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HOW-TO: ACT Clutch / Flywheel

54K views 88 replies 38 participants last post by  Bclaw95 
#1 ·
well, i searched hi and lo on the forums and did not find any useflu information regarding the installation of the non-modular ACT clutch, sooooo i took pics as i went along for you guys and here is what you will need to know in order to complete the install yourself!

1-follow the directions for transmission removal found here: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216148

2-remove old clutch from bellhousing (it slides right off the input shaft, be careful not to drop it on your toes...its heavy)

3-remove throwout bearing from clutch lever (its slides up and then out)

4-remove factory installed flywheel (17mm socket and impact wrench are helpful)

5-open up all your new clutch goodies and clean them off. they are covered with a mild anti corrosion coating from the factory that will cause chatter and slippage if you dont clean it off. I used denatured alcohol solvent to clean my stuff. you can pick it up at darn near any hardware store in the paint removal supplies area. do not get the solvent on the pucks, as i dont know if it would deteriorate the epoxies used to hold them together. not worth the risk. just clean the solid surfaces, and ESPECIALLY the mating surfaces



6-determine the bolt pattern alignment for the flywheel. it wont look like it at first glance, but the bolt pattern is NOT symmetrical. some of the holes are further apart than others, and the flywheel will only bolt on ONE way. once you have determined the proper alignment of the holes, start the threads of each bolt (included in the kit) but do not tighten them at all yet. it should look like this:



make sure that the dowels for the cover are showing on the outside. if the dowels are facing the block, youve got it backwards.

7-remove each bolt one by one and apply threadlock on each one. the factory specification from dodge calls for blue medium strength locker, but in a high performance application it is recommended by ACT to use a high strength, so i used the RED threadlock. once applied to the threads, install each bolt finger tight for now.

8-toque down flywheel bolts. Dodge service manual calls for 70 ft/lb, but again, ACT recommends a slightly higher TQ than this. I took mine up to 90 ft/lb. use a cross-star pattern when beginning to tq bolts down, just like a wheel. once all bolts are tight, go all the way around and double check TQ settings for even-ness. it will look like this when done:



9-install pilot bushing (included in kit) the factory clutch setup does not use a pilot bushing as the clutch assy. slides directly onto the input shaft. since we arent doing that, you will need this bushing to align the clutch disc properly. insert it into the crank end with the flanged end facing outward. tap it in with a mallot. no hard tools should be used to tap it in as they could damage it and make it uneven or difficult to use. it should look like this:



10-grease inner spline of clutch disc lightly. this is just to make it easier for the input shaft to slide in and not sieze up.
 
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#2 ·
11- align clutch disc to flywheel by inserting alignment tool into disc and pegging it into the pilot bushing you just installed. the raised portion of the clutch disc should be facing AWAY from the block. it will look like this:





12-place cover over clutch disc. just like the flywheel, there is only ONE way this part can go on. there are dowels on the flywheel that the cover will line up on. once lined up, press it on and begin applying threadlock to the included bolts and repeat the cross-star pattern to tighten all bolts down. factory does not have a spec for this since it is a different design. the ACT instructions recommend high strength threadlock and 30 ft/lb TQ for these bolts. once all bolts are tight, go all the way around and double check TQ settings. it should look like this:



you can remove the alignment tool once the cover is on and tight.

reinstall transmission based on the previously mentioned link.

if the clutch does not feel right or the pedal travel is incorrect for your desired engagement point, you can adjust it under the dash board. there is a small screw with a bolt head on it that you can loosen. bring the pedal in or out and then tighten it and try it out. repeat this process until desires travel and engagement point is acheived.
 
#3 ·
Because I have a personal interest in this topic...it goes straight to stickage :hi:

Good write up...pictures are good.

You didn't happen to notice the weight difference of the new flywheel did you?
 
#5 ·
Also were there any hitches as far getting the input shaft to go back into the clutch assembly? When I did the clutch change on my Integra years ago I remember that being the hardest part...getting everything aligned as we put it back in.
 
#6 · (Edited)
There was, but it was our own damn fault. Somehow, the shift cables made their way between the bellhousing and the block...:stab:

We were there for about 15 mins just pushing the tranny towards the block and we were all saying:WTF: lol

Once we got them out of the way, it went right in. I did put a thin layer of grease on the input shaft though. Just a small amount cause you dont want too much. You will also notice that the lateral support brace bolts are long. Use these as guide pins for the top two bolt holes while you manipulate the tranny into position. But I must say, it's like wrestling an annaconda....:rofl:
 
#7 ·
westrock said:
You didn't happen to notice the weight difference of the new flywheel did you?
actully, the ACT flywheel felt to be about 4 times the weight of the stocker. i didnt weigh it on a scale, this is just an estimation, but its DAMN heavy. it doesnt make sense to me that they would call it a lightweight flywheel if it is so heavy, but then again you gotta remember that the clutch disc uses the flywheel as a contact surface in the non modular configurement, so it has to have some meat to it. the overall package of the flywheel, disc, and cover all together seem to be lighter than the factory setup tho, and since it all moves as one piece, that means youre still getting a weight savings.

thanks for the sticky. im sure down the road it will help someone. i was shocked to find that we didnt have an actual clutch install how-to in here after over 3 years...theres lots of posts with guys giving the basic steps, but not much else...

if anyone has any questions, ask me and i will add it to the first post.
 
#8 ·
yea mine was being a pain in the butt too at first, but it went in. i just used a floor jack and some wood cribbing to maneuver it, some ratcheting tie down straps from the stru tower bar to hold it from falling back down, and just some good ole' gumption to line it up. it wasnt too bad, and since i did the WHOLE install myself then i KNOW two guys can do it much easier.
 
#9 ·
okay question, I put the everything together and have been breaking in the new clutch for almost two weeks now. It has started to make a noise like a humming sound everytime I push the clutch pedal down. Im thinking that it is the bearing, is this a big problem? should it go away? or do I have to take it all apart again to get to that stupid ass bearing?
 
#10 ·
its humming when you push the pedal to the floor? thats odd...ive only ever heard any of my clutches when the pedal was released. i personally cant direct you what to do on this one, cus ive never experienced it. hopefully someone knowledgable can chime in for us.
 
#13 ·
KARKRAFT said:
this will be very helpful this weekend.
let us know how it goes. if you need help, PM me or some of the others who have chimed in with info.

the tranny i put in has an issue, so i will be pulling mine back out and putting in another one again, so i will be re-using my own how-to as a reminder for some of the steps...lol
 
#15 ·
Cool. Post up some pics! If you need help I'm sure lunchbox or myself can hopefully help you. My biggest piece of advice: Remove the slave cyliner from the transmission, rather than disconnecting the hydraulic line. This way, you dont have to wonder if air got in the line. It's probably just as easy, if not easier. Check out the FSM on how to remove it for details. Basically, you push in on the slave cylinder towards the bellhousing, pry up on that little white tab, then rotate 60 degrees counter clockwise. To see what you are trying to disengage, just pop off that little black inspection cover and you can see the retaining tabs.
 
#24 ·
damn lunchbox maybe you should write a few more how-to's because i think you are only a few away from disassembling the whole car lol

and do you have to remove the tranny or would it be possible to move enough to have clearence to install the new clutch without totally removing it?? i am lazy so i thought i would ask
 
#28 ·
lol, yea, ive done damn near every kind of basic install/repair/maintenance there is to be had on the SRT4, be it my own car or any of my buddies or other peeps from the forums who came to my pad for some help. i dont have my car anymore unfortunately, but by the time i got rid of it the only thing i HADNT done was rebuild a block or a head...everything else i have had completely apart at one point in time... and it all has gone back together perfectly and never had any functionality problems unless there was MFR defects :)

BTW, even though i dont have an SRT anymore, my services are still and always will be offered to anyone willing to travel or willing to pay me to travel :) i work for cheep cheep :)
 
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