well, i searched hi and lo on the forums and did not find any useflu information regarding the installation of the non-modular ACT clutch, sooooo i took pics as i went along for you guys and here is what you will need to know in order to complete the install yourself!
1-follow the directions for transmission removal found here: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216148
2-remove old clutch from bellhousing (it slides right off the input shaft, be careful not to drop it on your toes...its heavy)
3-remove throwout bearing from clutch lever (its slides up and then out)
4-remove factory installed flywheel (17mm socket and impact wrench are helpful)
5-open up all your new clutch goodies and clean them off. they are covered with a mild anti corrosion coating from the factory that will cause chatter and slippage if you dont clean it off. I used denatured alcohol solvent to clean my stuff. you can pick it up at darn near any hardware store in the paint removal supplies area. do not get the solvent on the pucks, as i dont know if it would deteriorate the epoxies used to hold them together. not worth the risk. just clean the solid surfaces, and ESPECIALLY the mating surfaces
6-determine the bolt pattern alignment for the flywheel. it wont look like it at first glance, but the bolt pattern is NOT symmetrical. some of the holes are further apart than others, and the flywheel will only bolt on ONE way. once you have determined the proper alignment of the holes, start the threads of each bolt (included in the kit) but do not tighten them at all yet. it should look like this:
make sure that the dowels for the cover are showing on the outside. if the dowels are facing the block, youve got it backwards.
7-remove each bolt one by one and apply threadlock on each one. the factory specification from dodge calls for blue medium strength locker, but in a high performance application it is recommended by ACT to use a high strength, so i used the RED threadlock. once applied to the threads, install each bolt finger tight for now.
8-toque down flywheel bolts. Dodge service manual calls for 70 ft/lb, but again, ACT recommends a slightly higher TQ than this. I took mine up to 90 ft/lb. use a cross-star pattern when beginning to tq bolts down, just like a wheel. once all bolts are tight, go all the way around and double check TQ settings for even-ness. it will look like this when done:
9-install pilot bushing (included in kit) the factory clutch setup does not use a pilot bushing as the clutch assy. slides directly onto the input shaft. since we arent doing that, you will need this bushing to align the clutch disc properly. insert it into the crank end with the flanged end facing outward. tap it in with a mallot. no hard tools should be used to tap it in as they could damage it and make it uneven or difficult to use. it should look like this:
10-grease inner spline of clutch disc lightly. this is just to make it easier for the input shaft to slide in and not sieze up.
1-follow the directions for transmission removal found here: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216148
2-remove old clutch from bellhousing (it slides right off the input shaft, be careful not to drop it on your toes...its heavy)
3-remove throwout bearing from clutch lever (its slides up and then out)
4-remove factory installed flywheel (17mm socket and impact wrench are helpful)
5-open up all your new clutch goodies and clean them off. they are covered with a mild anti corrosion coating from the factory that will cause chatter and slippage if you dont clean it off. I used denatured alcohol solvent to clean my stuff. you can pick it up at darn near any hardware store in the paint removal supplies area. do not get the solvent on the pucks, as i dont know if it would deteriorate the epoxies used to hold them together. not worth the risk. just clean the solid surfaces, and ESPECIALLY the mating surfaces
6-determine the bolt pattern alignment for the flywheel. it wont look like it at first glance, but the bolt pattern is NOT symmetrical. some of the holes are further apart than others, and the flywheel will only bolt on ONE way. once you have determined the proper alignment of the holes, start the threads of each bolt (included in the kit) but do not tighten them at all yet. it should look like this:
make sure that the dowels for the cover are showing on the outside. if the dowels are facing the block, youve got it backwards.
7-remove each bolt one by one and apply threadlock on each one. the factory specification from dodge calls for blue medium strength locker, but in a high performance application it is recommended by ACT to use a high strength, so i used the RED threadlock. once applied to the threads, install each bolt finger tight for now.
8-toque down flywheel bolts. Dodge service manual calls for 70 ft/lb, but again, ACT recommends a slightly higher TQ than this. I took mine up to 90 ft/lb. use a cross-star pattern when beginning to tq bolts down, just like a wheel. once all bolts are tight, go all the way around and double check TQ settings for even-ness. it will look like this when done:
9-install pilot bushing (included in kit) the factory clutch setup does not use a pilot bushing as the clutch assy. slides directly onto the input shaft. since we arent doing that, you will need this bushing to align the clutch disc properly. insert it into the crank end with the flanged end facing outward. tap it in with a mallot. no hard tools should be used to tap it in as they could damage it and make it uneven or difficult to use. it should look like this:
10-grease inner spline of clutch disc lightly. this is just to make it easier for the input shaft to slide in and not sieze up.