HOW-TO: Install Solid LCA Bushings - Page 11 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #151 of 341 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 01:27 AM
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Ok I installed my new bushings tonight, went pretty smooth thanks to your how to nate.

The only thing is that I have the stabilizer bar that I had to take the bolt off. Other than that, just the passenger side mm took a little longer than I expected. Thanks again.
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post #152 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 08:58 AM
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Do you have to get an alignment done after doing this?
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post #153 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 04:07 PM
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or that other sites traction bars
i gotta ask what kind of tires those are in your sig. lol i know, off topic but look sick and like they'd stick

Its modded
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post #154 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 04:17 PM
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Do you have to get an alignment done after doing this?
It would be a good idea.
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post #155 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 07:24 AM
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Well I did this last night. Biggest PITA ever. I could NOT for the life of me get them reinstalled. There wasn't enough flex in the LCA's with the new bushings installed in order to get the ball joint seated. My neighbor came out and helped me after trying myself. We basically rigged an 8 foot 2x4 to be used as a lever to press the ball joint side of the LCA down while aligning the axle. On top of that I ended up popping my damn passenger axle out and gotta go fix that this morning.
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post #156 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 08:46 PM
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When you work with the doing repair replacement work involving ball joints, spindle, LCA bushings.......................first thing is to remove the sway bar end links from the arms and then loosen up (not remove) the sway bar brackets on the k-member, then swing the sway bar and so the ends point down. The sway bar end links are the last thing to install when things start going back together. Basically you were fighting the torsion of the sway bar which has tension on the arms to go up.

You're just new to this stuff, if you were to do this like mentioned above it would have been smooth sailing.
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post #157 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 08:53 AM
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When you work with the doing repair replacement work involving ball joints, spindle, LCA bushings.......................first thing is to remove the sway bar end links from the arms and then loosen up (not remove) the sway bar brackets on the k-member, then swing the sway bar and so the ends point down. The sway bar end links are the last thing to install when things start going back together. Basically you were fighting the torsion of the sway bar which has tension on the arms to go up.

You're just new to this stuff, if you were to do this like mentioned above it would have been smooth sailing.
Owned by my newness. Ahh well, things turned out in the end either way. Thanks for the input man.
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post #158 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 09:06 AM
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I'm glad you did not take what I said harshly. I just did this work yesterday on another members car and all went well............next time you need to do work involving the ball joint you will see what I mean..................when I first worked on cars I did the same things = you just learn by struggling sometimes.

I think 99% of what people struggle with when doing this work is having the sway bar being hooked up when working with removing or installing the ball joint.

For others, as for yesterday, it was the 5th time I've done this and you do not have to burn things with regards to removing the rubber on the rear bushing to get the center part for reuse, once the bushings are pressed out a sheet rock knife and a little effort will get about 95% of the rubber off, use a bench grinder for the rest.
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post #159 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 07:41 PM
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I'm glad you did not take what I said harshly. I just did this work yesterday on another members car and all went well............next time you need to do work involving the ball joint you will see what I mean..................when I first worked on cars I did the same things = you just learn by struggling sometimes.

I think 99% of what people struggle with when doing this work is having the sway bar being hooked up when working with removing or installing the ball joint.

For others, as for yesterday, it was the 5th time I've done this and you do not have to burn things with regards to removing the rubber on the rear bushing to get the center part for reuse, once the bushings are pressed out a sheet rock knife and a little effort will get about 95% of the rubber off, use a bench grinder for the rest.

response to bold....

but burning things is so much more fun!

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post #160 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 09:47 PM
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response to bold....

but burning things is so much more fun!
some of us can't burn it off. Like me, i live in a apartment. If i start burning shit they will kick my ass out. Also i really hate the smell of burned rubber and it is really bad for your health.
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post #161 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 01:24 PM
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oh please... call mom ask to borrow her propane torch or go to depot ($12.96 + tank) BernzOmatic Pencil Flame Propane Torch - UL2317 at The Home Depot

rebuilds in the apt parking lot is what its all about.

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some of us can't burn it off. Like me, i live in a apartment. If i start burning shit they will kick my ass out. Also i really hate the smell of burned rubber and it is really bad for your health.
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post #162 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 07:34 AM
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ok... tried this fix... had a problem getting the front end links off, is there just that bolt on the bottom?

2003 Dodge SRT4 (152,000 miles and counting!)
fuel return line
Hallman Manual Boost Controller
AEM EUGO
Apexi AFC and supporting tach mod
750cc injectors (Deatschwerks)
Hahn 20G
3" turbo back catless exhaust
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AGP dogbone motor and transmission mounts
Complete Prothane suspension bushing upgrade
BC coil-overs
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post #163 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 08:34 AM
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I'm surprised Rage hasn't written a how-to on this yet. There are a few tricks that make things freakishly easier. Not only would Rage be doing a favor to its customers, they'd be doing a favor to themselves - less trouble calls.
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post #164 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Brads neon SRT4 View Post
ok... tried this fix... had a problem getting the front end links off, is there just that bolt on the bottom?
The very upper part of the end link (top side of the control arm) is threaded inside, the bolt head you see on the bottom goes through to this part.

Using a vise grip grab the metal part of this upper bushing (not the white bushing body), while holding this with the vise grip use a ratchet and 15mm socket on the bottom.
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post #165 of 341 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 08:21 PM
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I found it was easier to re-install them by seating the bushing part of the LCA in, moving the knuckle up and manually moving the ball joint and slowly seating the knuckle back on the ball joint.

I think another time I put the vertical one in, then the ball joint, then I used a rubber mallet and a piece of wood to hammer in the horizontal one. Then I took a metal rod and put it in the hole to pry the LCA back and line it up for the bolt that goes in it.

Installing the LCAs is the biggest bitch of the swap, but it still went smoothly for me. And yes, burning the rubber off is fun
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