I picked up the base Wilwood kit for pretty cheap, so I thought I would try it out. Had it on for the first time the past two days at Watkins Glen, and while it worked well, felt better than stock, I was killing pads. Was using Hawk HT10's and I know they're only .480 thick but went through 2.5 sets in 2 days. Anyone recommend a different pad to try? I'm thinking PFC's maybe. I'm pretty sure there's just not enough pad that can fit in that caliper for the speeds I see at The Glen, but probably have to go the rest of the season with these ones. For reference I was going through one set of pads on stock brakes in 2.5 days.
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04 Black SRT-4: Stage 2, Stage 3 coilovers and more
I picked up the base Wilwood kit for pretty cheap, so I thought I would try it out. Had it on for the first time the past two days at Watkins Glen, and while it worked well, felt better than stock, I was killing pads. Was using Hawk HT10's and I know they're only .480 thick but went through 2.5 sets in 2 days. Anyone recommend a different pad to try? I'm thinking PFC's maybe. I'm pretty sure there's just not enough pad that can fit in that caliper for the speeds I see at The Glen, but probably have to go the rest of the season with these ones. For reference I was going through one set of pads on stock brakes in 2.5 days.
Is the kit new or used? If used, you may need to rebuild them. I had the same issue with the Wilwoods where I was going through pads very quickly and noticed I needed to also bleed them more often.
Found out that for multiple reasons, the pistons were not retracting enough and the pads were basically in contact with the rotors (although not fully engaged) all the time.
Ended up getting a new kit and the issue went away. Was also told that a proper rebuild would have done the same thing.
Even after the new kit, I found that if I ran all sessions of a 2 day event on a course that worked the brakes, I was using 2 sets. The first set would have been close making it through both days but didn't want to take the chance so I would change them between the 2 days. Luckily the pads are pretty cheap. I have used Hawk Blue, PFC 93 compound and Hawk DTC-70's and found the wear to be similar with all of them.
BTW - Went to a different BBK so if you are looking for pads, I have 2 new sets of the DTC-70's for a good price...just PM me (shameless plug, I know)
Is the kit new or used? If used, you may need to rebuild them. I had the same issue with the Wilwoods where I was going through pads very quickly and noticed I needed to also bleed them more often.
Kit was brand new. Sending you a PM about the pads. I'm hoping this setup will get me through the year, then would like to upgrade to the TCE track package in the future. Also, I noticed the inside driver's side pad was worn the most on one set, other set was pretty even, and haven't checked the third yet. I only have 2 or 4 more days at The Glen this year, then possibly, but unlikely I'll do any once I move to SoCal for a while. At least until I'm settled in with school etc.
performance friction has a great selection of pad for them
but I ran that set up on my SRT4 and didnt like them at all too much brake fad and poor pad life
we had to bleed them alot
Honesty I think the stock set up is better with good pads
Sorry just my .02 others may feel differently
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2005 SRT4 ST Touring Car
2009 Mobile 1 Sprints GT3
Sponsored by Fast Trac / ftrac.org
It has taken me a long time to figure out the proper brakes for my car as well. I have been through two different Wilwood BBK and numerous (although all Wilwood) pad compounds. I also experimented with brake ducting and finally have something I like.
Also huge was the switch to Castrol SRF fluid. It is $80/qt, but I NEVER have to bleed the system unless I have to open it up for some reason. I just finished my second bottle since I started using it in May of 2007. I put new pistons and seals in my calipers last week and everything is like new again! Love it!
My set-up:
TCE Track Pkg. 13x1.1 FSL calipers
Wilwood C Compound pads in Front and Hawk HP+ ("One Lap" pads) on the stock rear calipers.
Custom Windspeed Motorsports brake ducting
Castrol SRF fluid
Make sure to rotate your pads and you will get longer life as the leading edges always wear faster and too much taper on the pad make it work against the pistons bore to push out the pistons against the pad.
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It has taken me a long time to figure out the proper brakes for my car as well. I have been through two different Wilwood BBK and numerous (although all Wilwood) pad compounds. I also experimented with brake ducting and finally have something I like.
Also huge was the switch to Castrol SRF fluid. It is $80/qt, but I NEVER have to bleed the system unless I have to open it up for some reason. I just finished my second bottle since I started using it in May of 2007. I put new pistons and seals in my calipers last week and everything is like new again! Love it!
My set-up:
TCE Track Pkg. 13x1.1 FSL calipers
Wilwood C Compound pads in Front and Hawk HP+ ("One Lap" pads) on the stock rear calipers.
Custom Windspeed Motorsports brake ducting
Castrol SRF fluid
Make sure to rotate your pads and you will get longer life as the leading edges always wear faster and too much taper on the pad make it work against the pistons bore to push out the pistons against the pad.
Great advise on rotating pads to avoid pad taper and I have also found that rotating the pads helps to reduce rotor grooving.
How would the Wilwood c compounds compare with an hp+?
Great advise on rotating pads to avoid pad taper and I have also found that rotating the pads helps to reduce rotor grooving.
How would the Wilwood c compounds compare with an hp+?
The C is track only compound. If you run them on the highway it wil take the slots off your rotors in less than 1,000 miles (ask me how I know...).
The HP+ is a medium torque street/track pad. I use them on the rear so I don't have to change them too often. I can change the front pads in less than 10 minutes from start to finish (did it in 6 minutes once on hot brakes)so I swap those all the time from street to track pads.
How much warm up is required with a more aggressive track only pad. How much is the braking changed by running a race pad at the track? This is my first season with real brakes and I would really like to get the most out of them. I have quick change calipers, so I am fine with running a track only pad. Would hawk blues be a good place to start with stoptech st-40's up front and oem's with hp+ out back? I'm sorry for all the questions, but you are probably the 1lap to ask.
I run DTC70s, which are a little more aggressive and a newer compound than the Blues, in my ST40s...outback I run the HP+ and like one lap leave them in all the time and just swap the fronts. It is a good setup and provides a good braking distribution. The improvement in braking of a track pad over a street pad once up to temp is amazing...and they don't fade. Definitely worth swapping pads...street pads will fade after a few laps due to the heat.
Thanks. What is the best way or how long does it take to warm up the pads?
Can 2 different pad compounds be bedded on a rotor at the same time or is there rotor prep required aswell at every change? I may have worded that wrong but you should get the jist.
Good advice on all accounts. I dont want to sound like a downer but, the wilwood basic kit gets beat to death when you are on a long fast track like the glen, or any other track where you have to heavy brake from triple digit speeds.
If you are going to keep this kit untill the end of the season, try to get more air to them first. since you are running a small in thickness rotor (.810) you are going to over heat them pretty fast.
since use a caliper that uses the same size as the dyna lites, I use a new J pad from wilwood. Like one lap, I went trhough a lot of different pad combos until i found my a set that I am happy with. Wilwood fronts, and EBC reds in the rear, on stock rear set-up for now. One trick that I did on my front is, put a small spring in between the pads on the calipers. This will prevent your pads from comming in any contact when the brakes.
and when you bleed your brakes, try to find someone with an OBDII scan tool, that can bleed brakes. I thought my brakes were working good untill I started doing this, and DAMM what a difference
On a future note, when you do decide to upgrade, go with the thickest rotor you can put on your car with your combo. Generally with these cars it is, 1.1". Since I am using my control arms, I am using a 1.250" rotor, and it is only 12.2" in diam.
good luck.
Thanks for all of the info. I'm going to try DTC-70's up front next time, and stick with HP plus in the back, which have worked well for me. I knew the base kit wasn't going to be the best, but it was pretty cheap(got it new from a forum member) and I'll hopefully be switching the the TCE track package next year.
rallysrt: Depends on the pad, but doesn't take long to warm them up. After about 3 stops from speed you're good to go. I have used 2 different pads on the same rotor, 3 actually, HP plus for the street, Blue, and Carbotech XP10 for the track, and didn't have a problem. No pusling, or shaking while braking. Oh, and the blues dust like crazy and will ruin your wheels if you don't clean it off immediately, or if it rains. Carbotech XP10's have been my favorite so far on the stock brakes.
this is my set up 12.2" by 1.25 front rotors with performance friction 93 compound front
and we use the 12.2" .081" set up with hawk hp+ in the rear
with Castrol SRF fluid or if Im stuck Ill run Motul fluid
I also run floor mounted dual brake masters as my seat is 8" back and 2" toward the middle
and when you bleed your brakes, try to find someone with an OBDII scan tool, that can bleed brakes. I thought my brakes were working good untill I started doing this, and DAMM what a difference
On a future note, when you do decide to upgrade, go with the thickest rotor you can put on your car with your combo. Generally with these cars it is, 1.1". Since I am using my control arms, I am using a 1.250" rotor, and it is only 12.2" in diam.
good luck.
I do have access to an OBDII scan tool. What is the reason for plugging in the scan tool? I'm learning a lot, keep the answers coming. This may save me a signifigant amount of trial and error and error. This info is greatly appreciated.
I do have access to an OBDII scan tool. What is the reason for plugging in the scan tool? I'm learning a lot, keep the answers coming. This may save me a signifigant amount of trial and error and error. This info is greatly appreciated.
I mention this because, if you still have the stock ABS sytem in the car, there is no way to get all the air out of you brake system. This is why you plug in the obdII, and purge-bleed the brake system this way.
I thought I had bled my brakes good until I broke down and bought an obdII.
When I went ahead and bled my brakes the first time with this, I was surprised to hear how much air came out of the MC.
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