This is a write up i have sort of seen before. I have a solar yellow srt-4 2003 and it just didnt look right. couldnt figure out why. so i steped back and thought, "it needs new shoes." the right wheel combination is CRITICAL. as critical as the choice of color. i have worked on TOP dollar street rods and restros and the wheel combination starts at the beging of the build and continues through the whole process. what alot of people dont get is that factory wheels, many times are amazing wheels just with the wrong finish. i loved my factory wheels and decided that black powerd coat was the way to go. checking the price it was going to run me 260+ to blast and coat all the wheels. I thought about painting my wheels and was VERY hesitant to paint using spray cans. but i figured for 40 dollars, if it didnt work then i can still get them powder coated. IT WORKED AMAZINGLY AND GAVE ME ALL KINDS OF CONTROL AND OPTIONS!!! you can do multiple colors, control the gloss if any, stripes, shapes, solids, colors etc. so i decided to save you all some money and give you a write up on how to do this yourself. This will only cost you around 20-40 dollars and last a long time. all of these things are available and kragen auto or autozone and this can be done in your drive way in under 6 hours.
here is a list of matierials needed.
*1 pack of 220 grit 3m imperial wet or dry sandpaper - 6.90ish + tax.
*2 - 3 cans of duplicolor engine enamel. (matt, low gloss, high gloss, semi gloss.). comes in black, green, red, brushed metal, and crome. up to 500* heat tollerance. - 5.90Ish + tax.
*1 can of Auto Prep grease and wax remover. arrosole can - 6.00ish +tax.
*sponge.
*dry towle.
*jack.
*jack stands.
*resperator. **FOR SAFTY: STAY OUT SIDE IN WELL VENTELATED AREA**.
OK once all of these products are picked up at your local auto zone/kragen auto supply begin by jacking your vehicles front end up by placing your jack in the middle of the front axle. Make sure that your car is in gear, with the E-Brake on, and the back wheels being blocked by cinder blocks, wheel blocks etc. You may need to place somthing about 1- 1 1/2 inches tall behind your front wheels and back on to them to make room to get your jack under the side skirts of your vehicle. BEFORE lifting the front end, losen all lugnuts on front wheels then raise it. DO NOT, DO NOT, leave your car elevated by the jack. if for some reason the jacks hydrolics go badd you will be in a badd siutation real quick. USE TWO JACKSTANDS UNDER THE FRONT AXLE FOR SUPPORT PLEASE!!! your elevated vehicle can now have the front wheels removed. plase remove only one at a time that way you can get your vehicle back to driving abilities quickly with out having to put 3 wheels back on and what not. take off one wheel and set it aside. tire and all.
Now you will want to wash your wheel with water and a sponge. no soap is requierd this is just to remove break dust, dirt, grime, etc.
once a stable clean area has presented its self move on to your supplies. you will have 220 grit sandpaper. please fold and tear one sheet in half "long" ways.
then fold one piece into three areas and fold on itself. this gives you the beinifit of having three fresh peices of sand paper with minimal waisted paper. also ensures and very welcome grip.
wet sand your wheel. meaning with a flushing flow of water, sand/scuff the surface of you wheel. you will see a definate difference and will feel a more ruff surface on the areas you have you sanded. remember this, any area you DONT sand WONT hold paint. so sand the rim of the wheel, lug nut holes, inset wheel parts, anything you want painted. onec its all sanded you will notice that water does not bead.
NOW you dry the area with a clean towle and heres where the sergicle like proceedures take place. use the Auto Prep, and spray it on your wheel. let set for 1 minute then whipe away with a dry clean towel. DO NOT TOUTCH THIS WHEEL ANYMORE. any grease from fingure prints will result in paint failing to stick to your wheels.
Take your paint can and shake it for 2 minutes then test spray is on a pice of paper/cardboard. then, using the can 8-12 inches away, spray your wheel with a light, frost coat. make sure you go after the hard parts first. every ten minutes, apply a new coat until satisfied with coverage.
let stand for 3 hours then place back on your vehicle. the finish looks pro and lasts a long time.
if you get chips or crack, just toutch up the area. This was my first write up. i hope it helped some. please excuse the typos. feed back please.
Yay for another "How to rattle paint your wheels" thread...
__________________
"Been in a palace, been in a jail, I just don't want to be reborn a snail
Just want to spend eternity, Right where I am, on the sunnyside of the street"
i almost got excited, until i clicked the thread... oh well, it did remind me that i need to get my friend to PC my wheels... the real method that is!
THE REAL METHOD. I pay and send my hard work else where. then i say look at MY car. i am getting them powder coated later but this gets the powdercoated finish look AS IT SAYS IN TITLE until me or others can aford 260+ for powder coating.
i ran into a thousand guys like you. going to pay me 50-80k to build your street rod. i spend month if not years working sweating thinking bleading to build the best fucking car i can and then you have the balls to take it to a show and call it YOUR car. how many of MY blue ribbon cars awards were awarded to people who did nothing more than write checks?
Last edited by Para-diddle : 10-22-2008 at 05:07 PM.
THE REAL METHOD. I pay and send my hard work else where. then i say look at MY car. i am getting them powder coated later but this gets the powdercoated finish look AS IT SAYS IN TITLE until me or others can aford 260+ for powder coating.
i ran into a thousand guys like you. going to pay me 50-80k to build your street rod. i spend month if not years working sweating thinking bleading to build the best fucking car i can and then you have the balls to take it to a show and call it YOUR car. how many of MY blue ribbon cars awards were awarded to people who did nothing more than write checks?
lol, thats some funny shit... i have never paid anyone to do ANYTHING to my car, its all been done by me. i don't have the tools to powder coat, but a friend does, and hopefully my wheels will fit in his oven. if not then, YES, ill take my work to a someone who can get it done. i painted my stockers too a long time ago, and regret it, nothing compares to PC.
since you started it...
i am 21 years old paying my OWN way through Clemson University, working towards a 4 year degree in graphic communications. I pay for EVERYTHING by myself, out of my own pocket. every penny of my car was paid by me. i pay my car insurance, cell phone, rent, gas, food, doctor bills, clothes, books, etc.... the list goes on... so next time keep your hands in your pockets before you start typing about someone you don't know.
and for the record, your how-to fucking sucks, the pictures look like garbage, and the write-up sucks. there is a GOOD proper how-to located in the how-to section(go figure!)...
THE REAL METHOD. I pay and send my hard work else where. then i say look at MY car. i am getting them powder coated later but this gets the powdercoated finish look AS IT SAYS IN TITLE until me or others can aford 260+ for powder coating.
i ran into a thousand guys like you. going to pay me 50-80k to build your street rod. i spend month if not years working sweating thinking bleading to build the best fucking car i can and then you have the balls to take it to a show and call it YOUR car. how many of MY blue ribbon cars awards were awarded to people who did nothing more than write checks?
i just realized one other thing, then im done with this bs... if you get paid 50-80k to build a car, and are building blue ribbon cars, then how the hell are you to cheap to get the wheels properly powder-coated, on top of that, you MUST know somebody that PC's if you have spent so much time in the industry building all these award winning vehicles...
i just realized one other thing, then im done with this bs... if you get paid 50-80k to build a car, and are building blue ribbon cars, then how the hell are you to cheap to get the wheels properly powder-coated, on top of that, you MUST know somebody that PC's if you have spent so much time in the industry building all these award winning vehicles...
yes as matter of fact if you read what i wrote, I AM GOING TO GET THEM POWDER COATED. for the mean time scince i need this car everyday to drive to work and school i painted them to get the look i needed. YES i do have a shop i go to for blasting and powdercoating. they do it all there. save some money buy the medium and blast it yourself at this shop then they powder coat because liability and what not.
thats 80k- matierials, - over head, - employee pay etc. i would be more than willing to show you the vehicles i have worked on if it puts your mind at ease? im not the owner of the shop. this is how the chain goes, OWNER>ME>car. its only two of us. he pays me an hourly wage and pockets the rest but both our names are on the car. if your big into street rods from the east and socal you may know who he is.
i dont know why you had to go patting yourself on the back. i never questioned your ability to fund yourself. i just said you pay to have your work done. simple as that. it doesnt calibrate to you are poor. cant be poor and buy preimium fuel. glad to see your going to school. i am to. community college but sucks none the less. understandably you cant PC at your house. i work at a shop and we dont PC. its to many tools needed. we also dont make interiors. to big a space requierd. theres always links in the chain but the difference is, when WE are asked, "what has been done to that car?" we say, "well the crome is from such and such, we built the engine that was donated by this guy and..." give credit. the customers will say, "well i got a crome grill, 454 chevy under the hood, i had the door handles shaved..."
I know this write up sucks and i know theres alot of how to paint your wheels write ups on the forums. i know my pictures are blurry if they even show up half the time. but i wanted to make sure that the guys who are feeling the crunch still know how to get a cool custom look with the pride of DIY and make their car their own with out breaking the bank.
Agree to disagree?
EDIT**************
1934 pontiac striat 8. "waskley wabets" solid wood dash and accent pieces on door pannels, complete restoration job done to the engine. the rest was built to taist. its a coustom color made form 5 kandy tonners and the character lines were painted as follows, the silver metalic base was thrown on and then the character lines were painted with a decent coat of kandy purple, tangerine, and small ammounts or red. leaving a transparent tint if you will. then the car was painted as if the character lines were never there and with some magic, when the sun hits it, you get a hint of POP from the character lines though its not a distinc color difference. plays with your eyes. never clear coat a car that didnt have it on it when it rolled off the line.
1-2 years. tripple didget car.
1940 ford delievery. "old yeller" nick named by its owner who drag races this thing and runs around a 15-14 1/4 mile. not a high dollar car especialy scince he is building a rolling chasie at his house and we are going to meet body and frame later. its a yellow color that will be thrown on it. in the picture its in high build polly primmer though now its been painted, color sanded, machine rubbed and pollished. ran into an issue with this one, not having the frame makes it difficult to move around. spent only about one day in the booth.
1927 dodge strait 8. complete floor to roof bolt to seals restoration job. musium quality. tripple diget car. enine is painted to match the out side of the car. took about 1 year to do, verry happy coustomer.
you can see the ford delivery in the background on this one check it out.
one of two 1947 merc coupes im doing. this one is going to be painted with a mirror finish deep soul blue and flammed with a kandy tangerine lead going to a crisp pinstriped finish of hot kandy red and kandy purple mix. the rear fenders were flared 3 inches in the back, and 1 1/2 inches in the front. the whole front group is off a 40s ford. mustange 2 suspension, ford 9inch rear end, frenched everything, chevey power train (i know it should be sinful) and nearly 3-4 coats of high build polly primmer as it is in now durring these pics. 60kish.
the other 47. no flarred fenders, ford front group, simliar guts, leaded three piece hood into one piece, call vent delete, extended body lines, frenched everything, leaded rear fenders to body as we did with the first one, going to have a deep blue paint job with pearlesant silver gohst flames taistfuly done. this is an old picture i dont have updated ones but its all in uniford 195 and high build polly primer nearing paint. shaved door handles custom blanked out dash being done for a college near by. these pictures were takent the day we had married the hood back on the car and mocked everything up for radiator core supports. brought some friends over haha.
Last edited by Para-diddle : 10-23-2008 at 11:26 AM.
well that we agree on. btw your hood is SICK. admitedly we cant make our own wheels lol but i will say i miss jugde you. i agree that paint should be a verry temporary solution on wheels. as far as im concerned PC is the only way to go with wheels. do you know how the get factory colors on wheels? i have seen matched pc wheels. i think im going to delete this thread. theres already a sticky of it. ill wait for you to see this then ill delete it. pm if you need somthing.
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HOW TO:- DIY powder coat wheel finish 40$ (color choices to).
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