HOW-TO: Install AEM UEGO Wideband - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #1 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-08-2006, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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HOW-TO: Install AEM UEGO Wideband

HOW TO:
AEM WIDEBAND UEGO CONTROLLER INSTALL


This is a how to I made as I installed my AEM UEGO wideband, the instructions seem to be long but I took pics of EVERYTHING so it would be very easy to follow

1) Be sure you have everything included with the wideband there should be: the gauge, 2 wire bundles, o2 sensor, a baggy with wire crimps, an o2 bung, and a bag with extra faces and trim.


2) Always disconnect the battery when working on anything electrical on the car, disconnect the pos (+) post. Using a 10mm socket, I removed it at the connector instead of taking the terminal off the batt. This is your choice.
3) Remove stock pillar if you are using a 2 or 3 gauge pillar pod like I am, remove the pillar by grabbing between the roof liner and the pillar and pop it off it pulls straight out its snapped on by 2 metal clips.



4) Remove the fuse box lid and set aside
5) Remove the fuse block by removing the 2 screws, using a Phillips screwdriver, you can then pull the block out and about 16” of wire to better access the wires and for more room to rout the wiring for the AEM gage




6) Locate the power source wire bundle included with the gauge it is the smaller of the two and has 4 wires coming out of it (red, black, blue and white)


7) I then loosen one of the screws that holds the bracket that held the fuse block (confusing but the pic explains) this is where I decided to connect the gauges ground wire (black) from the 4 wire harness




8) To keep it clean I zip tied the gauges wiring to the wiring that goes to the fuse block


Safety Alert! Please read both #9's before choosing which line to tap into. :

9) Proceed with caution Now you need to decide where you want to tap into for your power NOTE this must be a wire that is only powered when the ignition is on. I tapped into the wiper wire this was a good heavy wire and easy to access, it is the black w/ white stripe that is behind fuse #2 you can ether solder or elec. Tape the wires together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corners
For everyone's information, the location of the power tap (black wire of the wiper fuse) is INCORRECT. Do NOT connect your power to the black line of the wiper fuse line as shown in this write up. This is the power feed into the fuse and taping into the black line is taping upstream of the fuse. This means you are bypassing the fuse, thus posing a potential fire hazard. By connecting to the black wiper power feed, you have essentially installed your wideband without a fuse. To test this, just pull the fuse from the power source you tapped into. If the wideband says on (like it would if you hooked it up per the 1st post), you are not protected.

I just installed my AEM UEGO today and checked all the power connects when I found this error in the write up. If you want to use the wiper power, connect to either of the dark blue lines leaving the bottom of the fuse. Here's a picture of the back of the fuse box showing the correct power connection to your wideband.


10) I ran the sig wires through a hole in the fuse block, these are not required to be used, these are for data logging but I left them accessible just in case Hmmm……50 trim….


11) I ran the wiring harness through up through the hole that is accessed when the stock pillar is removed I curled the extra wire up and zip tied it and left it to the right of the fuses


12) Reinstall fuse block not sure if it’s necessary or not but I put a little tape over the white and blue wires (not used) to prevent them shorting.


13) Go ahead and mount the gauge in the pod that your using, this is common since but remove the thumb screws from the back of the gauge and remove the retainer bracket, and slide the gauge in the hole in the pod and reinstall bracket and the thumb nuts.



14) Plug the power harness in the gauge, it plugs into the 4 pins to the right if you’re looking at the back of the gauge. NOTE this is a good time to reconnect the batt and turn key on to make sure your gauge has power. It should do a test sweep like 111…222…3333.4444.555.666 and then a p00 and then set at default 14.7 (maybe its 14.3 can’t remember) if it does, good, now disconnect the battery again.


05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished

Last edited by RUgoinUp; 05-09-2007 at 09:14 AM.
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post #2 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-08-2006, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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15) Take your pic put the car on a lift, jack stands whatever you prefer I used 2 ramps and 2 cinder blocks (<--Safety warning: Cinder blocks are not recommended)


16) If you drive the car onto the ramps be sure to disconnect the batt again
17) Get under the car and with a marker make a mark where you want to position the o2 sensor be sure to put it in an area where it has clearance remember it is about 2 inches long, AEM recommends it to be 36 inches away from the turbo and always before the cat for best results, this is where us catted guys are screwed, there is only one option and that is between the flex joint and the cat, this area is only about 16” away from the turbo but we really have no choice and I personally don’t think the heat will be too hot, hell the first o2 is only about 3 inches away from turbo!



18) Remove the 2nd (in cat) o2 sensor, I used a large adjustable wrench.
19) With lots of extensions, a ratchet and a 13mm socket remove the 3 lower nuts that hold the down pipe to the o2 housing, the top bolt is easy to get to with just the ratchet and socket by reaching from the top of the car, if you have never done this the top one is actually a bolt and the nut has a bent piece of flat stock welded to it (kinda acts as another wrench to hold the nut from turning while you tighten/loosen the bolt)


20) Next remove the bottom end of the down pipe from the rest of the exhaust , if you have aftermarket there is 3 nuts/bolts and if you have stock there is a 15mm(I think) nut to loosen and you have to twist it and slide it apart.

Here you can see that I made a mark on the DP I also marked the cattless DP too in case I decide to put it back on

21) Next you need to find someone who can drill a hole in the down pipe for you and weld in the bung, its best to tig weld it and request the welder to use stainless filler rod (so it wont rust) it would suck to rust a hole in your $1000 B&B exhaust because you used all purpose steel sorry no pics I did this part at work.



22) To have extra precaution I taped off the hole and the flat surface that the o2 housing sits against and painted the area with 2000 degree paint. This is not required but I did it just to protect it.
23) Now you can reinstall the down pipe I put the o2 sensor in first just cause there was not going to be much room to reach up in there after the pipe was on.


24) Reinstall eh stock o2 sensor
25) Locate the o2 wire bundle supplied with the gauge and rout it from the gauge to the o2 sensor that you just added to the down pipe, I ran mine through the boot that covers the steering rod, neatly hide the wires inside the dash,




26) Plug the harness into the AEM o2 sensor and the gauge nest to the first set of plugs you plugged in.


27) This is a good time to reconnect the battery and start the car. You should get a reading from the gauge, depending on weather and temp your gauge should read 14.xx to 16.xx something



28) If you painted the area around the weld like I did follow the directions that came with the paint, IT MUST BE CURED
29) Lots of people skip this step and that’s why there paint burns off after 20 miles my paint I used calls to idle for 10 min then cool for 10 then idle for 20 and cool for 20 then drive it like normal.
30) If the gauge works than its time to clean up and mount your pod, this is where your left with many options
31) You can reinstall the stock pillar and set the gauge pod over it drill a couple holes and use the supplied push clips supplied with the pod, I don’t like drilling holes in my car parts I wanted to keep the stock pillar in perfect cond. So I have heard that one guy used 3m double sided tape to tape the pillar pod to the stock pillar, I on the other hand decided to completely leave the stock pillar off as it opens a huge hole at the dash to run wires for future gauges.
32) I decided to use one one self tapping screw between two of the gauges to hold the pod in place I then painted the screw to match the pod color.



O hope this helps out, feel free to PM me for any questions.

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished

Last edited by RUgoinUp; 06-15-2006 at 04:44 PM.
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post #3 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Manufacturers Instructions (PDF)

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished

Last edited by westrock; 08-29-2007 at 04:08 AM.
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post #4 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 12:23 AM
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amazing write up. admin stick please. i want a UEGO really bad lol

Before:
After:

Now:
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post #5 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 12:42 AM
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Thumbs up

Very nice.
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post #6 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-14-2006, 12:52 AM
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interesting way to keep the pod up....


good write up.

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post #7 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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well i did not want too ruine the stock one and i never realized how cheap a new one was from the dealer, so that was the best thing, i ws going to make some brackets to hold it, but unfortunatly i ran out of time and the car had to be at the dealer the next morning, it wasas kind of a rush deal, it really dont look bad it is very secure and you dont really see the screw cause its hidden between the guages,

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished
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post #8 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-15-2006, 05:51 PM
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very nice write up. You could always paint the screw to match the pod.
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post #9 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-16-2006, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImportFan
very nice write up. You could always paint the screw to match the pod.

i did, but anyways i plan on making a bracket to mount it using the push pin that comes with it, i will use the same hole as the screw.

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished
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post #10 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-21-2006, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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sticky!

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished
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post #11 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-25-2006, 02:21 PM
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Sticky!!!!!!!

Sony A700 ~ SRT-less
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post #12 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-25-2006, 06:05 PM
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sticky"!!!!

Luis

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post #13 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-26-2006, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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you guys i have put lots of effort into this writeup i even pm'd mods and they wont sticky thanks for the comment though i know now next install i am not going to waste my time, well a few beniffitted from it but i would like everyone who wants help to see it.

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished
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post #14 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-26-2006, 09:26 AM
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It is a great write I wish I had it before I installed mine but I think that this is really usefull for others seems like It took you some time to prepare it

Great job

Luis

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post #15 of 331 (permalink) Old 01-26-2006, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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yes it did

05 orange blast aem SRI, MPX 3"tb exh, ED hard pipes, HKS SS BOV , motegi Mr7 semigloss black/polished
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