- Get some M6 washers as the stock bolt has a flange, and you want to use a washer so the bolt head doesn't dig up the oil filter mount when you tighten it down.
- The middle oil drain screw is pretty difficult to remove. You need to have a very large hex bit, I would have to guess 3/8 or 7/16. What I did was find a bolt that had a head that fit inside the oil drain screw, then using vice grips, clamped down on the bolt and actually had to hold the cooler in a vice and put a breaker bar on the vice grips (Yes mine were on that hard). Because I didn't read the instructions all the way I didn't know that you threw out the oil screw, so hindsight 20/20, I offer this advice, go ahead and put the vice grips right on the oil drain threads as it doesn't matter when you wreck them because you are justy going to throw it out anyway. But yeah, if you have a hex bit that large, that's the best way.
- Plan on doing a coolant flush. When you pull the coolant hoses, you'll loose about 1.5 gallons of coolant. You can use vice grips like suggested, but when you yank one off to connect the other, it's going to be a mess. So, get yourself some distilled water and Zeres G05 HOAT (or Factory) coolant.
- Both factory rubber lines are molded to wrap around the intermediate axle. I suggest when you connect them, you do as I did and flip the hose around so that it bends towards the oil pan instead of the spinning intermediate axle.
- The torque rating on the 3 bolts are 105 in/lbs according to the shop manual.
Overall a great how-to!
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I bent the tubing then used some automotive zip-ties to "tie" it off to the brace next to the intermediate shaft, ensuring there was no crease in the hose to prevent coolant flow down there. Worked like a charm
I did the install today,I took some pictures for the people on here that dont have plugs for there coolant lines and want to just do the loop with the hose.What I did was bought a foot of heater hose from bennet auto supply,it was $1.16 total.
I did this because yes you can still use one of the hoses that came off the lines,but they are already shaped and its kind of hard to get them to bend the way you want them to.Mine had a kink in it and it wouldnt get straight no matter what so I just bought some new hose,a couple bucks and you have a new hose and a nice,clean install.
Heres the 2 lines that you connect to each other,I circled the ends of them in Yellow.This is a picture of the rubber hoses already pulled off of the metal coolant lines.
Now get your new hose and use it to connect both lines together,like this.
VOILA! Now you dont have to worry about your plugs coming out.Hopefully this helps a few people with there install!
-Frazier
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I did the install today,I took some pictures for the people on here that dont have plugs for there coolant lines and want to just do the loop with the hose.What I did was bought a foot of heater hose from bennet auto supply,it was $1.16 total.
I did this because yes you can still use one of the hoses that came off the lines,but they are already shaped and its kind of hard to get them to bend the way you want them to.Mine had a kink in it and it wouldnt get straight no matter what so I just bought some new hose,a couple bucks and you have a new hose and a nice,clean install.
Heres the 2 lines that you connect to each other,I circled the ends of them in Yellow.This is a picture of the rubber hoses already pulled off of the metal coolant lines.
Now get your new hose and use it to connect both lines together,like this.
VOILA! Now you dont have to worry about your plugs coming out.Hopefully this helps a few people with there install!
what parts would i need to buy to just remove the oil cooler.
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I didn't know that you threw out the oil screw, so hindsight 20/20, I offer this advice, go ahead and put the vice grips right on the oil drain threads as it doesn't matter when you wreck them because you are justy going to throw it out anyway. But yeah, if you have a hex bit that large, that's the best way.
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