After installing my stage 1 PCM and stage 2 WGA i finally tested the car on Autobahn this weekend and i noticed something that makes me afraid to break the engine:
On the autobahn, pedal to the metal, 3rd gear 19 PSI and then: 4th gear the needle on 6'o clock (maybe 30 PSI?) and in 5th the needle turned till 7'o clock and the engine sputtered.
First time this happened (friday) i noticed that the red line popped of.
I fixed it with zip tie (and burned my arm on the grmpfbrzzzzl cooler!).
Yesterday happened the same - so i better drove carefully, only half gas and had everytime an eye on boost gauge.
But I had no time to control the red line again.
It feeled like i had 300+ HP, very nice - but i was more afraid to break something.
(Boost came soooo fast - needle flipped over 20 and i directly took my foot from gas and shiftet!)
Is the red line responsible for that? Does it control the boost that i don't overboost?
Or could that be something else? Maybe the WGA?
(Used the board search - but i found so much and not really something helpfull.)
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stg1 pcm; agp wga @15; forge bov; 3"o2; k&n airbox; agp dogbone; 215/35/18 interaction scorpions; kw coilovers; led tails; mpx projectors; sxt spoiler; 9" dvd system; leather seats & doorboards...
install soon: more psi, 30/30 gauge; more blue LEDs gimmicks...
Any time lines start popping off you are going to have goofy readings because of leaks. Could be that you are just at normal boost levels but the gauge is reading wrong because the line is off. Zipties are your friend.... And get yourself a 30/30 boost gauge if you don't already have one.
No error codes.
Will zip tie them again and then i think i will look if i can find another boost gauge. Somewhere here was still one for sale...
And the sputtering? Not enough fuel in 5th?
You should try to buy an adjustable wastegate also. So that way if the leak check doesn't work you can always control the boost level. I just so happen to have an AGP for sale. AGP products are little harder for germans to get a hold of so this might be a good chance to get your hands on this WGA. If you want both the wastegate and the guage I can give you a pretty good price.
With the new wastegate you won't be on PCM controlled boost. You'll be able to clean up your engine bay a little and you'll hold boost stronger until redline.
Hey Carsten, Be VERY careful when useing that Stg2 WGA!! I had the same set up when I first bought my car. Stg1 PCM and Stg2 WGA. I was holding around 18-19 PSI to redline and didnt know any better. BUT when i put on the Mopar BOV plate my boost levels went off the chart Exactly what your talking about now, this is what i found...
The power cutting or sputtering your talking about at the top of the gear IS fuel cut, your not getting enough fuel to match the boost.. ie VERY VERY LEAN and BAD!!
The stg2 WGA IS adjustable so you can work on it there
Make sure you give the PCM at least 20-30 miles to "learn" the new settings when you change the WGA when your still useing PCM boost control. Do this by only boosting up to the PSI you would like to see and then LET OFF. Dont go over what your wanting until at least 20 or 30 miles. Only then try to go WOT and see what it does...
If you go more than 25 PSI LET OFF dont push it even tho it feels cool being so fast. This is how I blew my front main seal (and its a pain in the ass to replace...) Also after doing that, When me and Jason took my old turbo off I noticed some MAJOR cracks in my Exhaust Mani from over boost.... YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR CAR IF YOU OVERBOOST!!!
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"BFMIC is like a pair of titties in a bra"
Last edited by shiby3041 : 05-25-2009 at 05:00 AM.
Yes, that's what i also thought. I have the stage 1 > 5 weeks - but never used in WOT.
I really don't wanna break something!
So the AGP is not PCM controlled?
Dammit i am sooo newbie with turbos - need to have a few beers with you guys in Kelbra and to talk with you.
(Like you learned your lessons the last year(s) from Jason... )
I cannot read here 10000 posts. Most of them are 90% offtopic and i understand not everything. Too much opinions, too much rant...
At the moment i don't wanna have high performance - but what i have should work fine.
And - i wanna have fun. Not like yesterday - everytime next to a heartattac and carefully listening if the engine sounds strange while stepping on gas...
We are running the stg 2 WGA from the time we got it. and a stg1 PCM too.
Spike 20+
hold at 18PSI
but under 3000rpm just dont push it. It'll flutter and all.. overboost and all
as soon as we go over 3000rpm WOT holds perfect and we're off!
Mopar BOV plate on there too!
we have the 30-30 boostgauge installed just 2 weeks ago, and aperantly our stock boostgauge is about 5-7 PSI off With the engine turned off it said -7PSI :jester
manual WGA laying around, we just didn't have the time to put it in there..
we tried a tail WGA but boost got all around. 30+ I guess. so that was a no go for us
That could be the reason:
I was in 3rd floored it, shifting, floored again, 5th floored again.
Could be that i was under 3000 after shifting - and so the boost spiked uncontrolled.
Hmmm, thats how i learned to have a good 0-100 time: directly pedal to the metal in every gear...
A whole bunch of WGA out there produce what is known as over boost... personally I like the Forward Motion waste gate,it's adjustable, precise,and best of all boost comes on linear rather than a kick in the ass... it's the closest WGA to a stock "feel" and it holds boost perfectly.
With stage 1 PCM,why not let the PCM control your boost?
Also, when you disconnect your battery, your PCM goes into "relearn mode"... go easy on hitting the motor hard for the FIRST 30/40 miles till it relearns. Hitting 18/19 and coming down to 15 @ redline is pretty normal for these cars.
U can relearn the PCM by just resetting the computer Carsten
Just get the positive wire off the batery for 10 minutes and its done.
It loses all parameters and settings that way you can relearn the pcm.....
And if you want to have better gas mileage, be verry gentle on the gas, don't boost to much and just go easy on it for 50 miles.
Oh and if you want to reset it faster you cal also unhook the -&+ on the battery and hold the wires together, that works instantly!
Yup, now I understand. The flutter you are getting is PTB - Partial Throttle Boost. Its when the boost are higher than they should be for the amount of throttle/speed you are giving/going. The car flutters and stumbles because it doesn't know whats going on for a second until you hit a certain range and the sensor voltages all equal out to what they should be reading.
Example..... Your new wastegate is stronger than the one designed for your PCM. So when you give partial throttle the PCM wants to see XXpsi at 1/4 throttle. When you give it 1/4 throttle the PCM sees ZZpsi and tries to compensate but doesn't know how. You end up running funky fuel trims for a brief second and then as the throttle opens and the boost rises and the RPMS rise, the PCM figures it out and off you go.
Like Pat said..... you don't have the fuel to run high boost yet. Stay to 20psi and under.
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Overboost? Don't wanna kill the engine!
so no guarantee on that one! 
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