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#1 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Member Number: 51967
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 10
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This is a real easy mod cheap mod which will greatly reduce wheel hop. I got these inserts off Modern Performance for ~$25.
PROCEDURE: 1. Start by jacking up the front of the car, and placing jackstands just aft of the front wheels. Then support the engine using a jack. I used a 2X4 to spread the load and supported at the oil pan. Only lift the engine a minor minor amount (~1/4") just to support it when you remove the motor mounts. You don't want the engine to be out of position. (In fact, the service manual talks about aligning the engine any time you adjust the motor mounts, but I think its a bit excessive if you're careful to support the engine. Plus, the engine really doesn't move much at all if you only do one motor mount at a time.) ![]() 2. Start with the upper mount. Its on the passenger side. ![]() 3. Remove the 2 bolts that hold it in place, 1 in the front going to the engine, and 1 going to the frame. It should come out pretty easy (the bracket shown in the picture is for my catch can, ignore that). ![]() 4. Take the insert and put it into mount. It will be a tight fit so I used a board and a hammer to "persuade" it into place. ![]() 5. Reinstall the mount in position, using the washer provided to ensure the insert doesn't come back out. Make sure to use the right washer as the kit comes with 2 different sizes. ![]() 6. Now for the lower motor mount. Its a little trickier but not much. Start by taking off the passenger side wheel. ![]() 7. Then, remove the plastic shield. Its held in place by ~4 bolts, and 2 plastic push-in retainers (they're a bit of a pain, but if you use needle-nose pliers, they're not too bad). ![]() 8. Once the plastic shield is removed, you'll be able to have plenty of access to the lower motor mount. Take the insert and install it in place just like the upper mount. Only this time, you shouldn't need to remove the mount. ![]() 9. Install the washer and bolt back in. Put the shield back in, and the wheel back on, and you're all set!! Pretty easy, and will make a huge difference! Modern Performance also recommends installing transmission mount inserts as well. I got em, but have yet to install them.
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MODS: MPx 3" turboback exhaust, S1 lowering springs, Flik 17" wheels, K&N shortram intake, Hotchkiss swaybars, MM inserts, transmission inserts, Bwoody catch cans, DCSports Front Tower Brace, Charge Pipe Mod, and more.
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#2 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Member Number: 83180
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 347
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Great write-up! I just finished doing this. I didn't take the wheel off so it was a little harder to do but not too bad. Afterwards though whenever I start or shut off the car, I can hear something kind of shudder a little bit, almost like a mild clunking sound. Happens a little when I go over some bumps or around corners too. Wasn't there before I did the mounts. I made sure everything was bolted down tight and buttoned up too. Any thoughts?
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#4 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Member Number: 60962
Location: texas
Posts: 2,061
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I had these for about 3 years, i finally switched to all solid mounts. The difference is night and day. My launches feel more solid. Not to mention when i took out the inserts, the bottom insert was broken.
Sent from Iphone.
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"Duster360 knows his $hit"
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#6 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Member Number: 1713
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,494
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Great write-up! I just finished doing this. I didn't take the wheel off so it was a little harder to do but not too bad. Afterwards though whenever I start or shut off the car, I can hear something kind of shudder a little bit, almost like a mild clunking sound. Happens a little when I go over some bumps or around corners too. Wasn't there before I did the mounts. I made sure everything was bolted down tight and buttoned up too. Any thoughts?
I concur, no need to remove the wheel. 10 minutes on both. Windex is your friend, lets the inserts slide right in. If anyone was having trouble getting a torque wrench on the upper mount, just follow the a/c line to right around the passenger headlight; there is a bracket holding it on, 10mm bolt. Take it off and you can push that line downwards at the mm bolt, and now get your torque wrench/regular wrench in there to work. |
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