Have to chime in here, our SRT-4 Bumper Brace for large FMICs weights in at only 6 lbs while the stock bumper beam is 19lbs, that is a savings of 13lbs with little sacrifice in structural rigidity.
Where is the data to support the statement about structural rigidity? If you mean that it will help keep the fascia from sagging during use on a hot day, you are probably right.
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Where is the data to support the statement about structural rigidity? If you mean that it will help keep the fascia from sagging during use on a hot day, you are probably right.
Dale,
Should I take what you are implying to mean that for the average daily driver that goes to the drag strip ever other weekend during season and maybe a few time trails you should not risk ruining the structural rigidity.
more serious drivers/racers and heavily sponsored cars have all that structural rigidity replaced and can go without the stock front bumper beam
because they make up for it....what are the long term effects taking that front beam off for us average joes....
sorry to highjack the thread......it still relates to weight reduction- but it is a strech...
Long term durability is the big risk. The bumper beam ties the front rails to each other. Without it, they will flex more, which puts unnecessary stress in the rails and all of the associated welds, which could lead to early cracking of the metal or the welds. Not to mention the whole risk to front end crash resistance...
I wouldn't risk it overall, I like to know that my car is stiff and not gonna flex or give some where from something I removed, even if I have other items in place else where. Get an aftermarket bar for the front is all I can say, they only weigh like 10lbs and are fairly cheap, and deffinitely sturdier than the factory beam. I would stick to lightening the interior items, seat, rims, brakes/wheels, battery and all that stuff first, then if not enough look into some very extensive stuff like the rear glass pieces, etc. But I will not do anything that could weaken the main structure of the car knowingly, heck if anything I am making it heavier but alot more stiff, that way it can be driven that much faster through reponse and control. Or at least I hope.
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"The Cobalt firmly grabs you and whisks you along your way instantly. It does so with authority and poise, but while slipping relatively unnoticed through traffic, never being violent, or dare I say it, frightening. When you ask the SRT-4 to take you somewhere fast, it punches you in the face, throws you over its shoulder, and runs, screaming, so quickly that its tires can barely keep up."
Get an aftermarket bar for the front is all I can say, they only weigh like 10lbs and are fairly cheap, and deffinitely sturdier than the factory beam.
Please supply any data, real or imagined, that supports that statement with respect to 'sturdiness'. Unless there is a new product on the market, the Factory Beam is by far the best unit.
Please supply any data, real or imagined, that supports that statement with respect to 'sturdiness'. Unless there is a new product on the market, the Factory Beam is by far the best unit.
Well i have the SloBoy one , I was merely going by what I felt in my hand. I rather have a 1/8" twin tube steel bar than rolled aluminum in front of me, maybe factory is sturdier, but the aftermarket ones are better than nothin.
Starting to learn I need to keep even constructive criticism to myself, seems all I do is piss off all the "pros".
Well i have the SloBoy one , I was merely going by what I felt in my hand. I rather have a 1/8" twin tube steel bar than rolled aluminum in front of me, maybe factory is sturdier, but the aftermarket ones are better than nothin.
Starting to learn I need to keep even constructive criticism to myself, seems all I do is piss off all the "pros".
There's just a lot of mis information out there man... Speaking of which post one is way off on one of it's weight listings...Rear deck cover is not 10lbs, it's like 2-3lbs..
Anyway, you're right that an A/M is better then nothing...If you want a FMIC, you cannot use your stock bar...It's just that all the prefab cost well over $100...You could go to any welding shop and have them make you something for $50 TOPS...I doubt there's any accurate data out there about how well A/M crashbars do in a crash, but I'll give a semi-educated guess and say A/M bars are only 20% as strong as stock...
There's a difference between constructive criticism and guessing
The rear decklid removal numbers are going to be all over the board depending on how serious the conversion is. I was able to drop 68 pounds of metal and plastic from the trunk of the Onelap car. It required a drill and a nibbler though.... The hinges weigh a lot, the power lock and latch system isn't light, and the wing is a few pounds as well.
Hey, if your springs are stiff enough, would you need to keep the sways in the car? Is it legal to remove one (or both)?
It's common practice for people to remove sway bars in AutoX...Is it legal? I doubt there's a law that states it's illegal to remove a sway bar...But there's probably a law that says you cannot tamper with any cars safety equipment...You'd never get a ticket for it, but if you flip your car on it's roof, if they notice you removed your sway bar they may not give you an insurance payout...
I always thought Lexan was not legal, but I cannot find federal regulations about windshield material. It seems they're only concerned with windshield intrusion into the passenger compartment. I guess Lexan could be legal after all if it meets crash safety requirements like thickness and glazing material performance.
i know this isn't srt-4 weight reduction info but an FYI wouldn't hurt. i took weight of the 4 easy to remove items before i hit the track with my 04 PT Cruiser GT
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