to hold them together and it is very difficult to get the spring back on. I must have spent atleast an hour per side screwing around with the springs.
If they don't grab enough, then you need to tighten the adjuster wheel more. The friction material lasts a very long time. I have atleast 50% left on oem shoes and I've got 109k on the car.
If they are glazed, it takes the glaze off. I'd use a rough grit anything under 400 if you ask me. Wear a breathing mask if you do it though, you don't want to be breathing that crap.
will this not make my ebrake handle not go up so high, or do i adjust the cable its self if so where?
Handle will go up to about half of where it does for you now, most likely, and catch very early. Great adjustment. My ebrake was non-existent; now it engages with a few clicks up on the handle. Love it.
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