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Old 07-05-2009, 10:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW-TO: Oil Change

There are many methods to doing a oil change. And there are plenty of opinions on which oil, oil filter, oil weight, tools, etc, etc. This is my method. I hope it helps.

I always try to find a package deal on synthetic oil + filter. Advance Auto had this package for $24.99. You may want an extra quart in case you run a bit low down the road.



I use Rhino truck ramps and a couple of 2x4's placed in between the wall and the ramps to keep the ramps from sliding. There are other methods to stabilize the ramps. I also took a marker and outlined on the garage floor where the ramps go so I don't have to take the time lining them up each time I use them. Be sure to pull the emergency brake and put the car in gear when lifting a car.



PLEASE USE JACK STANDS ANY TIME YOU NEED TO BE UNDER YOUR VEHICLE. I use 4 just to be sure.



Wheel chocks should be used (I gave mine away when I sold my last SRT-4) to keep the car from accidentally rolling backward. I use 25lb weights that are thicker than they look in the pic.



Here is the under car view from the driver side. The drain plug is located to the left of the filter.



I recommend a warm engine (helps flow), but not too hot so you don't get burned by hot motor oil.

Remove the oil cap from the valve cover to allow the oil to flow out freely.

Use a 13mm wrench or socket to loosen the plug a bit, then use your hand and slowly back it off while applying pressure towards the pan so the plug doesn't go flying when the oil dispenses. If you drop the plug, be sure to clean it off before reinstalling it. You may want to place some paper or towels on the floor to avoid oil spilling/staining on your floor.





The black hose looking thing is actually the oil flowing out of the pan.

Reinstall the drain plug after most of the oil has stopped flowing out. You should not over tighten the plug! 19ft/lbs of torque is all that is required.




If needed, use pliers to loosen the filter, then use your hands to finish.






Be sure that the gasket from the old filter is not stuck to the filter housing.

I like to fill the filter (about 1/4 -3/4 full) with some oil before installing it to help the oil pressure rise faster from not having to fill the filter from the pan.




Be sure to lubricate the filter gasket with fresh oil before installing.




Wipe clean the filter housing before installing new filter. Hand tighten the filter. Do not use pliers to tighten.



You can now add the 5 quarts of new oil. Check the filter and plug for leaks after you put the 1st quart in, and check again after the last quart is added.



After lowering the car, start the car (no need to rev the engine) and make sure all is well. After you turn the motor off, I would look under the car again for leaks, then check the engine oil level after about 5 minutes.

Be sure to refill the empty quarts with the old motor oil, then return the used oil and filter to your auto parts store for recycling the next time you visit the store. DO NOT DISPOSE THE OIL IN ANY OTHER WAY.




If this was your first time doing a oil change on your own, congratulations, you are now a real man, or a really cool chick. J/K.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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nice that u made this how to. you would be surprised how many people actually dont know how to do this?
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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For the big-filter kit from DCR that I use in conjunction with PTP's filter spacer, I have to remove the filter and let it drain before I can access the oil pan bolt. No big deal, though.
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What sort of a filter did you use?? I got srt 4 filter from mopar and that s... doesnt fit at all(hot side pipe on the way)
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by bravopl View Post
What sort of a filter did you use?? I got srt 4 filter from mopar and that s... doesnt fit at all(hot side pipe on the way)

For the big filter kit or for the OP? For the stock setup any SRT-4 filter will work. How is it not fitting?

For the big filter kit I use either the K&N HP-3001 or the Mobile 1 M1301.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The filter in the picture is an Purolator Pure One PL20195.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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wow i just spin off the filter....start the car till its drained then put on a new filter and fill it up.............
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by RUgoinUp
There are many methods to doing a oil change.

Whatever works for ya.
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I mean regular mopar filter designed for srt4 i think its m309(for srt4 its a bit longer than for regulat neon) So i go under the car all happy with my long ass filter and i see shit is too long. Instead i used filter for regular neon. Well my car looks a bit different then whats on the pic. It got some 2 wires comming from intercooler and going straight to oil filter. BTW whats OP?
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by bravopl View Post
I mean regular mopar filter designed for srt4 i think its m309(for srt4 its a bit longer than for regulat neon) So i go under the car all happy with my long ass filter and i see shit is too long. Instead i used filter for regular neon. Well my car looks a bit different then whats on the pic. It got some 2 wires comming from intercooler and going straight to oil filter. BTW whats OP?

I really need to see a picture of this. There should be no wires going from the intercooler to the oil filter. The only thing you should see there are the hoses for the coolant to flow into the oil cooler, and that comes from the top of the block to the oil cooler, not the filter.

Any chance you can get a picture of these wires and such?
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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MODERATOR EDIT: Please provide professional documentation regarding your recommendation.

Last edited by RUgoinUp : 11-08-2009 at 11:12 AM.
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