How-To: Front Brakes and Rotors Install

[SRT-4_I_SWEAR]

First thing is i would like to give credit to scottphphq and his HOW-TO: Brake & Rotor Install as I followed his write-up for the install, but I made a few changes and took a couple more pictures so hopefully it's easy to understand.

Tools needed:
12mm socket and box end
18mm socket and box end
4" or larger C-clamp
Jack
Lug nut wrench
Sand paper
Bailing wire or Clothes Hanger or Bungee Cord or Rope

Instructions (made simple hopefully)

1) Take off cap from brake reservoir and pack around with rags/towels.



2) Jack up one side of vehicle



3) Remove Wheel



4) Use 12mm wrench to remove the upper portion of the caliper



5) Pulling the caliper off, was only hand tight didn't need to pry with a hammer on my car.



6) Attach the caliper to the front spring with one of the materials listed as not to strain the brake line.



7) Use 18mm wrench to remove the lower caliper assembly (this is the part that holds your pads).



8) Remove the assembly, notice that small metal piece on the rear of the inside pad (the one closer to the engine)



9) Remove rotor, mine came of pretty easy but with a light tap from rubber mallet or pulling real hard it should come off without incident.



10) Lightly sand new rotors if they have white hazy coating.



11) Place new rotor on studs, reattach the lower caliper assembly. Notice how the socket won't fit on the top bolt which was why i had to use a crescent wrench but a box end would be a much better option.



12) Place new pads on lower assembly just you removed them earlier, I promise this is not a difficult step but i do appologize for not getting a picture of it, but the other brake write up has a good picture of what is to be done.

13) Not difficult but one of the more important steps. Take your C- clamp and rest stationary portion of the C-clam on the back of the upper assembly, twist the C-clamp into the piston until the piston is nearly flush. This will push fluid back towards the reservoir which is why you removed the cap and packed with towels.



14) Attach the upper assembly over the new pads and attach with the 12mm bolts.



15) Replace the wheel



Repeat for the other side.

Brake in the pads as directed by the manufacture and your done.

[clearymp]

Thanks, the breaks were easier to replace than I thought

[MDRACER]

I would recommend torqueing all the bolts and the lug nuts to factory specs

[crazymadbastard]

A couple of suggestions.

1. See that rubber nipple on the caliper? remove it and loosen the bleeder before pressing the piston back in- it will squirt the nasty old fluid out instead of sending it back through the expensive abs unit. You can also clamp the rubber line with a vise grip to avoid any fluid to go back up. I also suck out the old fluid from the master reservoir(turkey baster from the dollar store is good for this) and put some fresh fluid in there. If you have a helper it is a good time to bleed the brakes too.

2. Pump the brakes to expand the piston so you don't drive it and have the pedal go to the floor.

And use a jack stand or at least put the wheel under the car- Just in case.

[jmihalchik]

also clean the hub with wire brush and cleaner so the rotor does not sit on any rust or crud.