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Old 07-18-2006, 03:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How To: GREDDY Profec-B SPEC 2 (With Pics)

hellow this is something we really need in the how to's

Take the positive/negative terminals off of the battery. 10mm.Next take the 13mm bolt in the center rear of the battery. Loosen enough to get the battery out. When taking out the battery remember to unplug that battery warmer connector. Once the battery and warmer are out you should have a clear view of the vacuum lines. You may also want to take out your intake for more clearance.


Next find a good mounting spot for the Profect. The passenger side REAR 10mm bolt on the battery tray is a nice spot for the Profec solenoid. I attached the bracket for the solenoid with the supplied hardware. I used the stock 10mm nut it fit fine with the bracket for the solenoid. For a better fit I bent up the bracket so it would fit better. Next I did the vacuum line hookup.


Now take your solenoid and the two NPT fittings that came with it (gold colored with Teflon tape). Take 3 plastic caps off solenoid. Install the two fittings into the solenoid. 10mm wrench. One goes in the NO threads and the other in the COM threads. Plug vacuum line from T into the nipple marked NO and then run a vacuum line from the nipple marked COM to the WGA. Cap the original WGA line. This setup assumes that you are running an aftermarket WGA (AGP/Rage). Ziptie all your lines if you want to. Suggested.





Once that is done your turbo vacuum lines are done.

Next is the harness for the solenoid. It clips into the end of the solenoid connector. The other end (white small connector) needs to go through the firewall. I took a coat hanger and pushed it through the grommet behind the driver side strut on the firewall. It will have a large bundle of wires in it. I then taped the white end of the solenoid connector to the coat hanger and pulled it through the grommet. It should end up near your feet on the left side inside the car near the pedals. Just pull 3-4 feet of the wire into the car.


Once you have done this you are done under the hood. You can put the intake/battery/battery warmer back in. Before you do that you should zip tie any of the wires for the solenoid out of the way

Once that is done move inside the car for the rest of the install.

So now take apart the dash. A pillars have to come off. Be careful of the clips. Next there are 4 screws holding the dash on. One on each side (drivers/passengers) at the ends of the dash. There are also two in the vents in the middle of the dash. Use a stubby phillips to get those.Once the screws are out you can carefully remove the upper dash. It should pull out towards you and up. The boost gauge will still be installed. We left it installed for the installation. Be careful not to pull out the wires. Next run the line from the solenoid up through the dash. There should be an opening near the vent in the front of the dash. Just pull it up through the top and leave for now.



Next is the power/ground connector for the Profect-B


My power connector is splised into the main fuse box the Black with white stripe, and ground is conected next to radio


Next is the Boost source part. You can do this different ways.

I took off the factory line from the boost gauge. Then took off the rubber connector that goes from that line into the boost gauge. I put a small piece of the 4mm vacuum line provided in the kit on the end of the factory hard line. That went into one end of a Vacuum T or Y. The two other ends on the Vacuum T or Y should have nothing on them at this time. I then used the same 4mm Vacuum tubing and connected one end of the T or Y to the Profect-B. The other end of the T went to a small piece of 4mm tubing it then went into one end of the Male-Male Vacuum extender. The other side went to the factory boost gauge rubber connector. That then went into the Boost gauge. You will have to measure to see where you want to go for the vacuum lines and such.




Make all your connections to the Profect-B. Tuck any extra wires under the dash. Ziptie or tape if needed. Dry run the Profect-B to make sure all your connections are working. Just turn on the car and start it up. It should start reading Boost pressure in Kpa. If you hit the gas and it moves you should be all set. Put your dash back together same way it came apart. You can use the double sided tape that came with the Profect-B to mount it in to the dash.

Clean up and get everything together and then have some fun.

Last edited by trunks0112000 : 07-19-2006 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 04:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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very nice write up...i give it an A+++
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Old 07-18-2006, 04:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ohh and u put it on the driver side of the battery holder, not the passanger side, but it doesnt matter
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Old 07-21-2006, 01:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i have a question, why do you go center port ("NO") to WGA??? on the diagram, center port go to the TURBO!!!





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Old 07-24-2006, 06:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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which way is the best/correct?
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Old 08-16-2006, 12:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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LOL The GReddy diagram is the exact opposite of your pic.

NO comes FROM the turbo and COM goes TO the WGA.
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok, so which one is correct? i have mine hooked up the way the frist one is......
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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How do you guys like the Profec-B? I have experience with it and I hated it. Installed a bunch on Evos and I absolutly hate the damn things? I'll stick to the Hallman MBC or an HKS EVC Easy
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by FraziersSRT


No don't plug the hole, it strictly says to not plug so don't plug. I guess that on bleeds out the air

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Old 08-24-2006, 01:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Question

Also at first I did it the way the srt diagram said but it doesn't work that way, 1st of all the blue line does not give no vacuum to the greedy BC which suck cause I actually drove the car around like that for like a day. also in the greedy Manuel it says as shown ^^^^^ in my pics.
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