How-To: Install Hahn Racecraft Portfueler
*NOTE: Pics will be added later on... I'll post an update when I get them online. I will have the electrical phase of the install added in a couple of days.
Other than what is provided in the portfueler, you should only need 2 new intake manifold gaskets. I would highly recommend not to reuse the old gasket in order to prevent any leaks or failures of the old gasket. When you order the portfueler, you may need to check to see if it comes with the tach driver/adapter. You will also probably need the fuel pump and a map clamp.
Required Tools:
Dremmel with metal cutting discs or grinder
Allen key tool set.
1/8" Ratchet
1/4" Ratchet
6" or longer 1/4" extension
10mm socket 1/4" & 1/8"
13mm socket 1/4"
18mm socket 1/4"
x2 18mm open-ended wrench (or a pair of locking plyers with an 18mm wrench)
13mm open-ended wrench
12mm open-ended wrench
10mm open-ended wrench
Flat head screw driver
Blue or Red Loc-Tite
Tread tape
Small throw away paper/plastic cup
Small amount of motor oil
Soldering iron
Wire cutter/stripper
Solder
Wire shrink wrap/electrical tape
Metal coat hanger or similar item
Instructions:
Before you start take Only 2 studs that are provided in the kit, and apply enough loc-tite to the tip of the studs (on the side that has the most threads) so that it would hold/lock the nut in place. Thread the nut onto the stud, so that the nut has 1 or 2 stud threads showing on the outer edge of the nut. Set these 2 studs/nuts out of the way, so that they can cure. It's best if you do this 24 hours before you actually start the install.
First Remove the stock intake if you still have one.
Then Remove the stock rubber cold pipe or hard pipe if you have one.
Remove the throttle body linkage & bracket using the 10mm 1/8" socket. (should only be 2 bolts)
Unplug all wire harnesses mounted on the throttle body. (IAC & TPS)
Remove any vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body as well as the pcv hose on the intake manifold.
Pull the fuel pump relay from the fuse box located in the engine bay. Unplug the MAP sensor harness and all injector harnesses. Set the harness on top of the valve cover. Remove the 2 12mm bolts that mount the stock fuel rail to the intake manifold using the 12mm open-ended wrench. Remove the fuel rail and injectors together away from the intake manifold. Squeeze the gray clip on the hose side of the fuel rail and remove the hose from the fuel rail. Grab the disposable cup and catch as much fuel from the fuel line & rail as possible. Rotate the fuel rail until all fuel is drained. Using a flat head screw driver, pry off the injector-rail mounting clips. Then remove the injectors from the fuel rail. Set them aside in a clean area. It may be necessary to clean them off using the cup of gasoline that was collected earlier.
Unbolt all 10mm bolts that are used to mount the intake manifold to the head using a 1/4" extension. (should only be 5 bolts) The last bolt on the passenger side is the most difficult to get, and will require a 10mm open-ended wrench.
Once all bolts and hoses are removed, you should be able to work the intake manifold away from the head. There is another vacuum line connected to the under side of the intake manifold that will have to be removed at this time. The intake manifold should slide out freely. Be careful not to pull other hoses/lines that might catch on to the intake manifold.
Now that the manifold is removed, you can grind off the top passenger side sharp protruding edge of the intake manifold. This area will rub against the coolant hose and cause it to fail if not addressed properly. It will happen as I've seen it on a friends car with the portfueler, when he decided not to grind this area down. This is the only thing that needs trimmed on the manifold. The Hahn Racecraft Portfueler instructions say to also grind down a small dip near the edge of the intake manifold for the injectors to fit properly... This should not need to be done on the SRT-4 as I've installed two of these kits, and both did not require it.
While the intake manifold is out, it may be a good time to clean it up as well as removing any oil or dirt from the flange side of the manifold. Do the same with the mounting area on the head.
Install only 3 of the 5 studs that are provided (the ones that have not been prepped), and you can use loc-tite on the threads that go into the head if you choose to do so. Do not put them in the last 2 holes on the passenger side. Doing so will cause more problems than it's worth. Screw them in by hand, so that the side with the fewer threads is going into the head. This will prevent you from screwing them in too far and will be sufficient for providing a strong mount. If it is too difficult to thread the studs in by hand, use two nuts on the end of the stud. Bind the 2 nuts together so that the bottom of each nut faces each other. Then tighten the stud in with a 13mm socket.
Once the 3 studs are installed, put on one new gasket followed by the injector plate followed by another new gasket. Next comes the slightly difficult task of installing the intake manifold. To do this you may have to remove the 10mm bolt on the thermostat housing that is on the side near the intake manifold. Then only loosen the other 10mm bolt so that the housing can slide side to side. Connect the vacuum hose to the underside of the intake manifold. You may need an extra pair of hands to pull the radiator towards the front while you work the intake manifold onto the studs. Be sure not to forget where all the lines go under & around the intake manifold. Angle the intake manifold to the 2 stud holes on the passenger side, and then slide it onto the 3 studs on the driver's side. Thread on nuts to each of the 3 studs, but do not thread them tight.
Take the 2 studs that have been prepped and thread them into the remaining holes. Tighten all 5 nuts/studs down with a 13mm socket. Start on the outer ends and work your way to the center nuts/studs. Once they are tight, you can slide the thermostat housing back into position, and bolt it down.
Re-attach all vacuum lines, hoses, and the throttle body linkage/bracket to the intake manifold/throttle body.
Take the new fuel rails and prepare them for mounting. The rail with the round mounts attached to it will be used for the stock injectors and will be mounted first to the intake manifold. The passenger side of this fuel rail will need to be capped using the brass NPT threaded cap fitting. Use several layers of thread tape on this fitting, so that it does not leak. Using an Allen key tighten the cap fitting to the rail until it is decently tight. It should not block the opening in the rail for the nearest injector. Attach the adapter fittings that were provided to the fuel rail such that the side of the fitting with the rubber o-ring is seated into the fuel rail. Using an 18mm open ended wrench or socket, tighten the fittings down as best as you can.
Coat the o-rings of every injector with oil. Install each stock injector into the intake manifold injector holes. Install each accel injector into the Hahn injector plate holes. Be sure you use a good amount of oil on the o-rings to aid in seating the injectors properly. Install the stock injector-rail clips on the stock injectors to help with seating the new rail. Take the new fuel rail that has the circular mounts and seat it to the top of the stock injectors. Be sure to line up the rail so that the plugged end is facing the passenger side, and the circular mounts are positioned properly (upward towards the other injectors). Be very careful not to bind the o-rings in the fuel rail, and make sure the injectors line up to the rail holes. Give an equal amount of pressure to each side of the fuel rail until it is seated to the top of the injectors. Do the same for the upper fuel rail. It is very important that the o-rings are properly seated into the rails. If you fail to do this you will either have a large amount of fuel sprayed all over or you will have a boost leak. It will not be fun having to redo this part of the install. Using the 2 bolts provided, tighten down the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Be sure to tighten both down until they are near the fuel rail and then tighten each of them a little at a time to prevent the rail from popping off the injectors at one end.
The provided fuel hose will need to be prepped for installation. For the short hose, take the 2 90degree hose fittings and mount them to the hose. It helps to boil the hose/fitting in hot water to ease the installation. Use a cooking mitt or protective gloves when handling the hot hose/fittings. Do the same with the longer hose and the remaining hose fittings.
Take the shorter fuel hose/fittings and mount it to the drivers side of the fuel rail with an 18mm wrench. Be sure not to kink the hose when it is being tightened down. Do the same with the longer hose on the passenger side of the upper fuel rail. Give enough clearance to the fitting & hose since the thermostat & timing gear housings are very close to it. Attach the other end of the long hose to the adapter fitting, which connects to the stock fuel line. Use 2 18mm wrenches or an 18mm wrench and locking pliers to tighten the two fittings together. Remove the gray clip on the stock fuel rail by using a small flat head screw driver to gently pry open the locking tabs. Attach the gray clip to the new adapter fitting, and then attach the new adapter fitting to the stock fuel line. zip tie the hose & fittings to the A/C condenser hard lines. Make sure that none of the fuel lines are rubbing or touching anything that could wear them down over time. Use plenty of zip ties to make sure the fuel lines are positioned properly. Connect the MAP sensor harness and the stock injector harnesses. You may need to rotate the new Accel injectors to the driver's side or passenger's side to make room for the stock injector harnesses.
Reinstall the pressure pipes/hose, and the stock intake if necessary. Double check that everything is connected and completed. Clean up any debris or tools from the engine bay. Reinstall the fuel pump relay, and start the car up. If it has a lot of trouble starting or you hear a hissing/spraying noise, stop immediately. You more than likely sprayed fuel all over the intake manifold because one or more of the injectors were not seated properly. Redo them if necessary. If all is good, then drive the car around for a while to make sure it's running properly until you start the electrical phase of this install.
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