Hey fellow members,
Well, after about 5 hours and 4 broken knuckles, I finally got my new Forward Motion E1 turbo installed. First off, I would like to say that the turbo was packaged perfectly and shipped quickly with tracking. Way to go Foward Motion .
Second, a big hurray to Forward Motion for an awesome turbo at a great price. The craftsmanship was second to none and the turbo looked outstanding in everyway. Like I said earlier, the turbo was packaged perfectly and Foward Motion included one of their new performance product catalogs.
Here's the problem. They did include instructions and they are complete, but I felt that they did not include the little tips that the average person might need performing the swap in their garage or driveway . If you have swapped a turbo before or have a ton of experienc with cars than this post will probably not help you. If your an average guy like me and your looking to swap the turbo in your garage or driveway, this is for you. Oh, sorry that there's no pics so try to follow along.
First off with the list of tools you are going to need; 16mm, 12mm, and 8mm box wrenches, 16mm, 13mm, 10mm, and 8mm sockets with a wrench, a large flat head screw driver, and a small mirror. Also, have a buddy on standby for the install to help hold parts and hold a flashlight in place (you can get by alone on the removal but a friend is key for the install).
The directions say to first disconnet the negative terminal on the battery. Easy enough, just use the 12 mm box wrench and your good to go. I went a step further and completely removed the battery by using a deep socket 13mm wrench with a 12inch extension. It's nice to have room and it makes a good place to put your beer.
Now you need to remove the top cover of your heat sheild. I believe you'll need your trusty 10mm socket wrench for this one. You may also need a box wrench for those tight to reach places. It will also give you great pleasure later if you can loosen an slightly remove you lower half of you heat shlied. You'll thank me later for this one when your trying to wrench off the lower coolant out line.
After the heat shield is off, it's time to remove the WGA. This one is simple. Use a 12mm socket wrench and remove the (2) bolts that face the manifold. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the cotter pin on the flapper and off the with the WGA.
Next remove the intake pipe from the air box to the turbo. This is where the big flat head screw driver comes in handy. Comes off in a sinch.
Then remove the oil feed line and bolt which is on the top of the turbo. This is where I recomend removing the coil pack first with a 10mm socket wrench. It's not required but does make for an eaiser job when your trying to wrench the oil and coolant lines.
A 16mm socket wrench comes in handy for the oil feed line. You can also use a 16mm box wrench like I did, it's fielders choice. Be careful to remove the washers on both sides of the line. The inside washer may be stuck to the turbo so don't forget to remove it right away. You wouldn't want to loose it .
Next the directions say to remove the coolant lines and bolts from the back of the turbo. This can be tricky. I recomend using a 16mm short box wrench. First soak the bolts in PB or WD-40, then they'll be sure to come off in a flash. Remove the top coolant in line first and the bottom coolant out line second. Again remeber to be very careful to remove both the inside and outside washers from the lines. This is very tricky and I suggest having a friend on hand to look around on the ground after they fall because they will. This can save countless minutes (and many oh f&*ks and sh*ts) looking around after they hit the ground. Take this advise from experience, it sucks . You will also leak coolant everywhere so be prepared and have a towel ready sitting under the car.
The directions say to next remove the oil return line from the bottom of the turbo. I say good luck getting to those bolts with the turbo still mounted to the manifold. I recomend to remove the clamp holding the turbo to the manifold with your trusty 10mm socket wrench. Then pull the clamp completely off from around the turbo. Now, the turbo can be carefully pulled from out of the manifold. It will be tough but you need to get the turbine wheel out and around the manifold wall. The charge pipe will still be connected to the turbo and will give you some resistance, but fight it well.
Now you have a better chance to get to those (2) 8mm bolts that hold the oil return line in. This is where skill is needed. I reccomend using a small 8mm socket wrench and alot of patience. They will come off after making small movements with the wrench and cursing up and down. There is not much room for wrenching so this will take awhile. Also, there is a paper gasket that will probably rip when you remove it but do your best to try to keep it in one piece, you'll need it later.
Now you can use a 8mm socket wrench and can loosen up the clamp that holds the charge pipe to the turbo. After that, be sure to remove the two vaccume lines on the right side of the turbo and you'll be able to pull the turbo up and out. Again be carefull of the turbine wheel, you don't want to damage the fins.
Now you can sit back and can admire the difference between your E1 (or E2/SST turbo) and your stocker. Now is a good time to take a brake and put back another beer or two because the install is even a bigger bitch . Now is also a good time to swap your vaccume fittings and blow off valve or block off plate. Remember when you have to add a new BOV and you had to deal with the DREADED 3rd bolt. You guys all know what I'm talking about. Well now with the turbo out, changing the BOV is a sinch. At this point, I was sitting back thinking about that 3rd bolt nightmare that I had changed less then a year ago. Well after this job, the 3rd bolt nightmare was about as bad as playing naked twister with the college cheerleading team (minus the dudes that throw the girls). I will NEVER complaint about that 3rd bolt again.
For the install, the directions say to first install the turbo into the manifold. I say no way. I recomend to first connect the oil return line to the bottom of the turbo again using your 8mm short box wrench and alot of skill. You'll never get the bolts mounted with the turbo installed in the manifold first. I have no idea how anyone does it and if you can do it, then your a better man than me. Now if you have salvaged the old gasket, lucky you. If you have a new one, then you were smart to make the purschase in advance. If your like me, you ended up using gasket maker and will probably leak in the future .
Next, you can now follow the instructions and install the turbo into the manifold. Don't forget the washer ring and remember to align the fitment pin. Also be careful with your turbine wheel, you wouldn't want to bend a fin smashing it into the manifold. Now with the turbo in place, put the mounting clamp back on and lock it in place. I know what your thinking. The rubber housing on the charge pipe is not lined up with the turbo. You are absolutly correct.
After countless hours of trying to get the housing on, I ended up using my large flat head screwdriver. Your going to have to use the flat head screwdriver like a spatula and run it around the outside of the turbo while the driver is in the inside of the rubber housing. Use it like a shoe horn if you will. It will be tough but it will work and you will get the charge pipe housing around the bottom of the turbo. Those last two steps took the longest and sucked big ones, but in the end I prevailed and so will you .
Now reinstall the bottom coolant return line. Remeber to reuse the old washers and take your time. Again the best tool is your 16mm short box wrench and alot of patience. Don't over tighten, the bolt is hollow.
Next is the top coolant in line. Make sure the the notch in the bottom line is facing straight up, use a mirror to check. If it is not straight up, you'll never get the top line to notch in and the bolt won't thread correctly. You'll be pissed as hell and it will suck. Again break out that short 16mm box wrench and your good to go. Don't over tighten, but make sure it is snug and again remember the bolt is hollow.
Now for the oil feed line. This one is pretty easy. Make sure to reuse the washers and use either a 16mm box or socket wrench.
Now reinstall your intake pipe and make sure that both vaccume lines on the right side of the turbo are installed and zip tied.
For the final step, hook up you negative battery terminal and check all lines. Reinstall you coil pack but do not connect the wire harness. Turn the ignition over with the coil pack disconnected to prime your turbo with oil. Next add coolant to recover what was lost during the swap. Then reconnect the coil pack and start the engine. Now check for leaks before taking off.
Congrats, you just swapped the turbo . I hope this helps and keeps you from having to spend 5 hours like I did on a job that should take no more then 2.5 hours. If this helps even one person than I did my job. Good luck with your new turbo whether it be an E1, E2, SST, ported stocker, or just another stocker. Also give yourself a big thumbs up for a job well done and the addition of a new kick ass turbo .
Now for the instructions that are currently sent with the turbo from Forward Motion written be Forward Motion.
FM Enforcer Turbo Install Instructions
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
2. Remove air intake pipe which is connected to the turbo inlet
3. Remove oil feed line and bolt which is the top line on the turbo (16mm)
4. Remove coolant line and bolts which are on the backside to the turbo (16mm)
5. Remove oil drain back tube and bolts which are on the bottom of the turbo (10 mm)
6. Remove the clamp which holds the turbo to the manifold (10 mm nut)
1. Carefully slide FM enforcer turbo into the exhaust manifold (make sure to line up alignment pin with hole on the turbo)
2. Reinstall clamp that holds turbo and manifold together
3. Reinstall oil drain tube and bolts
4. Reinstall coolant lines and bolts. Start with lower coolant line first.
5. Reinstall oil feed line and bolt
6. Reinstall intake pipe
7. Hookup negative battery terminal
Take your time
Make sure to keep washers on oil and coolant lines in the same place
(washers that are against bolt heads have a hex pattern grinded into them from the bolt heads and if they are placed in any other position you will leak coolant.)
Before you start your car unplug the coil pack wiring harness and crank motor for 10 seconds so you prime the turbo with oil.
Do not over tighten bolts for oil and coolant lines. They are hollow.
Any questions feel free to call us at 302-658-2829 or email us at