Hold the base (1) and with a hex bit (or vice grips, etc...) unscrew the center section (2). It doesn't matter if you ruin the threads, you'll see why later.
When you completely unscrew the center section, the cooler will separate with the mount. You can see it better in this picture:
Basically you throw away the cooler (finned part - #1). You'll see when you separate them that the mount itself (2) alread has another center threaded insert in it, which is what you will now screw your bigger oil filter onto.
As you can also see, the oil cooler had two coolant lines. That's what we were talking about above...You have to do something with them. Sompe people remove the hard lines that went to the cooler and plug the holes where the hard lines went into the block. IMO, that;s the best way to do it, but you'll have to remove the intermediate shaft or have a extra elbow in the middle of your arm The way most of us are doing it is to take a rubber line and connect the two lines together. If you do that, you just need to make sure that the rubber hose does not rub up against the intermediate shaft. When you're under the car looking at it, you'll get a better idea of the location and orientation of all these parts.
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just put a pair of vice grips on the piece that un-threads ... there's no point in re-installing the peice (or cooler) down the road, so what's the difference if you ruin it?
is this a good mod for only 300+hp or it doesn't matter? & what about the pick up tube is it required to have it cut it open at the same time or no??
Well, it's cheap and it will help for later on. Just something to do while you're changing the oil. Same with the pick up tube. Modding it is free, might as well while you're in there.
I'm not too worried about the oil cooler, I'm more worried about the flow to the oil pump based on what Darrell Cox has said about it. I'm guessing the oil might get above 200 under boost, but I really don't know. As long as you're running "turbo-approved" synthetic oil, you can get up to ~450 or so before you start coking the bearings. If someone was really worried about oil temps, I'd go with a real oil cooler, instead of pushing the cooling to an already stressed cooling system.
I'm not sure of the hose size, I'd have to guess between 3/8 and 1/2". I had 5/8 laying around and it was too big, so I know it's smaller than that.
I did the big oil filter without the doing the oil pickup. Getting the pan off is kind of a lot of work, I would only recommend doing the oil filter pickup when you cut your balance chain...lol I wish I would have known 2 months ago when I did that....
I put 5 qts of oil in after doing this, and the oil level was still fine, but I'd have to guess that the new filter holds maybe an extra pint or so of oil.
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The way most of us are doing it is to take a rubber line and connect the two lines together. If you do that, you just need to make sure that the rubber hose does not rub up against the intermediate shaft. When you're under the car looking at it, you'll get a better idea of the location and orientation of all these parts.
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