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Old 04-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How-To: Innovate MTX-L Wideband Install

*NOTICE*
I need to snap a few more pics and it may take a few days to get everything written down due to a busy schedule. Over all this isn't a hard install, But I seen a few tips and tricks that make the process easy.

Get yourself some wire from an auto parts store. Black red and white should do ya just fine to help you keep from mixing wires up. You can use whatever colors or even all the same color, just make sure you label them to keep things straight in your head. Buy two add-a-fuse while there so you woln't have to do any splicing. It makes the job simple and quick, plus if you ever need to pull the wideband out, its a simple task.

Now go to Radio Shack and buy 1 male 6 pin molex connector, 1 female 6 pin molex connector, a straight 2.5 mm mono headphone plug, and some small gauge speaker wire. (the mono plug and small gauge wire is if you plan on doing the analog data logging via dsp/dst. The kit does include a cable to datalog via laptop but you must supply your own serial to us cable. So you decide which you rather do.

For now, a few pics.

Gage Wires + a male 6 pin molex connector from Radio Shack



Twist and fold the wire like this.



Using a pair of micro pliers fold the tabs of the metal pin over the wire. I positioned the wire so that it made contact on the bottom of the pin and the tabs folded over the sheathing. You dont need to crimp down with all your might. These wires are thin and delicate. use just enough force to make sure the pin woln't slide off, but not enough to actually damage the wire.



Repeat on all five wires and then carefully shove the wires into the plastic plug.



*Not pictured*
Now take 2 and a half feet of red, and white wire and attach the female pins. For the black (ground) you will want to take 2 and a half feet of wire and the ground from the wire you will be using for your 2.5 mm headphone jack. twist them together and then attach them to a female pin. You want the gauge and the 2.5 mm jack to share a ground so that way their is no variance in the reading between the gauge and your dsp/dst. Now take the other side of the wire for the jack and attach your pin. From here I would put the plastic plugs together and then insert your wires. This will keep you from goofing up and aaccidently putting a pin in the wrong hole.



*Not pictured*
Open your driver side door. Pull the door seal down from around your a pillar (against your windshield) and dash. Pull the a pillar cover from the top edge where it meets the headliner down toward the center of your steering wheel. It has two metal clips the fasten the top and middle of it to the car. Nothing special here, just pull gently. Repeat these steps on the passenger side. Now you need to pull off the top of the dash. On the left and right sides are two philips screws, and two more in the center where the defrost vent is. Once all 4 screws are out, lift up at the huge lip that goes over the spedo. Now that your dash is raised up follow the 2 wires and vacuum line coming from your boost gauge. Unplug your wires and pull the hose from the boot it's connected too. Now the dash is free and you can pull it out.























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Old 04-14-2011, 10:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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exactly what I did to run my wideband outside
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I remembered reading something from North saying that he prefers to run his wire through that location. I'm super glad I remembered that because I couldn't get the wire through the steering wheel boot (and didn't like the idea of the wire being rubbed constantly). And I sure as hell couldn't get the wire through the firewall where the wire harness goes through. I think that's pretty much the only reason why I am doing the how-to lol... After 8 months on the forum I think I only heard of routing wires through there twice.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Is it possible to datalog AFR with this wideband and a DSP? I thought the answer was no, but maybe I misunderstood something along the way. I am installing this wideband in a friends car today. Why do you need the male and female molex connectors?
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So I guess we will just ignore the 2.5mm headphone plug? Since the owner uses a DSP.

But we may be able to datalog AFR with a serial to USB cable?
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Old 11-12-2011, 03:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you can use the analog out wire for datalogging on the trinity.
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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What fuse did you tap into? Is it live even when the engine is not running but the key is on acc?
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by protivakid View Post
What fuse did you tap into? Is it live even when the engine is not running but the key is on acc?

the how-to for the aem uego suggests one of the blue wiper wires
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Old 05-11-2012, 05:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SRT-4 THE WIN View Post
the how-to for the aem uego suggests one of the blue wiper wires

Is there a wire that only is powered when the engine is running?

I have heard fuse #6 (AC-htr blower motor) may work. Thoughts?
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Fuse #6 works
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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im not exactly sure what wires you are attaching to the 2.5mm headphone jack and how any photo of this would greatly help I want to be able to hook this into my ttrinity thanks in advance
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok I am about to install my AEM wideband guage and have a quick question about how to power it. I will get an ADD A FUSE/Circuit thingy as pictured...


I crimp the red wire from the AEM wideband into the blue part of the add a fuse. Now, I remove a fuse from the stock srt4 fuse box (which one...wiper blade?) then insert the add a fuse into that slot. Which slot do I put the stock wiper fuse into the add a fuse? The slot closer to the add a fuse male connectors or the slot further away from the male connectors?
Also, which number fuse do I add in extra for the other slot on the add a fuse for the AEM Wideband power?

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Old 06-13-2012, 01:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 08LS3_Z51 View Post
Ok I am about to install my AEM wideband guage and have a quick question about how to power it. I will get an ADD A FUSE/Circuit thingy as pictured...


I crimp the red wire from the AEM wideband into the blue part of the add a fuse. Now, I remove a fuse from the stock srt4 fuse box (which one...wiper blade?) then insert the add a fuse into that slot. Which slot do I put the stock wiper fuse into the add a fuse? The slot closer to the add a fuse male connectors or the slot further away from the male connectors?
Also, which number fuse do I add in extra for the other slot on the add a fuse for the AEM Wideband power?

I personally didn't bother with the add-a-fuse. I took my fuse panel out and tapped into the blue wiper wires for power, then put the fuse panel back in where it goes. On the add-a-fuse I originally got for the job, the slot closest to the add-a-fuse male connectors gave me power, but I actually had to use my multimeter to figure that out, as I found (much to my chagrin) that the add-a-fuse I got didn't actually fit.

I did this wideband along with my scangauges and QTP downpipe with e-cutout just yesterday, and for the most part, the install went great. Now what I need to figure out is why the data displayed on my wideband is dancing around like Richard Simmons on crystal meth. According to the pictures in this how-to, I might have not installed the O2 sensors in the right bungs...

EDIT: I got the sensors in the right bungs, but didn't calibrate my sensor properly. OP might want to add info on how to do this into the how-to; even though it's in the Quick Start guide, buyers of used gauges with no instructions will benefit.

Before installing the o2 sensor into the downstream bung, be sure to connect the sensor to the gauge and power everything up. HtR will display on the gauge for a few moments as the o2 sensor reaches operating temperature, then displays CAL for a moment as the gauge takes maximum signal voltage, pairs it to the free sensor, then defaults to its upper limit of 22.4. NOW screw the o2 sensor back into the downstream bung (don't forget a small dab of anti-seize) and...voila! You can now monitor and (if a DSP user) datalog AFR!
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So I just picked up my MTX-L today for a steal ($160 new in box) and quickly checked through box for contents and instructions.

I understand how to install, which is not that difficult, however I'm a little confused about the datalogging aspect of it.

I'm assuming the serial cable included with the wideband is for datalogging with a laptop only, meaning it won't attach to my Predator.

So based on this write up it looks like you're making a vehicle side wiring harness to accomplish two things: Provide power and signal to the gauge, and then to provide an out signal to your datalogging device, correct?

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Old 06-21-2012, 11:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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That's about what paid for mine...got it off eBay from some performance parts warehouse in Texas.

The Predator has a serial port on it for the exact purpose of connecting it to stuff (including your PC, if you bought the PC update kit with your Predator). Ideally, you would connect your wideband's serial cable to your Predator and your Predator to the OBD2 port before logging, then view the logs later on the computer. The headphone cable is for those who are logging with different devices, so I skipped that step too considering I also use a DSP.

Sounds like the next stop for us new MTX-L owners will be the tuning section...
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