Another how to for you guys. You can thank Dymondboy for this one. He coaxed me into doing it. I used the DSM Motorsports kit which is pretty compreshensive and uses quality stuff. This should work for you guys who are using all types of BOV kits that use a piece of piping to mount the bov to on the cold side of the IC.(the side that leads to the throttle body) This is a work in progress so if you need clarification on anything PM me! I will edit the post for the benifit of others.
What you'll need:
Flat tipped screwdriver
Dremel tool
Zip ties
2 ft. of vaccum hose
1 "T" connector
Goggles
10mm open end wrench
10mm socket w/ extensions
Ok, it's a good idea to let the car cool down before trying this one. Once the car is cooled off you can get moving.
1) Start by removing the factory airbox. Should be pretty easy to do.
2) Once you have the airbox removed and out of the way you will need to remove 2 plugs on the piece of plastic mounted between the throttlebody (TB) and the intercooler. One of the plugs will have a redline on it. Pull the redline off as well as the rubber 90* elbow. This is the vaccum line for the TIP sensor. The other larger sensor is the temp sensor. Be very careful as you remove this. There is an exposed sensor that you can't see and it will need to be pulled out without it hitting anything else. (for those of you who played the game OPERATION when you were a kid, this will be a breeze) Once you have the temp sensor out, you will need to remove the rubber gromet where it used to reside in. Put this gromet aside, as you will need it later.
3) After you get both plugs out of the plastic pipe, it is now time to remove the stock piping. There are 2 clamps that hold this on. One is located on the exit side of the IC piping, and the other is on the TB. A 10mm wrench or flat tipped screwdriver will do the job.The TB side will be easily accesible. The intercooler side you can reach from underneath the car without a jack. If your car is lowered, you may need to prop her up to access the clamp you'll need to loosen. You will notice that after loosening the clamps they are still attached to the hose. There is a staple to secure the clamp to the hose. Use your flat tipped screwdriver to pry them off. They will not be reused.
4) Remove the factory pipe. Pretty easy huh? Now you'll need to get some goggles and get far away from your car.
5) Now you have the factory pipe removed from the car. I hope you are far away from your vehicle. You will now need to get your dremel out to cut the 2 plastic bands that attatch the 2 pieces of rubber IC hose to the black plastic piece. Use a cutting wheel in your dremel to cut the bands off. Be careful as you do this because one of my cutting wheels decided that its better days were over and shattered. One piece hitting my forehead and the other into my toolbox putting a nice little scratch on it. I hope by now you are wearing goggles and are far away from your car!!
6) Mounting your BOV to the new pipe. It is a good idea to make sure your BOV and BOV flange line up and that the mounting surfaces of both are flat and unwarped. A warped BOV flange will make for a leaky one. The picture below is showing you that you want to take the bov and flange, line them up without a gasket inbetween them to make sure the surfaces are flat.
Tighten the tension on the spring for the BOV. This is done by reading the Japeneese instruction kit. If that doesn't work for you, just loosen the lock nut on top and use and allen key to tighten it down. It comes preset from the factory pretty loose, so give it a couple of turns. You will probably have to re-adjust it later anyway. Don't forget to re-tighten the locknut.
7) Time to pre-assemble the kit. Well, everything should be going smoothly so far. Re-install the gromet you removed from the black OEM piece of IC piping onto your new BOV pipe. There will be a hole predrillled and you'll need to coax it in there. It's a tight fit and for good reason. Here is where you need to do some eyeballing on how this thing is going to fit best for you. It is a good idea to put the whole thing together while it's out of the car to test fitment for your t-bolt clamps. There isn't much room for error as far as the test fitment goes. You won't be able to slide the hose onto the intercooler to far, nor the TB side too far. It will fit just right when it's all said and done. I have a Greddy Type-S with my kit, so I ended up pointing the BOV exit facing downwards. This way water/debris/dirt won't want collect in there. Depending on how your flange was welded to the pipe, you'll need to put it in the car, check for clearance, make sure your clamps will line up, sensors will reach, and that you are happy with the overall appearance of it while it's in there.
8) Install the pre-assembled unit into the car. DO NOT HAVE IT TIGHTENED UP YET, LEAVE THE CLAMPS LOOSE! This will make it much easier on yourself in the long run. By now you've probably had the kit in and out of the car several times seeing which way it will fit. I found it easier to put the IC hose on first, then attach the TB hose. Now your new pipe is suspended between the two with BOV attatched of course. Line everything up just right so all clamps will fit over bead rolled edges on TB,IC, and new BOV pipe. If everything fits fine, get your wrench and tighten down all your new T-bolt clamps.
9) You will want hook up your bov vaccum line. This is done by taking a piece of vaccum line you can get at your local autozone or pepboys. Get about 2 feet worth so you have a little room for error. You will also need your vaccum "T" to tie into the intake manifold. Connect your newly purchased vaccum hose onto the straight pipe off of the Greddy type-S. This is the one that is screwed into the purple part of the BOV. Place your "T" inbetween the line that comes off of the intake manifold right after the throttlebody. After you "T" into the intake manifold, you can take the other end of the line from the bov and connect it to your "T". You will probably want to cut that vaccum line to the correct length as not to have extra hanging around the engine bay especially since it is located so near to the fan shroud.
10) Re-connect your temp and tip sensors. Carefully re-insert the temp sensor. Your pipe should have a nipple for the red line to connect to. After connecting these lines, that pretty much wraps up the install. I went and used several zip ties to secure everything and lessen the chance of lines coming undone.
11) Re-install factory airbox. Listen for leaks. There will be a "hissing" sound if you forgot to fully tightnen something down. If not, you'll find out down the road when an IC pipe pops off.
12) Drive the car gingerly making sure that the car is blowing off and that the BOV is not leaking under WOT.
13) Enjoy!!
How-To: Install DSM BOV Kit
excellent work doug....how many turns is your greddy tightened, I'll use that as my starting point
Linear Mode
