A Big Wheel Stocker from AGP? No way! - Page 2 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #16 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben@AGP View Post
You want reliable every day for years, buy a big turbo kit.
That's my plan if I don't sell the car this fall. Going to build a manifold over the winter and run either a 3076r or BWs256.
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post #17 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 11:27 AM
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Not a bad price, I have been running 23psi for years on stock ported turbo. I now spike 30psi on E85 and stock turbo, so you could run more than 18psi. With the right fuel, setup and tune. All depends on how well these are balanced. But even at 18psi it should out do the stocker.

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post #18 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 06:59 PM
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I placed an order for one. Can't wait! What's the break in period for a brand new turbo like this?

05 white acr: cold side pipe, aem intake, 3 bar map and tip, thermal exhaust, cox oil modifier, powder coated valve cover, intake manifold, intake, cold pipe, and rims lollipop red from lost color coating.
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post #19 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 07:30 PM
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You don't "break in" a turbo. Install it check for leaks then tune it. I would drive it around a little just cause but there is no need to break it in.
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post #20 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 08:05 PM
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You don't "break in" a turbo. Install it check for leaks then tune it. I would drive it around a little just cause but there is no need to break it in.
Good to know, I was researching this turbo and came across" moles" . He was saying there is a break in period.
50 miles-0 psi
50 miles- 15psi
The rest I forgot, seemed like they're was

05 white acr: cold side pipe, aem intake, 3 bar map and tip, thermal exhaust, cox oil modifier, powder coated valve cover, intake manifold, intake, cold pipe, and rims lollipop red from lost color coating.
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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 08:10 PM
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Did you not read what's under his forum name?
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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 09:59 PM
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I never broke in my turbo and never had a problem.
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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 03:09 PM
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There is always a break in period for new parts, same goes for motor,head/ cams, turbo. Those that don't could have serious problems later. Seen people break in motors on the dyno, car doesn't go to far before blowing up. If you only 1/4 that might work for you.

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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Racerxvsspeedracer View Post
There is always a break in period for new parts, same goes for motor,head/ cams, turbo. Those that don't could have serious problems later. Seen people break in motors on the dyno, car doesn't go to far before blowing up. If you only 1/4 that might work for you.
Break in on engine is different. Please explain what needs to be broken in on a turbo because I am unaware.

I'm not saying slap on the turbo cold start and floor it. Just saying there is no need to baby a turbo for 100 miles. You should prime the turbo with oil before you start the car. Disable fuel and ignition then crank the motor over I pull the return line and have it dump into a bucket to make sure it gets oil.

Hook it all back up start the car warm it up check for leaks then you should be good to go.

Last edited by basspro302; 05-30-2014 at 04:22 PM.
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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 05:14 PM
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I could go on and on, but want to keep it short.
All new parts need break in, bedding for all rotating parts..Heat cycling. In the end It's your choice..

17x8 245/40/17 ST40 BBK Project TRAIN DONE!11/13/09
04 -E-85 Ported Stock Turbo,Stock cams&Head,Stock Motor,Safc Neo
329.69Hp, 395.77Tq STD 297Hp@6K 320.87Hp, 385.18Tq SAE
Tube V-band,6266,9:1 Cr,E85,Fully Built,Dog Box,Soon!
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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 06:31 PM
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I could go on and on, but want to keep it short.
All new parts need break in, bedding for all rotating parts..Heat cycling. In the end It's your choice..
I'm not bashing you. Obviously certain parts need a break in like engines and clutches. Turbos don't require a "break in" if there was any part on a turbo that broke in especially at the high shaft speeds they see the end result would be excessive play.

I've never seen a turbo fail from improper "break in" usually people start the car without priming the turbo first or oil starvation.
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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 05:00 PM
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I doubt any new SRT4 was "broke-in" after it was purchased, lol. They went full tilt right out of the dealership parking lot.
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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 11:26 AM
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^I broke mine in brand new with 8miles on the clock, still on stock top and bottom engine. And over 100k miles now!

17x8 245/40/17 ST40 BBK Project TRAIN DONE!11/13/09
04 -E-85 Ported Stock Turbo,Stock cams&Head,Stock Motor,Safc Neo
329.69Hp, 395.77Tq STD 297Hp@6K 320.87Hp, 385.18Tq SAE
Tube V-band,6266,9:1 Cr,E85,Fully Built,Dog Box,Soon!
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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben View Post
I doubt any new SRT4 was "broke-in" after it was purchased, lol. They went full tilt right out of the dealership parking lot.

Thus the limited warranty. I broke in my rebuilt stocker along with the priming process just for shits & giggles. I do know a few original owners that did break their cars in off the lot. I believe they lasted as long as the ones not broke in? I believe it boils down to upkeep & how much or not so much beat on


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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 09:51 AM
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I received my bws a few days ago. Very nice, clean little guy. Just waiting on a ported manifold to show up. I thought these came with oil drain gasket?

05 white acr: cold side pipe, aem intake, 3 bar map and tip, thermal exhaust, cox oil modifier, powder coated valve cover, intake manifold, intake, cold pipe, and rims lollipop red from lost color coating.
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