first let me say that if i had the money i would have bought the ptp charge pipe since i am a big fan of their products. I did this to fix my own problem quickly and effitiently.
after runing on 14psi for 2 weeks (due to time) i was desperate, the coupler on the charge pipe was so worned it was leaking bad, at first i had tried fitting another silicone coupler over it, using rvt and 2 clamps to seal it, but the clamp going to the turbo didnt go all the way up cus of a solid line going form the turbo to the motor, and the clamp would eventualy slide down.
so on my day off i called a friend at work to see if he had the things i needed.
2.5" exhaust tubing (it can take the heat and wont rust)
2.5" silicone hose conector
2.5" to 2" reducer
and 4 t-bolt calmps, usualy sizes are listed as maximum and minimum, so make sure the size of the coupler is in between those numbers.
cutting tool of your choice (just watch your fingers)
socket wrench and sockets.
tape measurer
*the sponge you dont need, lol
first take off your intake
take the battery out (dont have to but it leaves more room)
find the clamp on the stock charge pipe, on the back of the turbo, you can use a small flat head but a socket would be better (8mm)
at this point you can go ahead and jack up the car if you havent already
under the car the charge pipe is held up by 2 bolts (13mm)
then loosen the clamp going to the hot side pipe
to take the charge pipe out; grab it and as it comes down and twisted on a clock wise motion, it will help get it out, since it has an odd angle and a 45* bend on it.
once its out you can go ahead and measure where you are going to cut (should be about 4.5" measure twice, cut once) keep in mind the angle of the charge pipe so when you match the new pipe to it, it mantains its inclination and matches up with the turbo
now cut 3" (do your own measuring) off the new 2.5" tubing
slide the 2.5" conector coupler over the charge pipe and fit the new tubing on the other side grab the reducer coupler and fit it on the other side of the new tubing, it should look like this
put the clamps on and tighten them all except the one going to the turbo
now re-instal the charge pipe, make sure it fits right, and tighten the t-bolt clamp going to the turbo
do a boost leak test and check for leaks, if you have no leaks put your intake back on and you are done
it should all come out under $40 and a couple hours of your time, if you have air tools the even less.
hope this helps out someone
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Parting out
Last edited by nightmare_rebuilt : 07-08-2007 at 06:06 PM.
thanks like i said i wish i had the money for the ptp charge pipe but i didnt and i know theres a lot of ppl that feel the same way hopefuly this fix will help them.
I did mine a few months ago, but I didn't need the extra tubing (.50 trim), my coupler was long enough (barely) to reach the compressor outlet. I actually used a 2 1/4" to 2" coupler but had to really stretch it out to make it fit over the charge pipe. I put one end inside of a rubber mallet and beat it to stretch it out.
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Nice write-up. I think I may do this too while I get some other things on the care that take presidence over a new charge pipe. But this would get me by until I can afford the PTP pipe. Thanks for the pics and write-up.
Nice write-up. I think I may do this too while I get some other things on the care that take presidence over a new charge pipe. But this would get me by until I can afford the PTP pipe. Thanks for the pics and write-up.
your welcome, and yes i would prefer the ptp as well.
i like helping out and sharing, i already have one sticky on the how to's... could this be my second one?
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How-To: Modify Stock Charge Pipe
Linear Mode
