(Image used by permission from www.srtgurl.com
1. Remove the five 10mm bolts holding on the top portion of the heat shield. (You might want to use WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster to help in the removal process of the bolts.)
2. Remove factory actuator by pulling the pin out of the flapper arm and taking out the two 12mm bolts holding the body to the compressor housing.
3. Line the new bracket assembly up to the compressor housing and tighten down the two 12mm mounting bolts. Hand tight will work just fine.
4. Loosen the jamb nut on the arm so you can adjust the length of the rod end to match up to the flapper arm on the manifold. Pull the flapper arm towards the driver’s side of the vehicle so the flapper door is closed.
5. Slip the rod end over the flapper arm and reinstall the pin to hold in place. At this point you want to make certain there is a little tension on the wastegate actuator. Turn the adjustment nut towards the firewall of the vehicle about one full turn.
6. You may need to bend the corner of your heat shield to clear the new actuator, and reinstall.
Running the Vacuum Lines
1. Remove both of the associated vacuum lines from the number 2 solonoid that is located on top of the stock airbox. One line comes from the turbo (green line), the other line goes to the stock WGA (black line). These lines will not be used anymore. You do NOT need to cap these lines at the solenoid.
2. Attach vacuum line with bleed fitting to the turbo (where you removed the green line), and run that directly to the top of the new WGA. You may want to secure both sides of the vacuum fittings with zip ties to prevent them from blowing off. If you are using a boost controller, you will NOT use the supplied bleed fitting.
3. At this point if you are not running the Mopar Stage 1 or Stage 2 PCM, you’ll want to remove the red vacuum line going to the TIP sensor solenoid (red line). Cap the nipple on your upper IC hose with a vacuum cap. This will eliminate the Part Throttle Overboost Check Engine Light that is common on Stage 0 vehicles when upgrading the actuator and/or boost controller. If you have a 2005 vehicle, you may need to order stage 1 to completely eliminate check engine lights.
Adjusting the Actuator
In order to achieve the best performance out of this modification, you will need to “preload” the tension on the actuator. This is accomplished by loosening the jamb nut from the rod end and turning the adjustment nut towards the firewall. Every car is different, so there is no set number of turns to get the correct tension. Start out with your boost controller completely open (lowest boost possible) and adjust the tension on the wastegate actuator so that the car will produce approximately 15 psi of boost. Once you have achieved 15 psi without a boost controller, tighten the jamb nut against the rod end and start turning the boost up with the boost controller until you have reached the desired boost. If you are not using a boost controller, tighten the wastegate to achieve desired boost. This process may take a while to dial in perfectly, but it’s definitely worth it. Keep in mind that you might not want to take the car beyond 16 psi at redline because you are reaching the limit of the stock fuel system.
This is how you would run the line from the turbo to the actuator if you were using a boost controller. Turbo XS HPBC shown.
This is how you would run the line from the turbo to the actuator if you were just using the supplied bleed.
This is a picture of the supplied bleed.