I want to preface this how-to with a warning: This is extremely time consuming and shouldn't be attempted unless you have a fair knowledge of how materials like fiberglass, fiberglass resin, and Bondo work.
Supplies needed:
1 - 2000-2005 Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Neon decklid
1 - PVO/AVS spoiler
1 - 3/4" dowel rod (only if your decklid isn't already wingless)
1 - medium sized "C" clamp (again, only if you aren't already wingless)
1 - gallon of lacquer thinner (if you want to remove the paint for maximum adhesion)
1 - Quart of Bondo
1 - Tube of glazing/spot putty
1 - Quart of fiberglass resin
1 - sheet of woven fiberglass cloth, approximately 10 square feet (DO NOT buy the sheets of blown fiberglass. What you buy should look like a piece of woven fabric)
At least 3 sheets each of 60 grit, 120 grit, 220-320 grit, and 400-600 grit sandpaper.
A couple of Durablocks (I recommend a 12"x1.5" block and another one of the same width cut down to 4-6")
a bucket that you can fill with soapy water (for wet sanding)
2 - syringes of quick set, 2 part epoxy (I prefer the 3-5 minute setup stuff versus the 1 minute so you have some time to work with it)
2-3 cans of automotive spray primer
A LOT of time and patience
If your deck lid is already wingless then you can skip this first step.
Cut the dowel rod so that when inserted into the bottom of the lid it fits flush with the surface. Apply 2-part epoxy, insert and clamp down until it sets up.
You don't need to shave the lock tumbler or the 3rd brake light. I did it because it looks better that way to me. Skip this part if you don't want to bother.
Remove the tumbler and third brake light. Add 2-part epoxy to the areas that make contact with the decklid and re-install. This will help insure that these two part stay put, forever.
Apply a coat of Bondo
Sand Bondo using Durablock whenever possible. Start with a 60-100 grit paper and work up to a 120-220 grit. (later we'll go back and finish up with some higher grit when prepping for paint)
Ta-Da! You can haz no clutter on your trunk!
I bought the CBD PVO-style spoiler in fiberglass. I would recommend getting the carbon fiber instead as the FG one is made of a single layer of blown fiber. It's quite flimsy and I had to fill it with some expanding foam to give it some rigidity. In addition to the two sided 3M adhesive strips that came on the wing, I added a thick bead of 2-part epoxy to affix it to the decklid. This is where having a slower cure time helps, as it takes a few minutes just to get a bead all around the spoiler.
Now you can either rough up the wing and decklid with sandpaper before applying a sheet of fiberglass, or you can use the thinner to strip the paint completely. The thinner is the best way to go, but it's time consuming and messy as hell. I just roughed the surface up really good with some 60 grit and went ahead and applied the fiberglass sheet. This step will help to ensure that the spoiler doesn't ever pull away from the decklid.
Add Bondo and sand to a smooth finish with a Durablock.
Again, ta-da!
You can repeat this process on the rear of the decklid, but you must be careful as to avoid mucking up the character line that runs through the middle of it. I didn't bother.
Now's the time when you want to check to make sure that you've created nice smooth surfaces. Sand, prime, and wet sand to check your surfaces. Make sure you have either sunlight or really bright direct indoor lighting to check your reflections to make sure that your surfaces are true.
Sand, Bondo, spot putty, prime and wet sand as necessary in order to perfect the surfaces that you've created. Finally prime the whole thing then wet sand with a 400-600 grit to clean it up and paint!
Voila!
Good luck!
How-To: Molded PVO/AVS Spoiler/ Shaved Lock/3rd Brake Light
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