Installation is very easy for this Electronic Boost Controller.
Supplies needed:
The kit comes with almost everything you will need.
Extra stuff you will need.
I used a vacuum Y and a male-male vacuum extension for the boost source.
Zip ties are your friend also.
Tools socket/extensions 10mm,13mm sockets. 10mm wrench.
Phillips/Flathead screwdrivers. Stubby Phillips.
First of all get all your tools then get ready to start.
Take the positive/negative terminals off of the battery. 10mm
Next take the 13mm bolt in the center rear of the battery. Loosen enough to get the battery out. When taking out the battery remember to unplug that battery warmer connector. Once the battery and warmer are out you should have a clear view of the vacuum lines. You may also want to take out your intake for more clearance.
Next find a good mounting spot for the Profect. The passenger side REAR 10mm bolt on the battery tray is a nice spot for the Profec solenoid. I attached the bracket for the solenoid with the supplied hardware. I used the stock 10mm nut it fit fine with the bracket for the solenoid. For a better fit I bent up the bracket so it would fit better. Next I did the vacuum line hookup.
On the car that I did, person had a Mopar BOV. We used the green line to T into. What I did was take the soft line off of the green line after the bend from the turbo. Used the vacuum lines that came with the Profect and cut 2 pieces about 3-4" long. one line goes into one end of the green line the other goes into the other end of the green line. Then those same lines go into the T provided in the kit. This should leave you with an open nipple on the T.
Now take your solenoid and the two NPT fittings that came with it (gold colored with Teflon tape). Take 3 plastic caps off solenoid. Install the two fittings into the solenoid. 10mm wrench. One goes in the NO threads and the other in the COM threads. Plug vacuum line from T into the nipple marked NO and then run a vacuum line from the nipple marked COM to the WGA. Cap the original WGA line. This setup assumes that you are running an aftermarket WGA (AGP/Rage). Ziptie all your lines if you want to. Suggested.
Once that is done your turbo vacuum lines are done.
Put the 10mm bolt back on the battery tray. This will secure the solenoid.
Next is the harness for the solenoid. It clips into the end of the solenoid connector. The other end (white small connector) needs to go through the firewall. I was lucky the car I worked on had a power wire for a system so there was already a hole in the firewall. I took a coat hanger and pushed it through the grommet behind the driver side strut on the firewall. It will have a large bundle of wires in it. I then taped the white end of the solenoid connector to the coat hanger and pulled it through the grommet. It should end up near your feet on the left side inside the car near the pedals. Just pull 3-4 feet of the wire into the car.
Once you have done this you are done under the hood. You can put the intake/battery/battery warmer back in. Before you do that you should zip tie any of the wires for the solenoid out of the way.
Once that is done move inside the car for the rest of the install.
Find a place to mount your Profect-B. This will determine where you need to run the lines.
We decided since the turbo timer was in the lower pocket below the radio we would install it right next to the boost gauge on the right of the gauge.
So now take apart the dash. A pillars have to come off. Be careful of the clips. Next there are 4 screws holding the dash on. One on each side (drivers/passengers) at the ends of the dash. There are also two in the vents in the middle of the dash. Use a stubby phillips to get those.
Once the screws are out you can carefully remove the upper dash. It should pull out towards you and up. The boost gauge will still be installed. We left it installed for the installation. Be careful not to pull out the wires. Next run the line from the solenoid up through the dash. There should be an opening near the vent in the front of the dash. Just pull it up through the top and leave for now.
Next is the power/ground connector for the Profect-B
I used the aftermarket radio power/ground I cut the existing wire and just spliced into power/ground. I made sure to use a switched 12v source on the radio. Once that is done I ran the connector up through the top of the dash like the solenoid harness.
Next is the Boost source part. You can do this different ways.
I didn't want to cut the factory hard line so what I did was this.
I took off the factory line from the boost gauge. Then took off the rubber connector that goes from that line into the boost gauge. I put a small piece of the 4mm vacuum line provided in the kit on the end of the factory hard line. That went into one end of a Vacuum T or Y. The two other ends on the Vacuum T or Y should have nothing on them at this time. I then used the same 4mm Vacuum tubing and connected one end of the T or Y to the Profect-B. The other end of the T went to a small piece of 4mm tubing it then went into one end of the Male-Male Vacuum extender. The other side went to the factory boost gauge rubber connector. That then went into the Boost gauge. You will have to measure to see where you want to go for the vacuum lines and such.
Next for a good install I drilled two holes in the lower part of the upper dash. One for the wiring to the Profect and the other for the Vacuum line. I ended up with a half moon shape on the bottom of the Upper dash. I made the left side big enough for the power/ground wires and the solenoid wires. The right side was bigger to fit the 4mm vacuum line. I did this so when you put the dash back on you are not pinching the wires/lines.
Make all your connections to the Profect-B. Tuck any extra wires under the dash. Ziptie or tape if needed. Dry run the Profect-B to make sure all your connections are working. Just turn on the car and start it up. It should start reading Boost pressure in Kpa. If you hit the gas and it moves you should be all set. Put your dash back together same way it came apart. You can use the double sided tape that came with the Profect-B to mount it in to the dash.
Clean up and get everything together and then have some fun.
As far as the tuning goes I did not get to do much. If anyone has any input on this please let me know so I can add it to this How-To.
I know for the car I did he had the Rage WGA set for 14psi.
He was then going to use the Profect-B to up his boost to 17-18 dropping to 15-16 at redline.
Any questions or comments please ask.
Tuning.
Your set gain and gain are too far apart. Try setting them within 7 digits of one another and go from there, this is currently how I have mine.
I will try to post my numbers here later to give you a starting point. I'd do it right now, but I don't have them on me.
Here is some info I found on another forum that should help you out:
Definitions and things you need to know before you start:
SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).
GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.
START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).
WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).
LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.
PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.
LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.
Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.
Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.
Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.
The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:
1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.
2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.
The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.
Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
Here are some number that some of the people on the board are using.
I would start from the base and work from there. Every car will be different.
My low setting is at 15 psi, with no dropoff. I have the Rage WGA with the 12-15psi spring. I usually run with my low setting on the street or turn my EBC off. I currently hold 14 psi with the EBC off.
LO--
Set Boost: 30%
Gain: 20 psi
Set Gain: 23 psi
My high setting is set at 18 and has about a 2 psi drop off. Unless you are completely in it, there is compressor surge when shifting within your low RPM range. So this setting is really completely useless for normal street driving.
HI--
Set Boost: 45%
Gain: 20 psi
Set Gain: 38 psi
I hope this helps.
Adding the in the end for Big turbo guys with Wastegates that have a top and bottom nipple.
If you are running the profec B spec II EBC then your line setup will be as follows:
On the solenoid - make sure that you have "nipples" couming out of COM & NC port. Also make sure those are in tight - as any leaks would screw everything up. Then, run a line from the compressor side of the turbo to the bottom part of the wastegate. Give yourself some slack. Best place that I've found for this hose if if you give it some decent slack & then run it to the front towards the engine cover, zip tie it to your distributor cap on the engine, & then have it going to the bottom part of the wastegate. This way it won't be exposed to as much head as it would if it were in between the turbo & the firewall.....
So, so far we run a line from the compressor side of the turbo to the bottom of the wastegate. Then, find a place where you will be mounting your solenoid. With just a bit bending you will be able to place it nicely on the driver side & closer to the firewall bolt that is holding down the battery tray. DOn't put it in yet, as it will be alot easier to run lines to it while it is out. Now, you can measure how much line you need to go from the TOP of the wastegate to the COM port. Run that line & hook everything up. Then find a good place to "T"-into the first line that we run & put a plastic T in it. & from that nipple run a line over to the NC port on your solenoid.
Recap - COmpressor to bottom of the wastegate - also tinto this line & take it to NC port. Then run a line from COM to the TOP of the wastegate. & you're all done.
Also, I figured out the way that the wastegate & EBC operate so it all makes sense. Probably will to you as well.
Wastegate is being closed shut by the spring inside of it. You run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom of the wastegate. As the turbo builds pressure so will the pressure on the underside of the wastegate increase. This will push up on the spring & open up the wastegate. Now, it is obvious that any leaks in this line would result in no pressure buildup on the bottom of the wastegate so it would never open. Causing your boost to keep rising.... So, - when you T into this line it goes to the NC port (Normally Closed). So, no leaks would develop. Now, top of the wastegate is open to atmosphere. BUT - with profec - when the solenoid activates - it will open the port from NC to the COM (com goes to NC & NO - & when one is open the other is closed). SO, what is going on now is that you're sending pressure from the turbo to the upper part of the wastegate as well & this will press down together with the spring to keep the wastegate shut. So, boost keeps rising. Once desided boost is achieved - the solenoid will start closing a bit - shutting off the pressure going to the top part of the wastegate & causing the wastegate to start opening. ALso, every time you're sending pressure to the upper part of the wastegate - you're also decreasing pressure to the bottom part of it. & vice versa. So, now that you understand this as well - it will be no brainer setting it up.
HOW-TO: GReddy Profec-B Spec 2 Install
. im starting to learn it now, and thx for the good write up.
But awesome write up, I'll use it in about a week when I put that many miles on there.. 
Hopefully, cali figures out the kinks with the analog signal switch.. 
Linear Mode
